There is a temperature probe at the top of the bin. When the ice level reaches the probe the ice maker shuts off until the ice melts to below the probe and then it cycles again. Recently , however, the ice maker does not shut off when it reaches the probe. It continues to make ice continueously and the level rises all the way to the water pan. The ice maker is a Hoshizaki KM-150 BAF.
Simply test thermostat by placing ice on stat unit should turn off in less than 20 seconds. Remove ice machine should come on in a minute or two. If not reacting properly there is an adjustment in rear of machine. Follow cap tube back to thermostat. Warmer more sensitive. Colder less sensitive.
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Re: ice maker runs continueously
I don't have the details on you machine but if I were going to trouble shoot this problem, assuming its a temperature probe I would power off the machine, remove the access panel and remove the temperature probe and check it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker for proper functioning by putting the probe in ice and see if it opens electrically. Sometimes the probe is not a simple thermostat type. The bin control on some machines is optical. The ice pile breaks a light beam to turn off ice making. Sometimes the probe is a thermistor. These latter two kinds of probes have electronics connected to them. A simple ohm check will not work for these cases. You can tell what kind you have by looking at it carefully. The thermostat kind that can be checked with a continuity checker or ohm meter is a sealed metal tube. The optical type has a light source and a separate pick up sensor. The thermistor type is a very small device on the end of a pair of wires. For the optical type or the thermistor type write back for more details.
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My name is Peter. I am a retired refrigeration field service technician.
You are not getting cooling air to your ice maker freezer compartment. Once again Samsung - bad design - put a ice maker in the fresh food section.
So, you have a ice maker enclosed next to the fresh food section where the recommended temperature setting is 35-40 degrees F.
Where as your recommended freezer temperature is +2/-2 degrees F.
There is a air damper/vent from the bottom freezer in the back of your ice maker housing. Lets remove the ice maker to check for ice build up. On the left hand side of the housing on the wall there is a long narrow cover plate. This is where you connector harness is located. There are 2 screws holding the front end in and a tong and groove tab in the back. Remove the cover plate.
Now, pull the harness out.
Lets remove the ice maker assembly. There are two screws in the front end securing the ice maker to the top of the casing. These screws are recessed. They are either Philips heads or hex heads (1/4"). If they are hex head, he recessed hole diameter is small. Some hex head hand tools will not fit. A screw gun will work or a small outside out side diameter hex head hand tool.
Remove these screws. In the back in each corner is a tong & groove. Pull forward to release the ice maker. Using a small flat head screw driver wedge the wire harness to release. Set the ice maker aside.
Inspect the air vent/damper for ice build up. Use a hair dryer to defrost.
I do not believe you have a automatic damper controlled by a thermistor (temperature sensor). If you do, Remove the damper assembly. Get your multi-meter. Set your meter to the lowest Ohm reading (Omega on your meter) Touch the two probes on your meter together, you meter should read 1.0. Disconnect the 2 motor contacts. On the motor place one probe on one contact and one probe on the other contact. If the meter still reads 1.0 the motor is bad. If the meter reads 0-50 Ohms the motor is good.
If there is no ice buildup & the damper motor checks out, replace the temperature sensor.
You will find getting the wiring back into the side panel will be a little difficult. As usual, Samsung is not service friendly.
90% of ice maker problems are water related. Sounds like water may be continually seeping in from the inlet water valve (normal thing to do if the water level is low). This will not allow the water to get down to freezing temperature. You have to identify the reason that water is constantly running in. It's probably "leaking" out at the dump valve. Or does that unit have a float valve that may be leaking. Check your drain to see if water is leaking out during the freeze cycle.
Ice may jam up in an ice dam and close off the chute. Shove the ice scoop up into the chute with a fair amount of force to break up the ice dam. Chunks of ice should fall into the bin, followed by a shower of ice cubes.
Alarm will sound if the temperature of the freezer rises to unsafe levels. An indicator light will flash and continue to flash until the temperature reaches a safe level. The buzzer will also sound and will continue for 48 hours unless a safe condition exists.
Open the freezer door. Pull the ice bin forward about 3 inches. Push the ice bin to the rear of the freezer until it seats and locks in place. Then try to dispense cubes. The ice bin can become dislodged from its locked position and the crushed ice solenoid activates automatically.
please make sure first your freezer,s defrost mode selecter set on auto mode or it,s set on auto defrosting mode. if it.s or freezer making continuously ice in ice bin then defrosting control device or temperaturecontroller is not working for repair it please contact to your maintenance personnel for replace it .i hope after that it will work properly.
make a few quick checks. If there are water filters on the system, be sure they are not restricked. Could be clogged. Next, check the bin stat. It usually is mounted in the ice bin. If it breaks or goes bad, it shuts down the machine. Start there and let me know if I can be of any further help.
There should be a sensor inside the ice maker bin that tells the ice maker when its full. It may be a wire or an arm on top of the ice. If you accidentally knocked that off the ice maker won't know when the bin is full and just keeps making ice
The thickness probe should be approximatly 1/4 inch off of the evaporator.Sounds like you might have loose grids on the evaporator.turn the unit off and remove the curtain.use a flash light and inspect the grids.There should not be space in between the joints,if there is the ice will freeze behind the grids and not properly release when in harvest. Also gently pull at the grids,if they pull towards you or wiggle then they are separating. I have removed one of the grids and had the unit continue to run for sometime until the evaporator could be replaced.The plating being spotty causes release issues as well.Finally check the level of the machine,front to back and side to side.Not being level will also cause release problems