- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
struts on the front contain shock absorbers as well as the pivot to turn the wheels where as on the rear they are just shock absorbers The replacement part is called an insert
so strut inserts on the front and shocks on the rear
the wheel alignment may be altered during the replacement process so it is suggested to have it done in suspension specialist shop
One of the most common problems with front load washers is that the shock absorbers that hold the tub in place can break. These shock absorbers steady the tub during the wash and spin cycles. It is when the spin is happening that they take the worst beating. It is also during the spin cycle that the breakage will be most evident. If your load is even a little bit out of balance and the shocks are broken, you machine may dance all over the floor and sound like an airplane about to take off. The tub will flounder around uncontrollably and the clothing will come out very wet because of the tubs inability to maintain the spin speed needed to wring out the water.
To see if your machine has broken shock absorbers, remove the bottom cover and look in. About halfway back on either side will be a small cylinder that moves in and out to absorb the movement of the tub. Often the loop that has a pin through it to secure it to the machine will be broken. Sometimes there will be no visible damage, but if you unhook one end of the shock, the slide movement will be very easy and there will be no resistance. The shock should be in and out fairly hard; this is what holds and steady?s the tub of the machine.
The parts are easy to find online by doing a search for ?appliance parts? and then entering your model number in the box provided by most websites. The replacement
On 4-door sedan, remove the package tray and vent duct.
On hatchback, remove the speaker grilles.
Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder.
CAUTION Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.
Remove the brake line from the brake hose.
Disconnect the brake hose from its bracket on the shock absorber.
Loosen, but do not remove, the nut holding the suspension support to the shock absorber.
Unbolt the shock absorber from the rear arm.
Unbolt and extract the shock absorber from the body.
Attach the shock absorber to the body and tighten the 3 nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Engage the shock absorber bracket with the carrier and install the hardware. Tighten the nuts to 119 ft. lbs. (162 Nm).
Tighten the center suspension support nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). There is a bearing located under the suspension support dust cover. Remove the dust cover and pack the bearing with multi-purpose grease. Once packed, reinstall the dust cover.
The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.
On the 4-door sedan, remove the package tray and vent duct. On 1992-96 models, it will be necessary to remove the rear seat back.
On the hatchback, remove the speaker grilles.
On the wagon models remove the tonnue cover and rear seat back.
Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it safely. Block the front wheels.
Remove the rear wheels.
Disconnect the brake hose and the ABS speed sensor from the shock absorber.
If equipped with ABS, disconnect the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) spring from the lower arm.
Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the shock absorber.
Support the rear axle and loosen the 2 bolts from the lower end of the shock absorber.
From inside the vehicle, unbolt the upper support.
Fig. 1: A rubber cap covers the rear shock absorber tower nut
Fig. 2: The upper shock absorber tower is retained by the center nut (circled) and three surrounding nuts
Lower the rear axle carrier and remove the two bolts.
Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle.
Install the shock absorber assembly onto the vehicle.
Connect the brake hose and the ABS speed sensor to the shock absorber.
Connect the stabilizer bar link to the shock absorber.
Install the wheel and tire assembly.
During installation, please observe the following tighten specifications:
Tighten the shock absorber-to-body bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
Tighten the shock absorber-to-axle carrier nuts to 166 ft. lbs. (226 Nm) on 1988-91 vehicles and 188 ft. lbs. (255 Nm) on 1992-96 vehicles.
Tighten the suspension support-to-shock absorber nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm) on 1988-91 vehicles. On 1992-96 models, tighten the stabilizer bar link to shock absorber retainers to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
Install the rear seat back, vent duct and the package tray as required.
Adjusting the rear shock is a realitively simply process, once you expose the shock.
On the left side of the bike, use your key to remove the tool box cover. Remove the inner cover from the tool box and remove the tools that came with the bike. The tool box itself is held in with 2 - 10 mm hex head screws (which also have philips head slots). Remove the tool box.
Now the rear shock absorber should be visible. Use the spanner wrench and handle extension in your tool kit to make the desired adjustments to the shock absorber.
Reverse the process to put everything back together.
Answer REMOVAL - SHOCK ASSEMBLY NOTE: Access for the nuts attaching the rear shock assembly upper mount to the vehicle is through the inside of the trunk.
Roll back carpeting on top of the rear shock tower to access shock mounting nuts. Remove plastic cover from the top of the shock assembly. Remove 2 nuts attaching the shock assembly upper mount/spring seat to the shock tower. Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle. Remove two fasteners holding the splash shield to the shock assembly upper mount. Remove bolt attaching shock absorber to rear knuckle (Shock Absorber Attachment To Knuckle). Remove the shock absorber from the rear knuckle first when removing the shock absorber from vehicle by pushing down on the rear suspension. Move shock assembly downward and tilt top of shock outward, then remove shock assembly from vehicle through top of wheel opening
You can change it. Im looking for the correct amount to do it myself. I already pulled mine apart and bought a rebuild kit for it. Comes with a new nitrogen bladder, o rings for the seal, and a few other necessary items. Just remember to measure where the jam nuts holding your spring is so you can put it back in the correct location. As for the nitrogen i heard 150 psi. I'm fortunate to work at an offroad racing shop so i'm just gonna fill mine with nitrogen there, but i dont think you should get charged too much at a regular bike shop. Rockymountainatv.com has the rebuild kit. You will need the seals atleast. If i find anything else out i'll let you know. Hope this helps.