Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: whirlpool g2p dwi
either the latch thats on the door is bad,,or the catch on the tub is out of line,,,now if the dishwasher door drops hard and wont stay up ..you need new door spring and the weight makes it pop[ open..
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool dishwasher Fault codes
Fault code related to Flow meter. Cleaned the connections and reconnected.It worked fine for 2 weeks and failed again.Replaced the water chamber which contains the flow meter and the issue is resolved. The water chamber cost me 87euro including postage from Quinnspares in Co.Derry Ireland.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
That is because the water level switch activated by the floating sensor is stuck.
You probably need to have the water level switch replaced.
You can find parts on websites below:
You can find replacement water level switch , and schematics on websites below:
BSH - Bosch Customer Service
Appliance411: Repair Parts
how to mend it .com - ~~ Wiring diagram for BOSCH Dishwasher.
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
SOURCE: Whirlpool DU 1050
Hi, I bought a brand new Whirlpool Gold GU2275XTVS that had the same problem after I installed it (standing water in the bottom after the cycle--although it would drain out if I pressed the drain/cancel button...not sure if that applies to you). It's less than a month old and still under warranty, so we had a technician come look at it but he couldn't figure it out. I've been searching these appliance repair forums for answers but found none that applied to my specific problem. I'll share what I found in a second, but first here are the most common problems associated with slow/not draining: 1) your air gap (if you have one) is clogged, 2) your drain hose is kinked or clogged, 3) your garbage disposal drain plug was never removed or the disposal drain is clogged, 4) your pump is damaged or doesn't run at all. There are a lot of appliance forum Q&As that address these issues. If you checked each of the above problems and still have the problem--especially if you have a brand new dishwasher and clogs should not be an issue--then read on...
I unhooked my drain hose and tried the simple "blow test" (just blow into the hose to see how difficult it is to force any water into your drain/disposal). If there is a lot of water in the hose it will be difficult at first, but after blowing water out it will get progressively easier. I discovered that it wasn't necessarily difficult to blow air through the hose, although oddly it got MORE difficult the harder I tried to blow air through. I then realized that the check valve (keeps drain water from returning to the dishwasher) was inside my drain hose instead of attached to the pump. If you have the same Whirlpool drain hose, the check valve is just past the first elbow of the drain hose where it attaches to the pump. I couldn't see it, but when I stuck my finger around the bend I could feel the valve. What's more, the valve flap was toward me--which means that it was (at least partially) closing off as water tried to drain out of the dishwasher instead of closing off any backflow. It came from the factory like this; luckily it was an easy fix. I simply pushed the valve flap through to the other side of the valve hole. Problem solved--it drains like a champ.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
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The water pressure must be good and the spraying must be seen to be
good. If there is low pumping or pressure then the spray arms will not turn
around to inject with pressure which can result in poor washing and leaving of specks. If so
the pump must be checked for clogging.
check this link:
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