Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore elite HE3t
Unplug your machine, remove the top panel, doublecheck all of the wires are securely connected. Sometimes the wires are loosened due to the vibration of the washer. Hope this works for you! It worked for our Kenmore Elite H3 when no cycles would start and flashed the error code "dL/F" (door lock failure).
Posted on Jan 02, 2008
it will not let you unlock the door because the machines full of water?--the machine will not finish its cycle because the vacume switch is still detecting water , The water will not drain because the pump is blocked with something , probably a wire from your underwire bra,all you can do is undo a pipe undernieth and let the water drain away and take the pump to bits ?There may be an inspection cap somewhere on the front at the bottom
Posted on May 23, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore HE3t
There is a black plastic piece that sticks out from the machine. It is located at about
2 o'clock. You probably broke off the piece as I did with mine. If you have a wooden skewer (or something like it), stick it in and depress the button. You can glue the skewer in place.
That should fix your problem.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
Testimonial: "the post on August 17th fixed my machine. It was the button on the door that was broken off."
Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
This is a very simple and inexpensive repair that you can do without the assistance of a repairman. The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. The part number for a replacement for your washer is 3949238.
NOTE: You DO NOT need to drain the washer to replace the lid switch. Once a defective switch is replaced, the washer will drain.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this information is helpful.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
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