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Removed my oven gas electric & down draft . plumber had to do some work . installed 2 days later . the gas works the igniter works the oven & broiler does not . the elements do not get hot

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Loose wire in back of oven

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Oven slow to heat , oven burner goes on and off a lot, oven igniter glows....broiler works fine

Hello. I need the make/model number to help you accurately. It sounds like the bake ignitor is worn out and not consistently igniting the gas. How old is the unit? If it has more than a few years on it, the ignitor can wear--it might glow, but not enough to ignite gas. Remove the racks.Remove the bottom cover of the oven(usually there are 2 screws, right and left side at the rear, inside the oven. There usually will be a heavy steel flame shield held on by a single nut underneath the cover. Remove this shield. This will expose the ignitor(called a glow bar). One of the classic symptoms of a worn bar is that the center of the glow material will turn bright orange but not the rest of the resistive material. Also, you can test the viability of the bar using a meter. Normal amp draw on either of the 2 wires connected to it should have approximately 4 amps. Use a clamp-on voltage/ohm meter set to amps. Under normal conditions, the electric gas valve senses the current draw and will open, letting in gas to ignite. From activating "bake" to ignition *usually* takes 20 to 30 seconds. If you find yours is worn, HANDLE THE REPLACEMENT GENTLY. Don't knock it, drop it, or touch the resistive material. It is FRAGILE AND BREAKS EASILY(ask me how I know this!)The mount screws(usually 2) can become seized due to heat. Take your time removing them. Another symptom of a worn ignitor can be the "WHOOF" sound of too much gas building up in the oven prior to ignition. I've seen oven doors knocked open by too much gas saturation suddenly igniting from a slow glow bar. I hope I helped you!

Sep 07, 2015 | Kitchen Ranges

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Svd48600w clock out can't turn on oven, or down draft fan

see this causes and fix it: God bless you


If your gas oven is not heating, the igniter is the most likely the cause. This is a simple gas oven repair. To check the igniter, remove the storage drawer and the bottom of the oven (only if you are working on the bake burner). Now turn on the oven and observe, from a distance, the burner that is not heating. In a minute or so the igniter should glow red. If not, unplug power from oven. Then unplug the igniter and using your ohmmeter ,check to see if you have continuity between the two wires going to the igniter. If you don't have continuity, replace the igniter. If you do have continuity the igniter is still the likely problem, If you turned on the oven and the igniter did glow red, the igniter still is most likely the problem. This video will walk you through properly testing an oven igniter. You have to have an amp meter to check for sure, but I would not suggest buying an amp meter just to check this because 99% of the time its going to be the igniter. So I suggest just replacing the igniter. For those of you that already have an amp meter, clamp the amp meter on one of the wires going to the igniter then turn on the oven. If your igniter is round, the amp meter should read 2.6 to 3.0. If you have a flat igniter then the amp meter should read 3.3 to 3.6. If the amps are not in this range, the gas valve will not open to release gas to the igniter. To repair this, replace the igniter.


This is another simple gas oven repair and it's one thing you may need to check before you change any parts. The burner has a lot of small holes that connect the flame all the way around the burner. If one of these small holes is stopped up, the burner will not light properly. To repair this, simply use a large needle or thin wire to clean each hole out. Note that this is not a very common problem but if this does fix your oven, it will save you a lot of money.


If your gas oven is not heating, the gas valve may be your problem. If your igniter isn't bad then the gas valve is the problem. This is a very uncommon failure in most ovens. But this is not a simple gas oven repair and it's best if this is changed by a professional because if the gas valve leaks it can be a major fire hazard and you have to adjust the valve to the kind of gas you are using.

Main Control

This is the last thing to check. If you have no power to the igniter when the oven is turned on the main control is the likely problem. On glowbar style igniters if you have no reading and there is continuity of the igniter replace the main control. On ovens with electronic igniters (these are the ones that click) these ovens have a separate spark control module that sends the power to the igniter. This can be difficult to check but in general if you have no power reaching the igniter the spark module or igniter module (there are many different names for this part) would need replacing.

Jul 20, 2012 | Kitchen Ranges

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Gas burners work. oven will not light. gas works in oven

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Nov 05, 2010 | Kenmore 45062 / 45069 Electric Kitchen...

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Gas stove with electric ignition (oven stopped working)

the electric ignition is bad and needs replaced in oven. I had the same problem a few months ago and it was the ignitor for the oven. if replacing it yourself, be very careful with ignitor, it is very fragil. do not touch ignitor itself, hold on to it by the base of it. they are not that hard to change.

