My ageing Vulcan Quasar 40 gas wall heater stopped working yesterday - the pilot light went out. When I try relighting it, it goes out as soon as I release the button.
I have tried turning power off at the mains, waiting 15 mins and starting the process again, but the pilot still won't stay lit.
I have a wall mounted Dayton gas furnace model 3E475B. The unit has worked well for 18-years. The pilot has been frequently going out but would relight fine. The pilot will light normally but when I release the button it goes out. I replaced the thermocouple but the pilot still will not stay lit when I release the button, even when I hold it in for 2 minnutes before releasing it.
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if the stove or fireplace doesn't have electronic ignition then yes its looking for a pilot lite I used to have a old water heater that did this , turns out the problem was defective gas regulator making the pressures go up/down also was leaking outside that's what made it noticable
Apr 15, 2013 - Uploaded by TipsNNTricks
How To Relight Your Pilot Light On Your Water Heater. TipsNNTricks .... I answer the following questions in this video. How can I relight my pilot ...
Burners don't have anything to do with the problem of pilot not lighting. Is the problem that flame will not 'stay' lit? Or you can't even get a flame to ignite?
If former: possible bad pilot generator or bad gas valve. If latter, possible bad gas valve or no fuel to ignite.
You may need a new thermocouple if you have been able to light it before.It is located above the pilot lite and needs to get hot to keep the gas flowing.You can pick up a universal thermocouple a the local hard ware store.Shut the gas off,unscrew the coupling nut and remove the old one.Bend the the new one like the old one and replace.Try not to kink the new one.Good luck and thanks for choosing FixYa.com.
Simply clean out the jet tube with a fine wire, the sound you hear is the gas blowing by the irregular edges, and swirling and not mixing and producing sound waves, (Bit like a flute) So, you need to clean the tube right out, and smooth off the end again, & sorta "Countersink", Flame the end too, at the end.use a very fine needle file, and make it look like new, that will sort your problem out. Then adjust so you have a good gas flow. Also check out it isn't blocked too.
Find the gas valve and turn it to pilot. (Or light) Use a long reach lighter. Light the lighter and press the knob in. Light the pilot and continue to hold the knob in for about 15 seconds. When you release it, the pilot should stay lit. If it doesn't, you need a new thermocouple. That's the small tube that the flame touches when the pilot's lit. They're inexpensive and usually not too hard to replace.
Look for dust and lint. Look for them in places where gas should be freely flowing. I had a similar problem with an Empire Corcho wall-mounted propane ceramic catalyst heater. First it was the pilot light, then the #2 ceramic mantle. After horsing around with the gas lines and pressure regulators and trying to re-aim the pilot, it all turned out to be dust and lint in the gas passages. A little dust bunny in the brass pilot tube gave me a pilot light the shape and color of a banana. One puff of compressed air, and I got back my razor-sharp pilot. And some dust in the chimney of the #2 burner kept it burning blue/yellow and blistering paint off the upper surfaces of the heater. A bit of cleaning with a shop-vac put that right. "Passive" heaters are very much prone to this sort of problem because they rely on convection currents (i.e. LOW velocity) to get the job done. Convection currents are notorious dust collectors, as in COBWEB CITY.