Blockage (i think) top draw - seal orginally locking draw
the top draw was 'stuck' after gently pulling it out - i realised that the top seal (that drops down when the draw shuts) was locking down too soon and not realising. I pressed the 'wash button' to see if this reset the problem. It did, however the draw wont wash now, it makes some noise then stops. Taking out all the racks and drain at the bottom there is water sitting in the bottom and not going into the water pipe. i'm assuming there may be a blockage which is stopping the machine from working. there are no error massages appearing on screen. Am I right, and if so, how do I unblock it? Or is it something else I need to get a tech to fix??
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Re: blockage (i think) top draw - seal orginally locking...
After you remove the rack you can also remove the large stainless cover( it unscrews, and then under that id the rotor assy , it also unscrews, giving you access to the ports that would be blocked if any, you can refer to your manual for procedure of un-installing above parts if need be, it is something the homeowner is actually advised to do instead of calling for service
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Normally if you started the rinse cycle with water already in the base of the dishwasher it will immediately go into circulating the water through the wash arms. Do you hear the wash arms running when the washer is stuck at 11mins? Also when the washer is stuck at 73 mins are the wash arms running all the time or do you hear the pump operate at some stage? If you have the dishwasher manual available make sure the water pressure setting is at HI or LO depending on your rated mains water pressure.
If you find the dish wash makes the noise like the draw has been open and its mainly at night you most likely have cockaroaches. The dishdraws have infared sensors to tell it that the draw is open which works like a beam of light. When the beam of light is broken the draw thinks its open. When a cockie runs across the beam it blocks the light and the draw thinks its open. Get a good qulity surface spray and spray right around the door as they enjoy living near the warm CPU board. Most people don't realise they have cockies there untill i pull the draw cover off and show them.
the lid that closes down to seal the drawer is stuck down. two things will cause this, either the lid motors or the main board that controls them. it is a simple enough repair but with these dishwasher drawers it is better to get a professional out to fix it. all parts twist and click on and are very easy broke giving you extra cost.
the lids on dishdrawers are pulled down and sealed by lid activaters. there r two types, the screw type and the magnetic solonoid type. the reason your draw gets stuck is your lid activator is not releasing. there are 2 reasons for this 1st- 1 or both activators are faulty. 2nd the lid activator control board is faulty, which is located under the bottom drawer.pull the draw out and see if u can see if the lid is down on 1 side or both sides.please reply 4 more help.
sorry to ask u this how, do u know that the top draw is leaking instead of the bottom drawer? did u pull the front panel off the top drawer to see?. the reasons these dishwashers leak are- the rubber on the lid is ripped or creased, the loom support is broken [only on older models] , the drain hose has a hole in it, or the lid is not pulling down properly.please reply and i can help you find and repair the leak. these units are sometimes very hard to track exact cause. good luck
sounds like the lid activators havent released. could be the lid activators are faulty or your lid activator control board is faulty.is it a single or double draw? please reply if u need more help to fix the problem
Probably a blockage behind the drawer. If its an older model, the bracket that holds the hoses away from the drawer were apparently designed to fail and there is a retrofit replacement kit available if that is your problem.
It is good that you identify the leak from the top drawer. Now it time to clean it. Pull out the tube. Near the bottom there is a squares tab on both sides. Press these tab so the tube could be pulled further out so you can lift the tube out of the rails. Push these rails in then you can lower the tube to the floor to dry out the wetness inside the housing.
You can use the bottom drawer while deciding to fix the top drawer by yourself or call the F&P serviceman.
If you decide to do your own then need to order the Lid seal with YOKE and a pair of actuators. THe original problem is the actuators,not holding down the lid seal so there was a leak. However, when it is bad it causes the lid tilted in one side then damages the seal from the lid. If you don't mind the time, when you replace the actuators keep original lid in until it leak the replace with a new lid. WHen change the new lid you have to change the YOKE since the replacement had a new design better than the original so they are different. Good Luck.
Your dishwasher has a top lid to seal the tube when it in operation. The seal mode is achieved by 2 actuator valves on both side of the housing pulling your top lid down. Model from 603 to current actuators are electric motor. For previous models they are vacuum pump activation.
When the actuators are bad they are either not pulling down the top lid causing a leak, or not releasing top lid back to its original position causing the lid stuck and the tub can not be pulled out as in your case.
Let's go to diagnostic test mode to see if you can retrieve the the actuator hence the tube out.
1- Press Lock button and start/pause key until the display showing up.
2- Press Power to show HO.
3- Press start button to advance the display until you see LD or LS, if you pass, keep doing it to get it back in a loop.
4- When at LD or LS, press lock to turn on, press a agin to turn off.
5- Listen to the sound of Actuators and at the same time, try to pull the tube out.
6- When it is done, just press the Power button to get out od the diagnstic mode.
7- If you are lucky, if just the seal to replace then it is easier than repalcing the actuators. Good luck.
The track is mono rail and solid to carry the weigh of the tube. If it is off the track then the Tube won't fit inside the housing when moving. I think the lid seal from the top lid touching the top opening of the tube.
1-Check out the lid seal.
2- There is a possibility that the actuate valves went bad. Their functions are to hold down the lid to seal water fromgetting out of the tube during washing, and lift the lid seal up when a cycle is done. If the valves are stuck, the lid seal didn't get released to the upper position causing the friction when the tube moves in and out.