Anyone have any idea how to replace the fuse on the Bose Acoustimass? It is on the circuit board and soldered in on both sides. I don't want to send it back to the factory or a repair shop for a .03 cent part. Any help?????
It is in the sub woofer unit on the main board. Getting the cover off is half the battle. Opposite the input output side directly in the middle of the case there is a little locking mechanism to get the cover off. Use a small flat screwdriver and rotate it CCW until the little tab pokes right out at you. Then pop it (in the direction of the input/output jacks. I twill move about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, then just lift staight up. You can see the fuse on the other side of the board of what you will be staring at when the cover is off. Good luck
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1) The on-off switch may be going bad.
2) There may be a cold solder connection breaking loose where the power cable attaches to the circuit board.
3. The plug part of the power cable could be faulty. The wires intermittently separate from the connection in the plug.
I will try as best I can... There is no light on the unit. There is a two position switch, that's your on/off switch located on the botttom of the unit next to the pwr cord input... When the straight lined side is pushed down the unit is energized. When you pwr up the unit you should hear a light bump, not a cracking noise. There is a fuse on the main input/output board that is pretty easy to pop and swap.
Of course it's worth it - just unsolder the old fuse and solder a new one in. But first make sure the fuse is really blown. Buy a cheap $10 ohmmeter and check it - a good fuse will make the meter respond, or make the ohmmeter beep. Note that a blown fuse might still make the ohmmeter respond, since other circuits connected to the fuse will affect the reading. So look for zero ohms. If you get like 5 or 10 ohms or more, the fuse is blown. It may not be the fuse, but this is the first step to find out. Best way to check fuses is to unsolder and lift one end, so that you're only reading the fuse.
If the circuit board has a charred area, you have another problem besides the resistor. A short or overload likely caused the resistor to burn. Probably a blown output transistor(s) or chip(s), which generally short when they fail. This creates an overload in the circuit which burns up the load resistor - probably.
Sounds like you may have a blown output transistor or chip, which generally show no external signs of damage. This would take an experienced technician to find and fix, and I commend you for knowing to check the speakers, receiver and cables through substitution! If you're handy with a soldering iron and can find the parts, try replacing the output transistors or chips in question. These are what usually fail in audio power amplifiers - also check any power resistors for opens - some of them are designed to act as fuses to protect the more expensive components.