Retractable dynex mouse for laptop won't retract anymore
It did work but now the spring mechanism seems to be disconnected or something and both ends just hang out of the retractor. There is a little metal piece that looks like the cord should somehow be connected to it but it is not. I know this sounds stupid but I am not mechanically inclined. Thanks for any help you can proved.
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I would say it is in the locking mechanism. Sometimes stuff can fall into the cover and block the locking mechanism. If you know how, take the cover off the retractor and see if anything has fallen in there. If this is not the problem, you may have a defective retractor. DO NOT try to dissassemble the retractor, it is like a jack in the box. The spring can and will jump out and you may be injured in some way. If you are not mechanically inclined, take it to a shop.
I hope this has been helpful.
Your Bernina 180 is a rotary hook model and there is a bobbin case retainer mechanism below the sticth plate that has a long spring on it - it sounds like this has become detatched at one end and may well be affecting the stitch quality. Take the stitch plate out and you will see a black rectangular metal bar in front of the rotary hook mechanism - there is a small silver part in the middle that fits in a slot in the rotary hook bobbin basket - the spring should fit on this and then extend the length of the black bar and pull onto a retainer at the other end so that there is fairly strong tension on the silver part. If not this spring, then it's probably something that's dropped-off from elsewhere and maybe, possibly the feed-dog cam retaining spring. Let me know what you find.
Hi to do this you will have to somehow find a service manual, this will give detailed instructions on why and how. I have searched for one however i was unable to find any. Perhaps a direct plea to the manufacturer may help?
In any event, usually the is NO "Fixing" of the retractor, most often, the mount at the rear attachment of the coiled spring, brakes and this stops it retracting.
The fix is to replace the entire recoiler assembly. This is pretty simple job, if one can obtain the parts.
However my professional advise is to take it to a vacuum repair shop, (NB: Only take it to a repair shop that deals in YOUR brand) and ask for a "Quote" for the repair, I am sure it will be modest indeed. You see this is just such a common thing that they fix all the time.
If it is stuck in the seat belt clip (meaning its buckled) then that model year had a seat belt buckle recall for failure. If its stuck in the seatbelt retractor and your seatbelt retractor is floor mounted there is a release pin on the ratchet gear. TO access it you will need to remove the plastic cover located at the floorboard next to the door on the side of the car that is stuck. If its a seat mounted retractor this means the retractor mechanism is located within the seat frame. You will need to view the bottom of the seat of the belt and see the anchor point. Seatbelts must be anchored to frame of car. Trace it into the seat back. If its located in the back of the seat you will need to remove the seat cover to the extent to reach the mechanism. This can be located at the bottom of the seat.. but more than likely is located at the shoulder area. The Seat cover (fabric) is removeable via clips located at the base and tucked into the seat (think hidden bra/pant clip style connectors or zipper) If you have leather seats it is a bit more detailed and more difficult to manage the seat covers. Typically your local Chevrolet dealer mechanic can get this done in 10 minutes (based one experience) and quite possibly wont charge you or charge you minimally. The downside to this is if its locked that means the same gear that locks it in an accident was frozen in place somehow and this typically indicates a dirty dirty spring or broken spring mechanism. The locking pin operates on centrifugal force and activates based on speed by which the seat belt is pulled out. (just a bit of knowledge) Good luck
You don't need to remove the rivets. There should be two metal tabs that bend over the nylon retractor, or it'll have a screw in the middle of the retractor pulley inside the cover. you bend those up a little, or remove the screw, remove the retractor, be careful, because that spring can be fun if it gets away from you, take the old rope out, put the retractor back in place, wind it back as far as you can, feed the rope in, tie the knot, and let it draw the rope in. Put everything back like you found it, and your pull rope if fixed.
Raise the Tahoe's rear end on jack stands. Block the front wheels and remove both of the rear wheels. Release the parking brake. Remove the brake drum, cutting off the pressed metal washers with a strong cutting tool. If the drum won't come off because the drum shoes have worn into the drum, retract the shoes by removing the access plug from the backing plate. Push the lever off the adjuster star wheel with a small screwdriver and turn the star wheel with another screwdriver. Clean off the entire assembly with break cleaner, using a drain pan to catch the residue. Never blow away brake dust with compressed air. Detach the spring from the adjuster level from within the drum by gripping it Detach the spring from the adjuster level from within the drum by gripping it shoe. Remove the trailing shoe and adjuster lever. Remove the adjuster screw assembly. Pull away the retractor spring and remove the leading shoe. Disconnect the trailing shoe from the parking brake lever. Clean off the backing plate and lightly lubricate its shoe contact areas with high-temperature grease. Clean the adjuster screw assembly and lubricate the threads and socket end. Inspect the condition of the drum itself. If there are any cracks, score marks, deep scratches or discolored areas that can't be removed with an Emory cloth, have the drum resurfaced at an automotive machine shop. Attach the new trailing shoe to the parking brake lever, position it on the backing plate and install the retractor spring's end into its hole. Re-install the adjuster screw assembly, making sure it engages with the leading shoe. Lubricate and install the adjuster level on the trailing shoe. Place the trailing shoe on the backing plate, making sure it properly engages with the adjuster screw assembly, and insert the retractor spring into its hole within the trailing shoe. Place the actuator spring within its hole in the leading shoe, stretch the spring and connect it to the adjuster level. Install the drum back on the Tahoe. Turn the adjuster screw's star wheel until the drum slips over the shoes without rubbing them. Reconnect the wheels once the brakes are changed on both sides and lower the vehicle. Good luck and go for a test drive. If you could find a empty parking lot, go in reveres and do a full brake application a 7 to 10 times. This will self adjust the brakes to ensure that both side's are adjusted the same.
Update: Today I took my machine in to get serviced - they replaced the metal bobbin I was using with a plastic one, that was a little less rattley inside the bobbin case, replaced the needle with a new, universal one, and changed out the thread with something a little higher quality. They also adjusted the spring holding the bobbin case slightly, and now it seems to work fine. I'm not sure how long it will last, but for now I'm good.