Top Drawer light is out-display eratic powers on and off at will.
Model DD603 -The bottom drawer works fine, but is now subject to Flooding codes in relation to top dishdrawer. Two years ago I spent a fortune to fix flooding- seals motors- drawer tops and finally the repair man wouldn't answer my calls! I put vegetable oil on the seals and have limped along until the top display light was out and flaky-- now I get the beeping and error codes on the top and sometimes the bottom. Turning off the power and drying it out for a day sometimes helps. Love the dishwasher and just want it to work!
Am dismayed looking at new models.
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Re: Top Drawer light is out-display eratic powers on and...
Below is the service manual link and a web site that I found. refer to the lower section where a person writes in that the fixed the flooding with a hairdryer. I hope this helps, they seem like fantastic dishwashers.
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If this is a double drawer dishwasher and bottom drawing is functional but top drawer won't open means the controller on top drawer is faulty or power circuit is locked. If turning the mains power off and back on makes no difference then controller could be the problem. One way to test is to take the controller from bottom drawer and replace that in the top drawer. This requires a lot of patience and experience with electronic stuff. If you are not brave enough to test then call the technician. The controller is about $200 to buy. Make sure the mains power socket is taken out before working on the dishwasher internals.
Assuming the bottom dishdrawer is working ok, it is likely the controller on the top drawer is either faulty or sensing some incorrect signal. If pressing any of the panel buttons makes no difference, then most likely the controller is faulty.
By the way I am unclear why you mention two models in your problem description. DD603 is a double drawer dishwasher and DS603 is a single drawer unit.
Are you saying the lights are blank and when you press the start buttion nothing happens?
One reason the controller can shut the power is that the heater overload protection thermal resistor has opened. Unfortunately the only way to fix this is to replace the entire heater plate at the bottom of the drawer.
To confirm if the controller is operational or not, press Keylock and Start/ Pause button together for 5 sec (press Keylock first) and see if the Lights light up. If nothing happens then either the power has shutoff as mentioned above or controller is faulty.
Depending on your familiarity with such equipment you could try to replace and fix. I am not quite sure what the new model you mention is. I believe all DD603 models have power to the 2 drawers coming from the base board.
Ok you need to remove the motor rotor it's under the spray arm and comes out like a light bulb from the top draw and check for anyting stuck under it or any damage done to it. Try swapping it with the one out of the bottome drawer and see if that works. When you first start the washer does it drain all the water?? if still no luck try swapping the motor contoller modules (computer board) from the top drawer to the bottom drawer and retry both drawers ,if the fault moves drawers with the part, then that part is faulty cheers
I see the question is posted in the DD603 section, so I am not sure if
I am giving the proper advice. Are you sure this is a 602/601 series? A DD603 model has lid actuator motors, not the inflatable style seal. It sounds like the lid motors are in the DOWN position. Since the machine is "dead" what may have happened is the heater plate opened up (the heater plate is a dropping resistor inline with the machine's controller) when the machine was in use and that stopped everything dead. Double-check your model number so we know what style of lid your machine has, The difference is huge between models.