Anyone have any idea how to replace the fuse on the Bose Acoustimass? It is on the circuit board and soldered in on both sides. I don't want to send it back to the factory or a repair shop for a .03 cent part. Any help?????
It is in the sub woofer unit on the main board. Getting the cover off is half the battle. Opposite the input output side directly in the middle of the case there is a little locking mechanism to get the cover off. Use a small flat screwdriver and rotate it CCW until the little tab pokes right out at you. Then pop it (in the direction of the input/output jacks. I twill move about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, then just lift staight up. You can see the fuse on the other side of the board of what you will be staring at when the cover is off. Good luck
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The fact that everything but the power amp is still working, it could be only a fuse protecting the output that needs replacement although this fuse is probably circuit-wise after the main fuse you have already replaced and could be soldered on the board.
Worst case, the output modules are blown and require replacement and depending on the power level it may be worth repairing instead of replacing.
Most modern electronic devices can be set or adapted to line voltages from 100-240 Volts and a good percentage of the devices, using the common switched mode power supply don't need any changes made by the user since they can be inherently 'auto-ranging.'
Of course it's worth it - just unsolder the old fuse and solder a new one in. But first make sure the fuse is really blown. Buy a cheap $10 ohmmeter and check it - a good fuse will make the meter respond, or make the ohmmeter beep. Note that a blown fuse might still make the ohmmeter respond, since other circuits connected to the fuse will affect the reading. So look for zero ohms. If you get like 5 or 10 ohms or more, the fuse is blown. It may not be the fuse, but this is the first step to find out. Best way to check fuses is to unsolder and lift one end, so that you're only reading the fuse.
If the circuit board has a charred area, you have another problem besides the resistor. A short or overload likely caused the resistor to burn. Probably a blown output transistor(s) or chip(s), which generally short when they fail. This creates an overload in the circuit which burns up the load resistor - probably.
Call Bose tech support. They fix or replace these under warranty. I have a lifestyle 12, original model, after two repairs in. Ore than 10 years, I was allowed to upgrade to top of the line for the price difference.
Sounds like you may have a blown output transistor or chip, which generally show no external signs of damage. This would take an experienced technician to find and fix, and I commend you for knowing to check the speakers, receiver and cables through substitution! If you're handy with a soldering iron and can find the parts, try replacing the output transistors or chips in question. These are what usually fail in audio power amplifiers - also check any power resistors for opens - some of them are designed to act as fuses to protect the more expensive components.
For the AWR1-1W turn it over and there are 4 screws that you must remove. When your looking at the circuit board the fuse is just below the power supply and back of radio. If the radio makes a ‘POP’ sound when you unplug it may not be the fuse as power is getting past the fuse. I have the same trouble with mine. I called BOSE Tech and he said if it makes that ‘POP’ sound after unplugging it is not fuse or power supply. They will not even allow me to send it in for repairs as the radio is over 15 years old and considered unserviceable.