Question about Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

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The coil element on the electric range is no longer functioning properly. The connection is bad, the prongs on the coil elements are showing corrosion, and the electric connection (where the prongs go into) show signs of overheating and melted plastic.

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You need a volt metter to check it

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

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I have a Jenn-Air JES9900 range and the right front burner is not working but the hot indicator light remains on. Is this just a switch that needs to be replaced?


make this test and fix it. God bless you

Surface Element Switch

If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.


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Surface Element Board

If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.


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Coil Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.


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Radiant Surface Element

The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.


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Solid Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element


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Element Receptacle and Wire Kit

If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem in the element receptacle. The surface element plugs onto a terminal block type receptacle. Over time the terminals in the receptacle can have a bad connection and overheat. Look at the receptacle contacts with a flashlight. If the terminals look burnt you will need to replace the element receptacle. also make sure the element prongs are clean and not burnt. If the prongs are burnt bad the element will need to be replaced also.


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Loose or Burnt Wire Connection

If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.


Incoming Power Problem

Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

Nov 04, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

The bottom oven is heating up very slow.


If you are having problems with your electric oven heating up too slowly, not being able to maintain temperature set point, or wild variations in temperature, then you probably have a bad baking element in your oven.

The bake element is the bottom element in your oven. The life span of these elements can vary depending on the usage of your oven and the quality of the element. Anything electric has an unpredictable lifespan. Elements made on the same assembly line can vary greatly in how long they last. But when the element burns out it will need to be replaced to have your oven work properly.

The thing the fools many people is that many ovens will use the broil element to preheat the oven and then switch to using the baking element only. When this happens the oven will no longer heat and will cool down. The unit may sense this and activate the broil element again which will cause wild swings in temperature and also can cause food to burn on the top self or not bake properly.

If you can see the elements, watch them and see if they both get red hot when initially warming the oven. If only the top, broil element gets hot then you have a burned out element or a bad contacts where the element plugs into. Usually lifting the element and pulling out on it will release the element. If the contacts are discolored or pitted then they could be causing your problems. By using an ohm meter you can check the resistance of the element. If you get no continuity through the element it is no good.Bad elements will often have blisters, bubbles, or even burn in two.

If the element contacts are bad, make sure the you replace both the element and the receptacle that the element plugs into. Replacing only the element will only temporarily solve your problem.

Jan 23, 2011 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

1 Answer

HEATS UP BUT TAKES 2 TIMES LONGER TO BAKE, tried cookies and cake, had to keep putting back in for longer. Did not burn, but had a weird consistency. Looked at baking coil, 'looks' fine and does get...


your bake element should get red during the preheat time and also if you leave the door open after it has preheated.
if it is not that will cause your oven to not heat right.
even if it looks ok, it could still be bad.
unplug the oven and remove the bake element, then take it to your local parts house and they can check it for you.
this is the most common problem, but it could be a problem with your oven control. try the element first.

Jan 09, 2010 | Amana ACF4225AS Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

The electric burner elements on my whirlpool Super Capacity 365 stove often won't heat. They seem corroded on one tip and the socket they go into looks dark. Can I simply replace them?


YES YOU CAN . FIRST TURN OFF THE POWER TO RANGE , THEN LOCATE THE SCREWS ALONG THE SIDES OF THE TOP REMOVE AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE THE ELEMENTS AT THE END OF EACH ONE THERE IS A TWO PRONGED CONNECTION REMOVE ELEMENTS FROM THESE PULL OUT TAKE ALL THE ELEMENTS TO AN ELECTRICAL AND PLUMMERS SUPPYLY STORE FOR REPLACEMENTS, REFIT NEW ELEMENTS AND YOUR COOKER SHOULD WORK FINE , GOOD COOKING .

Nov 17, 2009 | Whirlpool RF364 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

How do you remove electric stove element


Hi goodtimefera,

Follow the steps -

1.Check to make sure the electric element is cool. Place your hand about 6 inches above the element and slowly move it downward checking for heat. If you can lower your hand all the way to the element and it is cool to the touch you can move to step 2. If it is still warm, allow it to cool completely.
2.Locate the outer most ring of the coil and follow it to where it plugs into the stove. The end of the coil has a piece attached to it that is generally a two prong plug.
3.Lift the coil slightly up from the drip pan that it rests on. Pull it straight out from the place where it plugs into the stove. Be careful that you don't bend it up, down or to either side as you are pulling so that you don't ruin the prongs.
4.To return the element to it's receptacle, place the prongs gently back into the receptacle and then firmly push it back into place. Again, be careful not to bend the prongs in any direction as you are pushing the coil into place.

