Hello! Motor works OK but chisel seems to jam and stop moving. Motor continues running. No odd noises. Chisel easily removed and refitted. Have taken whole assembly apart and all looks OK. Wondered whether it might be worn piston O rings reducing pressure causing it to stall. Machine is ex-hire and pretty old. Cheers Ron
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Breaker Hammers Master
Re: Operation Problem with breaker
I worked at a tool rental /hire while going to college and repaired many of these breakers. For this tool to work most efficiently, we would store them in their stand upright in a heated area (during winter). This tool requires special grease sold as a service kit which includes orings and bolts for retainer area. Remove large piston attached to connecting rod and remove inner striker (fits inside main piston) this striker is the source of problems. Clean inner cylinder and striker and lube with bosch grease, not too much. If you lay the hammer down or store with bit side up this striker will migrate to uppermost part of the main piston and be vacuum locked thus not hammer. Also remove and lube the impact bolt and look for damage. If chipped or cracked this part must be replaced. Parts/list are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com. enjoy
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You'll be hard pressed to find one that doesn't run on 110v. You might be able to look on ebay and buy something from the UK like this for example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-GBH4-32DFR-NEW-Multidrill-4Kg-Rotary-Hammer-With-Accessories-240V-/160648807099?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item25676a42bb
Or you could just get a power adapter. Make sure they will work for the amount of amps that the tool will be pulling.
There are a couple of main things that could cause this. Unfortunately this is an obsolete machine and I doubt you will be able to find any spares for it. Probable causes are worn seals/in need of service. Worn armature pinion gear and/or crank pinion gear. Ideally you should replace both if either one is damaged, even if the other one looks ok. There are always other possibilities but they it would need stripping on the hammer mech to check all the piston/pins/anvils etc. This is a very old machine (I cut my teeth on these when i started in the trade 20yrs ago).
Are you sure you are locking it in right? The STS locking mechanism on most of these tools is sometimes hard to do, you have to sometimes really push hard while turning it until you hear an audible "click" to know it is seated.
Bosch brute is made to work all day every day and will continue to do so if it is not over or under powered and properly lubed. If not powered correctly, motor will not turn at full rpm, get very hot and burn brushes to point that auto stop feature will stop motor (brush will push away from armature, or burn switch). The hammer will overheat if too long or wrong gauge of cord is used. Also if run on generator with voltage /cycles incorrect. Under normal use, motor will not get very hot. Another problem with overheating is that the grease will melt out of range to do any proper lubrication. If you are sure that it is getting proper voltage /amps then may need lubrication or bearing work. Remove bearing cover and turn armature by hand. It should be easy to turn. If stiff, suspect bearing/grease. With amp meter connected, check amp draw and compare to rated amps.
Sorry, but you need to describe the problem better. You have indicated there is a problem with the operation of the piston, but not what the problem is? Is it frozen, not retracting, leaking, vibrating, etc?
More than likely you have a worn brush. If the breaker was running good and then just stopped this is the case. These brushes have a pop-off feature that will stop the motor when it is time to replace the brushes. If you replace the brushes and are getting a lot of sparking, the armature or field more than likely may have a short. Sometimes its the armature, sometimes it's the field, and sometimes its both (running short). You have to have a short tester and a growler in order to test for the shorts. One thing to look for is any burn marks on the windings of the armature, and look for scarring on the inside of the field which may have gotten damage due to rubbing from the armature. An imbalance in the electrical field can push the armature into the side of the field while it spins.
check the carbon brushes and the armatures commutator (also see if you smell anything burning)... if your thinking its the switch...open the handle and bypass the switch applying 115v directly to the motor wires that enter the load side of the swicth.