New board fitted after speaking with worcestor tech help line . Boiler fired up ok . next day after the boiler had been on a while and heated up the house the fault light started to flash . Pressed reset and boiler fired up . This then happened a second time .
Original fault was the fault light was flashing 4 times per second , the boiler would fire up the fan would start then slow down and then stop . There was only 110volts from the board to the fan , this was why the technical helpline said that it was a board fault .
Prior to writing the above fault I had asked the owner to turn the boiler temp controller , for the heating side, down just a fraction . I was phoned this morning to tell me that the boiler had stayed on allnight with no fault light . After consulting with the plumber who fitted the system it appears that there might not be a room stat ,
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that would indicate that the boiler is not firing up
If oil fired, been there done that
it is out of oil
the oil filter is clogged
the nozzle could be clogged/burned
the igniter wires need adj/replacement
your boiler needs a minimum gas pressure of 16 mb to light successfully. if your gas pipe has been extended it has to be able to flow enough gas. it may need upgrading to 28mm for even as little as a metre from the gas meter. if your central heating works ok when the fire is off then this is your problem
When the fan stops working it also stops the boiler. Safety. Check that the fan is turning and blowing air out. You can hear it turning at the top of the boiler and at the vent pipe exit. With the electrics off, remove front cover and test the fan by moving the blades by hand. Any element of stiffness or jerking or if the fan does not turn freely - replace. These have an induction motor - no repair Check the electrical contact wires to fan are ok. If the fan is ok check also the 2 plastic tubes to & from the air pressure unit [usually close to one side of the fan] are intact [no splits or holes and will maintain pressure and vacuum] and fully connected to their metal terminals. Next is to examine the pcb (the electronic board behind the switches) Look for any block connections loose and any obvious signs of black marks on the board. If the latter, replace
All the combis I've come across merely fail to fire if the pressure is not up. not only do they not fire, nothing else works including the pump and in any event the pump should not overheat just on low pressure. water loss - try turning off the valves on the flow & return pipes [3/4 inch ones] 1 valve per pipe . This will isolate the rest of the system - rads etc Note pressure over a time period. In this mode the hot water circuit will still work but do NOT use the heating circuit 1/2 bar over 2 days is not serious but it should be found Once you have either mended the leak in the rest of the system or found there is not one, insist on a replacement boiler In any event having looked at the reasons given for the fuse blowing, I would definitely get a replacement. These problems should not happen on a new boiler I list Worcester.-Ariston-GlowWorm-Ideal- and many others who would confirm this
Pressure is ok? at 1 bar or above I think on this one there should be a reset button [red] on the left hand top of the casing - or lower the control panel [ phillips screw on each side] and the button is on the left of the base plate. Press this and try the heating.or hot tap P.S. if you're on a prepayment meter check you have gas.
first off ensure water is getting to boiler, next, No pilot = pressure switch. On my baxi solo 40 pf pressure switch is replaced 8-10 times a year cures your problems,,,,,,,, momentarily , and have had all your other parts,but with no effect to speak of,.......sorry............ solution = [ change boiler ].sounds like gas pressure or lack of water to system or **** boiler like mine .........good luck.