Jan 31, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

My bottom oven will not heat

More than likely you have a bad ignitor, it works like a glow plug, it heats up, when it draws around 3.2 amps, it opens the gas valve and ignites, it stays on for the duration of baking/broiling. Like a light bulb, it has a finite life, I would do an amp draw on it, if it is drawing less than 3.1 amps then it is time to replace the ignitor, should cost around $40

Jun 13, 2009 | Maytag MGR6772 Gemini Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Oven door blows open during lighting sequence

Hi CL,

This is a common complaint and, luckily has a simple solution. I'll start with the solution and (if you're interested in the "why" of it) conclude with the cause.

First (solution)... your oven igniter has failed.

Second (cause)... Your oven utilizes a "glow" type igniter. In order for it to glow, electricity is applied and the current flowing through it causes it to get very, very hot. This electrical current is monitored by a device called a safety valve. This valve is programmed to open up main gas flow to the burner manifold after the igniter "flows" 2.6 to 3.2 amps.

Igniters are tricky little guys. Unlike a light bulb (which is either good or it's bad) igniters get "weak". So what happens is the igniter gets to 2.5, then to 2.59 then to 2.62, then back to 2.5 amps. It goes up and down. But the 2.62 amp "flow" was enough to open main gas, but not enough to ignite it. So there it goes... up and down. All the while the main gas is opening and closing, but not being ignited. This gas accumulates. Then finally, the igniter reaches it's ignition temperature.

That's when you get the explosion. The "whoosh".

It's not that difficult to replace the igniter. Yours is a part #WB2X9998 and can be purchased at a local appliance parts retailer or ordered online.


Tools required:
1.) 1/4" socket or nut driver
2.) Flat or Phillips screwdriver
3.) Pliers
4.) Wire cutters
5.) Wire strippers

Remove the racks and then remove the "floor" panel of the oven. Then remove the diverter panel/burner baffle. Basically, your goal here is to disassemble the bottom of the oven. You may need to pull the lower drawer out.

After you have gained access to the'll see that it's attached to the main manifold with two 1/4" screws (take note of its' position and how it's mounted to the manifold, the new one has to be mounted exactly the same). Word to the wise, here... use a little bit of liquid dish soap on the threads BEFORE trying to un-screw these. This will lubricate the threads and keep them from stripping. If you don't heed this warning and they strip? You'll have to grind them off in order to get the igniter removed.

Wire cutter time... snip the 2 white wires about 3" from the base of the old igniter. Wire stripper time... strip those 2 wires about a 1/2".

Now the old igniter is out. Pull out your new igniter. Cut any extraneous stuff off the END of the wires then strip them about a 1/2". Now mount the new igniter to the manifold (where the old one came from). Now take one wire (doesn't matter which one) from the new igniter and twist it to one of the wires you cut and stripped while removing the old igniter. Then use one of the ceramic wire nuts (included with your new igniter) and twist it on the exposed wires clock wise. Make sure there is NO WIRE EXPOSED after doing this. If there is, remove the wire nut and cut a small amount of you twisted wire pair off.


Do the same thing for the other wire. Now tuck all of the extra wire away. At this point, you're ready to test your handywork! Set it to bake and watch her light up (without the explosion tis time)!

All that's left to do now is rebuild the lower oven, grab a coolada and get some cookie dough. I'll be over at 6:00 for snacks :-)


Apr 02, 2009 | General Electric PGS968SEMSS Gas Range

1 Answer

Oven won't work

If its gas change the oven ignitor. It has to draw enough current to open the gas valve. So its only working half the time. Replace the oven ignitor and it will fix it.

Nov 12, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

The oven doesn't work ,the ignator doesn't light up. no gas coming

The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.

So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.

Nov 02, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

When i turn on the oven the glow bar light up but seam like no gas is coming out of the burner

It sounds like you have a bad oven igniter. Over time an igniter will age and will not draw enough current to open the gas safety valve. This is why you won't hear any gas flowing. This is actually a designed safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition.

There are two basic types of igniters:
Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

If you need to replace an igniter, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting ***** holding it to the gas manifold.
7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

If you need further assistance, post back with your questions/concerns. I hope this helps you.

Mar 10, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

6 Answers

Oven does not light

even if the ingitor glows, and the oven wont lite, the odds are that the ingitor is bad. it must draw 3.2 amps to open the gas valve. the only way to test the ignitor is with an amp probe. replacing the ingnitor is about 90% a sure thing.

Dec 08, 2006 | Hotpoint RGB745 Gas Kitchen Range

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