Question about Infinity Overture 1--Single Speaker
I have a infinity overture 1 active speaker system what don't switch on.
If i put the power on the red led is not complete on and the amp switch not on to green led. I also don't hear the relais come's on. The fuse is okee. I can't see anything wrong or burn inside. The woofer is okee.
I see its een commen problem.
Do you have any idea?
Sorry Englisch is not my native langue.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
3/4 update: i bypassed the 300w amp on my first ovtr3 with a cs3006 crossover i purchased on ebay. the input wires at the base of the speaker were connected to the input of the crossover, the bass output of the new crossover was connected to the yellow/yellow-black lf+/lf- wires that used to leave the old 300w amp. the high freq output of the new crossover was directly connected to the leads coming from the speaker's tweeter (running the midfreq outputs from the new crossover to the input of the speaker's old crossover is no good, since the midfreq output of the new crossover would rolloff and provide little high freq to the tweeter). The mid-freq output from the crossover was connected to the input of the old crossover that came with the speaker (alternatively, i could have wired the mid freq output from the new crossover directly to the midrange speakers, but i figured the old crossover might have had some characteristics that would have been helpful. the result is better than i hoped for! true, the bass is not quite as floor shaking as before (and you need an amp that can boost +5-+10db below 350Hz and rolloff the boost above 350Hz), but the end result is more than satisfying and gives these speakers new life. I am using a Sony receiver that puts out around 200W for the front speakers.
Posted on Mar 04, 2008
The woofers on my 3.5c stopped working, but with mine the light was off. I unplugged it and left it for about 24 hours and then plugged it back in and it worked. No idea why. It's happened twice and each time takes at least 12 hours or a day or so before it'll work again, just unplugging it for an hour won't do it.
It seems like both times the problem started when the speaker got unplugged without it being shutoff first, but I can't confirm.
But if your light is still on it's probably a different problem. With my 4.1t towers when the light was on but there was still no sound it equated to numerous fried amp components which cost about $150 for repair.
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
I had the same problem. When I opened it up, the fuse was blown, and it was a pain to find the fuse it needs (3 Amp, 250 V slow-blow fuse, 5x20 mm). Also, the 2 large electrolytics (big purple things near the amp) and one small capacitor were all blown. For 4 fuses, bought seperately from, and the 2 electrolytics and 1 capacitor, it cost about $20, plus almost 20 more in shipping, which still isnt bad considering the original price of the sub. However, the tricky part is that you have to know how to use a soldering iron to take out the old components and put in the new ones.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
Verify that the bass levels are set the same on each speaker. If they are and the problem occurs on all program material, you most likely have a bad driver or amplifier in the speaker. One other thing to verify is that the balance or output levels of the left and right main speaker outputs are set equally on the receiver.
Posted on May 16, 2009
Open it up and see what is in there! You might find a fuse blown. It might have just blown, without a fault, if you are lucky. If not check out the part numbers on the amp board. All semiconductors numbers, then put the numbers into google. You will soon find out if they are obtainable!
Posted on Jan 20, 2010
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