No, but I do.
You're asking about that stupidly pathetic little plastic loop moulded onto the body, seemingly designed to break.
I've fixed a few of these now using carefully shaped and trimmed paperclip wire held in place using thirty minute epoxy resin. Longer setting epoxy is better if you're patient (essential if you're in a warm climate), but five minute epoxy is a definite no-no.
You'll need a pair of electrician's pliers (preferably miniature ones) with a wire cutter, a small craft knife/scalpel and a set of jewellers files.
Use the knife to cut of the stumps of the original tab.
Straighten out the first two bends only of a regular paperclip (the wire needs to be around 1mm in diameter).
Select a flat file of about the same thickness as the wire, and use the teeth on the edge to cut two small slots where the legs of the old catch used to be. Test the fit using the wire as a gauge.
Now use the pliers to reshape the final bend of the paperclip so that it's nicely squared off with sharp 90 degree bends. You may find that it takes a few clips to get it right. Lay the paperclip into the slots regularly as you do this to ensure that the width of the bent section is correct.
When you're happy with the fit, sit the wire right down in the slots to the correct height for your door to catch tightly.
This is when you'll discover that there are some reinforcing plastic webs (ridges) deeper in the battery chamber which interfere with the fit. Cut slots in them to allow the wire to sit flush. The longer leg of the wire will need to be shortened to around where the first bend in the wire used to be, leaving it around 5cm (2") long.
Now, if you have some, smear a little grease (or even margarine) anywhere that you don't want epoxy resin to stick. Test fit your clip once again, if you've made the slots really snug the wire will sit in place sufficiently for you to test the battery catch engages correctly to give you an idea of how the wire should sit when you glue it.
Use the file to roughen the wire legs and mix the epoxy resin. Using a suitable implement carefully fill the spaces in the strengthening webs through which the wire will pass. Don't just glue the slots, fill in the little squares bounded by the webs.
Apply a thin coat of resin to the legs of the wire, and then lay the wire firmly into the slots which you've prepared. Make sure that it sits flush and will not obstruct the batteries when refitted.
Wipe off any excess epoxy around the rim of the battery chamber and sit the new loop which you've made so that it's at the correct height to enable the battery cover to engage, but no so far out that the cover is a loose fit. The slow setting time of the epoxy will ensure that you have time to get this just right.
When all's well, leave the camera for around twenty four hours to allow the resin to cure. If you've used twelve hour resin then leave it for a couple of days. Shortly before the initial thirty minute/twelve hour setting time though, you may wish to make sure that the battery catch is fully open to make really certain that you don't glue it closed by accident.
When the glue has set, clean of any excess protective grease which you applied and fit the batteries. If you've taken the time to do the job carefully then you'll have a perfect repair to a truly brilliant camera. Even the 2.1 MP version, the Coolpix 2100 was capable of outstanding outdoor shots which I could print to A4 size.
If the loop is slightly loose, then you can usually carefully bend in the top of the loop to tighten it. If it's a bit tight you can usually loosen it a little by gently bending in the sides slightly to give the loop a bit more height.
to see how the final repair should look. (Credit to www.uthunter.com for photo).
The same technique and materials can be used on the later Coolpix 2200 and 3200 models, but the wire is fitted to a slot cut along the rim of the battery chamber cover instead and shaping the wire is *much* more fiddly.
I hope that this has helped; all I ask in return is that you return the favour by rating my answer.
Note that a faster, simpler, but far uglier repair can be made by using a metal or plastic plate screwed into the tripod socket. See here