The engine has been tipped the wrong way oil now in chamber and will burn off eventually
SOURCE: My Troy Built Self propelled
Hi smithjazzy8...
Check your oil level, it sounds like it has got too much oil in the crankcase.
The oil level should be to the last two threads on the fill plug threads of the engine.
This is the main cause of white smoke coming from the exaust of the engine.
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SOURCE: lawn mower runs rough.got fresh gas,new spark
Hi fcruz775
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Also check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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SOURCE: white smoke and oil spewing out of troy built
Check your oil level. If it is way over full, smell it to see if it smells like gasoline. If it does, you have a carburetor leaking gas into the engine crankcase. If you recently had the mower over on its side for blade changing or inspection, you have gotten oil up on top of the piston and it should burn off in a few minutes of running. Check your air filter to see if it is soaked with oil, replace it if it is.
SOURCE: oil change
STOP !
Your lawn mower is has a 4 cycle engine
It does not require oil to be mixed with the gas
The oil for the crankcase should be a 10W-30 or 10W- 40
NO GAS IN THE OIL
What you have is a 2 cycle oil that is mixed with gas for most weed eaters, chain saws, ect
Putting a gas/oil mix in your mower WILL severely damage it destroying the main bearings and could lead to an explosion or fire.
Please be careful
SOURCE: changing blades on lawn mower
Very first thing to do - - UNPLUG THE SPARK PLUG
Lean the mower backward on the handlebar (take off the bag if it has one) and hold it down with something heavy like a cement block, bucket of water, anything that will keep it from tipping back up on you. Get a small block of wood like a 2x4, or similar to block the blade from turning. Find a socket that fits the bolt or nut holding the blade. A socket is best as they can be quite tight and a wrench is likely to slip and ruin the shoulders on the fastener. Using a long handled ratchet or breaker bar, turn the fastener to the left (counter-clockwise) and unscrew it all the way. Install the new blade, with the beveled side of the cutting edge UP toward the bottom of the engine, in the opposite sequence that you took it off making sure that it is lined up centered. Tighten the fastener approximately 60 foot pounds again using the wood block to prevent it from turning
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