Question about Pds GE Profile Bottom-Freezer Drawer Refrigerator Energy Star 22.2 Cu. Ft. - PDS22MFS

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GE profile fridge

I've had a problem with my GE profile fridge (bottom drawer freezer), purchased in 2006.

My GE Profile refrigerator is running non-stop, is not keeping food cool in the refrigerator section, and continues to be very cold in the freezer (ranging from -18 to -1 fahrenheit)
I called ****** and arranged for a technician to diagnose the problem. The first visit occurred on November 4, 2008. The technician could not diagnose problem, and then called the GE tech line. He then told me that the problem was caused by one of 3 things: main board, defrost heater, or a thermostat. The repair tech did not have the correct parts available, and said that they would have to be ordered, and a call to GE tech line again to confirm parts needed and he would call me back. I paid $70.00 for this visit.
A different technician arrived at my home on November 6th, and told me that it was not a defrost heater or a thermostat problem, but rather that a new main board would be needed, and possibly a new damper. The main board was installed and the damper was forced half way open to keep the refrigerator cool while the technician called the GE service line to confirm this problem. The technician stated that he would call me back in a few days, and I paid $230 for a new main board. The forced damper kept the refrigerator fairly cool for about 1 week or so, but then the refrigerator became warm again and stopped reading the temperature accurately.
I never received a call back from a technician, so I called ****** on Monday, November 24th, and arranged to have a technician come to the house again to see why the refrigerator was again 55 degrees, but yet reading at 34 degrees.
A technician arrived on Friday, November 28th and replaced the main board again, and also replaced a damper sensor and stated that this should fix the problem. At the time that the technician was here, the vent was indeed blowing cool air into the refrigerator and the temperature appeared to be accurate. I left the house and ran errands for about 4 hours, and returned home to a warm refrigerator that read “37” for the temperature. The refrigerator was running and there was no cold air blowing in the vents. So, this did not fix the problem.
I then called ****** again, and discussed the problem, and the owner of ****** then comes over, and appeared to not really be concerned that I’ve had technicians here three different times over the past month, that I’ve paid $300 in repairs and still do not have a working refrigerator, and that I’ve had to keep my food and drinks in coolers for the past MONTH.
The refrigerator has continued to run all weekend, non-stop. The temperature reading remains at “37” and the refrigerator is warm. The freezer is working, and keeping the food frozen. I am starting to wonder how much this is costing me in increased electricity to keep the refrigerator running non-stop. I would prefer to unplug the refrigerator if it isn’t working, but I was told that I needed to keep it running to diagnose the problem.
I am about at my wits end, and am about to push the damn thing into the street and go buy a new one.

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: removing freezer drawer

my son fixed it - thx. problem solved

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile 25.1 cu. ft. fridge is too large for door entrance

yes you can, or just removed the bottom drawer, open the upper doors and slide the refrigeraro thru the doorway by just swinging it thru. a mover friend of mine showed me that trick at it work great.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

Chadha Saab
  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: Clicking of Ge Model PDS22SBRBRSS; serial No; DL047209

IF the below mentioned information does not help, then contact a elextrical engineer worksman who can check the circuit board as it might also cause a short cicuit.

The inside of the freezer Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:

  • If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.

  • If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.

  • If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.

Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.

To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.

The outside back of the refrigerator There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).

  • The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.

  • If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.

  • The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.

The bottom of the refrigerator Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Amana AFF2534FES freezer has frost on back wall,

There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator2_bing.gif not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem


Posted on May 27, 2010

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: 16 month old GE Profile

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer2_bing.gif and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator2_bing.gif Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator2_bing.gif Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting2_bing.gif Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


Posted on Aug 12, 2010

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