Question about Alpine MRP-M350 Car Audio Amplifier

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Fuse on amp keeps blowing

The fuse on the side of the amp blows after replacing with a new one after about ten seconds of properly working. there are no shorts in any of the wires.

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  • stevenrso6 Feb 29, 2008

    i disconected the amplifer , and when i re conected the amp

    the 20A fuse's keeps blowing up



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Something fried inside. Possibly an output transistor or MOSFET.

Posted on Jan 21, 2007


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so you seem to know alot or enough to get by on this oven and you have the testing equipment clearly since you gave me the amp reading.

17.25 is just a little to high. Which is prolly why your having a hard time figuring out the problem. The next thing i would check would be the HV transformers. One of them is prolly pulling just to much. They should be somewhat even.

Discharge the HV Cap before continuing
Unplug the wire coming from the first cap to the transformer at the transformer and then energize the mag current record your amps

then plug that one back in and repeat for the other cap and HV transformer

hopefully you will notice a big difference in the amps between the two transformers

if that didn't work you will need to measure the windings of each transformer of which turbochef will give you this info

Also if the oven is working in test mode but not in a true cycle. Run it in a true cycle. Clamp your meter on then power up the oven and run the cycle that blows the fuse. See if the amps spike before the fuse blows

These fuses are expensive, too expensive to be blowing testing the oven. Bring the fuse to home depot and buy a bunch from them. There not an exact match, they will be a little short but will work for testing purposes. Once fixed buy the proper fuse from turbochef there around 10 bucks each

Good luck and don’t get down that you replaced those parts and its still not working. Most repair company’s replace all those parts anyway. Your typical bill to fix this problem is around 1800.

Oct 22, 2009 | TurboChef C3 Single Oven

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I would check out whatever drives the left channel first. If it is a transistor, you can put a ohm meter on the terminals and see if it shows a short (amp turned off). If there are two transistors for the left channel, and you find a short on one only, replace the other to be on the safe side.

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What probably happened was both of the final audio output transistors shorted. This caused a higher than normal drain on the switching transistors on the primary side of the torrid power transformer causing one to short and then blowing the fuse. I replaced both switching transistors and ramped up the current to about 5 amps. I could see the power supply was not working but there was still a short. I traced the short to both audio output transistors. Replaced them and unit is like new. After I found a service manual on this item it was a breeze to find the problem.

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Fuses keep blowing out

In case it's still helpful, I'll inject a little sanity into the replies.

If the fuse blows as soon as you hit Start, it's probably a shorted high-voltage capacitor. That's usually economical to repair.

If the fuse blows a few seconds after you hit Start, it's probably a shorting high-voltage transformer. That's usually not economical to repair.

It's not radiation (non-ionizing RF by the way) that's the hazard, it's the voltages.

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