Regards,
R.K.

Oct 12, 2009 | Stoves Kitchen Ranges

5 Answers

Replacing a radiant element on a maytag glass top range I'm having strange problems with the two right elements of my MER5770 The front larger dual element will only operate at high heat. When turning on...


If the burner is scorched or pitted, go ahead and replace it. New burners can cost anywhere from $10 to $40. Otherwise, check the burner's electrical connections to make sure there is solid contact. Jiggle the burner in its socket. If it is loose, then remove the burner—most just pull out of the electrical socket, although some are mounted with a screw. (Always unplug the range before removing a burner.) Slightly spread the two terminals apart for a tighter connection. If it still doesn't work, then replace the faulty burner with a functioning burner of the same size. If that burner works, then replace the bad burner with a new one. If it doesn't, then inspect the electrical socket for damage. If it's charred, replace the socket. To do so, remove the screws that secure the socket to the range and then unscrew the range wires. Attach the wire connections of the new socket to the range wires and reassemble the burner.

Aug 19, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Heating coil


The oven features on electric ranges are controlled by the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. Commonly referred to as the clock assembly. Each function (bake or broil) is usually controlled by a separate circuit. If you have installed the new element, and can rule out the possibility that you may have received a defective part, the EOC may be a likely culprit. Before you go tearing the console apart, however, double check your wiring on the element you just replaced and take a resistance check of the element. Measure on the element terminals with the wires removed. The reading should be in the K ohm range (resistance will vary between manufacturers). Then measure from one of the element terminal to the outer shell of the element. If it reads a short (0 ohms) you have a grounding problem and probably have a bad element. If you are confused by any of this, please post back with any questions you may have. I hope this helps you.

PS There should be a tech sheet inside the operator console to assist with troubleshooting.

Aug 01, 2008 | Frigidaire Gallery GLEFM397DS Electric...

1 Answer

Help in Removing Frigidaire Smooth Cooktop Burner


What holds the spring assembly onto the bar assembly is just two small prongs. Use a pliers on the end that protrudes through the bar, squeezing the prongs together, and it should come out fairly easily.

Oct 14, 2007 | Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Surface element doesn't work


When an electric element doesn't work, either it isn't receiving electric power or it's likely that the element or receptacle it plugs into is faulty. Check the other elements. If none work, the circuit breaker has probably tripped. Reset it at the electric panel. If this reoccurs, call an appliance repairperson. If just one burner isn't working, try to pinpoint the source of the problem-- likely a bad element/burner or a problem with its connection receptacle. In some cases it's the switch or the wiring. To replace a bad switch or repair the wiring or replace the receptacle, call an appliance repairperson. A burner that plugs into a receptacle is easy to test. After turning off the range's power at the main electrical panel, just unplug the non-heating burner, plug it into another working receptacle, restore the power to the range, and test it. If the burner works, you know its original receptacle is probably faulty. If it doesn't work in the good receptacle, the burner is bad and should be replaced. Buy a replacement and simply plug it into the receptacle. When you remove the burner, look for burned wires or a charred receptacle. Check the receptacle or terminal block to see if it's cracked, loose or looks burned. If you notice any of the above signs, replace the faulty component, too. If the male burner prongs are corroded, always change the female receptacle it was plugged into. A flip-up burner requires a little more work. After turning off the power, tilt up the burner, unscrew the small screw that holds it, and then slide it out. Disassemble the insulator block by prying off the clips. Then unscrew the wires from the element, replace with a new burner, and reassemble. To test a burner with a multi-meter: First remove the burner from its receptacle, as discussed above. Set the multi-meter to the Rx100 setting (or, for a digital meter, to [omega symbol] or k[omega symbol]. With the red lead connected to the positive jack and the black lead to the negative jack, touch the black probe on one of the heating element's terminals and touch the red probe to the other terminal. The needle should jump from the infinity reading to the right, indicating a properly "closed" circuit. If it doesn't, try the probes on a different part of the metal contacts. Still no reading? Touch the two leads together to make sure the meter is working (the needle should jump). If it works, there is an internal break in the element and it will need to be replaced. When you're finished, turn the power back on.

Jan 18, 2006 | Crosley CE35100AA Electric Kitchen Range

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