Question about Ryobi Lawn Trimmers & Edgers
I was using my Ryobi one day and I flipped it upside down while it was running. It immediately stalled out and now I am unable to rev it up fully because it continues to stall out completely. What is wrong?
Here was my solution:
I was having problems with my ryobi cs30 weedeater also. It would start up fine on full choke, but i could not give it more than half throttle or ever take the choke off or it would stall out. I replaced fuel mixture, spark plug, spark arrestor/exhaust, fuel lines, cleaned carb, and still nothing! I was considering getting a better machine. Then i decided to play with the carb adjustments.(on my cs-30, they are two screws on the carb that have a "L" and "H" next to them) I dont think you can get the specialty tool for adjusting the carb unless you are a repair tech, so i just took a Dremmel tool with the circular cut-off wheel to the head of the specialty screws and made them into "flat-head" screws so i could adjust them with a regular screwdriver (if you dont have a dremmel too, get one!) (As i was cutting into the head of the screws, i also cut into the casing protecting the head of the screws that was in the way, this does not cause any damage to the unit, that casing is only there to keep "un-certified" people from adjusting it for themselves.)
Now to the easy part: The "L" screw adjusts the idle fuel mixture and the "H" screw adjusts the full throttle fuel mixture. turning the screws clockwise make the machine run leaner (less fuel) and counter clockwise makes it run richer (more fuel).
-I started out by turning each screw 1/2 turn counter clockwise and started it up, then as it was idling, i started adjusting the "L" screw as i was moving the choke position to run, after a few full turns counter clockwise of the "L" screw, it was idling perfectly in the run position, then i did the same thing the the "H" screw while holding down the throttle and i got it to run perfectly in the run position. Now it is running way better than it ever has. I hope this helps everyone.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
My CS30 that I just bought worked fine the first time I used it. It sat in the shed for maybe 2 weeks and when I tried to start it I had the same problems as nimmote wrote about. I wanted to use his suggestion to adjust the H and L jets on the carb, but didn't want to dremel out the guard and screws (in case I needed to return it). I tried several things to try and fit around those sloted adjustment screws and found that a 3/8" copper Watts "All-Tube" Nut Sleeve & Insert (that can be found in any hardware stores plumbing section) was the best. You simply pull out the insert and tap it onto one of the screws. I first tapped it on the H screw using a small hammer and keep in mind that the first time you have to use enough force to mold the copper mold around the screw, but once it is on there it is easily removed and placed on the L screw. Just look inside the insert and you can see a notch where it has been recessed around the screw slot. You line that notch up with the slot on the other screw and it slides on by hand. You can then use needle nose pliers to adjust either screw as nimmote described.
Now my CS30 runs like a champ!
In my case I had to turn the L screw about 1/2 turn CW to reduce air flow at idle and the H screw a 1/4 turn CCW to let in more fuel at full throttle. My understanding is the L screw is a needle valve that controls how much air is allowed in the carb and the H screw is a needle valve that controls how much fuel is allowed in the carb. Anyways hope this helps someone, it is absurd that they are not sloted screws that the end user is allowed to adjust...
Posted on May 09, 2009
Thanks for the advice, it worked. I had the identicle problem as describes (would start, but wouldn't idle and as soon as I gave it gas or moved into the B or C position it would die out)...The one thing I did differently was that I was able to slightly turn the L screw (white/clear casing) a half turn counter clockwise without removing it (there is a slot that a flat head will work on without removing the white casing and the screw will actually turn) and then I used a pair of plyers to pull off the red casing (H screw) completely as there is no way to turn the screw with a screwdriver with the casing on. Once I pulled the red casing off, I used a small flat head to also turn the H screw a half turn counter clockwise. Started it up and it idles well and runs well. Thanks for the advice. I would have had no idea otherwise.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
You can thank the EPA for all of these mixture-limiting BS contrivances.
The first thing I do on any engine that comes in for repair is to remove all of the limiters, then the mixtures can be adjusted correctly, according to the conditions needed for proper operation, and not conditions mandated by the EPA.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
My weedeater is impossible to start.Any suggestions
Posted on Mar 27, 2010
Before you start touching the plastic covers on the fuel mixture screws make sure they are factory set and then move on to other fixes. These plastic set screws should be set that they touch one another flat faced. there is a cam type lobe on these plastic covers. Use needle nose pliers to turn them slightly towards each other (perpendicular) if you don't have the correct screwdriver.
Posted on May 10, 2010
Thanks for answers. I ordered Ryobi PacMan adjusting tool on Amazon or $10, followed directions and now my SS30 is running like new!
Posted on Jul 27, 2013
My idle was set too high. I had all the same problems you all describe, turned the idle down until it nearly died then turned it up a quarter turn. Runs perfect and most of the time will start without choking it.
Posted on Jun 02, 2016
You can get the tool on ebay. There are several types. Most Ryobi's use the "pac-man" named such because of the shape of the head.
Posted on Jun 10, 2015
Posted on Jun 07, 2010
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