Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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My Kenmore "Series 80" washer will not fill with water.

My Kenmore (Whirpool) "Series 80" washer will not fill with water. It can agitate, spin, and empty normally. Model number is 110.82681110 Top Loading. I have replaced the water inlet valve. Both sides of the valve are receiving 120v when the machine is on in the fill cycle, but the valves will not let water in. Both hoses are clear of clogs, and the hose from the valve to the basket is also clear. The Float Valve works fine when I fill the basket manually. Everything works as it should, EXCEPT for incoming water. larryyb says that the pressure switch is probably bad, but what is a pressure switch? I can't check it if I don't know what and where it is. If he is referring to the lid switch, the basket normally fills whether the lid is open or closed, so a bad switch would not prevent the fill cycle from working.

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  • 3 more comments 
  • SATworks Nov 29, 2008

    larryyb explained what the pressure switch is.



    What is a water level switch? Where is it, and what does it do? I don't have the manual for this washer, so I can't look it up.



    The pressure switch (attached to the water level knob) works fine, and the float valve works fine. You referred me to a part, but I don't have anything in the machine (which is open) that resembles that part, except maybe the float valve (which is attached to the pressure switch by an air hose). That float valve/switch works fine.

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    After buying a new water inlet valve (which I thought would fix the problem), water will still not flow into the machine. So, I tested the inlet water valve by applying 120v to the tabs and it works fine (so does the old one). I then connected the new valve to the washing machine and it doesn't work. The leads to the valve read 120v on my meter, but it obviously is not (somehow) enough power to operate the valve! I'm no electrician, but I think the problem is electrical. I don't want to keep replacing parts willy-nilly, or I'm not saving any money trying to fix it myself.

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    OK, I'll take a look at the controller board and let you know.

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    I just checked, and I get 120 reading on both sets of spades whether calling for just hot, just cold, or both. I can't understand why the 120 current from the machine won't activate the valve, but 120 from a wall socket does activate the valves?
    As for the controller board, it looks solid, can't see anything loose, or any broken solder terminals, but one part on the board is VERY hot to the touch, and two small, black parts are chipped.









  • SATworks Dec 02, 2008

    The pressure switch works fine, thank you! GREAT article!

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The water level switch (aka pressure switch) senses the water level in the wash tub. It does this through a plastic tube which runs from the switch in the control console down to the side of the outer tub, near the bottom . The tube is filled with air. As water enters the tub it also enters the tube. As water climbs inside the tube, it pushes on the air trapped inside and increases the air pressure. When the air pressure reaches a certain level, it triggers the switch.
A defective pressure switch can interfere with the cycles that depend upon the switch to indicate when water has filled or emptied from the tub. It can also result in underfilling or overfilling of the tub.

My Kenmore The switch routes current from the timer control to the temperature switch and the water inlet valve when the tub needs to be filled. Once full, the pressure switch cuts the current and reroutes it to the motor on the timer control to continue the cycle.
Inspect the air tube for kinks, breaks or damage. The tube should also be free of water. The tubing should be securely connected to the bottom of the outer tub and to the bottom of the water level switch.
The water level switch has three connectors. Label and disconnect the wires from the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. It will be necessary to test each of the three possible pairs. For example in the image below, test pairs 1 & 2, 1 & 3 and 2 & 3.

Place a probe on two terminals and note the reading. Now move one of the probes to the other terminal and note the reading. Finally test the third pair and note the reading. The multitester should display a reading of infinity or continuity for each test. In this test two of the pairs should read infinity and one should read near zero resistance (continuity).
Now blow gently into the air pressure connection and retest. It should click and you must maintain the air pressure while testing. For the two pairs that read infinity one should now show good continuity. The pair that previously gave of reading of continuity should now give a reading of infinity.
If the switch fails either of these tests, it should be replaced
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Hope this helps

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • Slick54 Dec 04, 2008

    It sounds like you figured out where the problem is, time to replace the controller board.



    Glad you liked the pressure switch article, I thought it might help you, good job taking the problem to the next "solve it" level!

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Washer Basics: Filling with water:
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.


~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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The tub pressure switch may be bad. thinking it is already full of water.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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The pressure switch is inside the console panel that mounts to the inside and the knob part sticks through and it is the knob you set the water level with ,,,,, the switch will have a platic hose stuck onto it and hose is connected to it and the side of tub /

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially and based on your post "Both sides of the valve are receiving 120v", the problem would lie in the controller. For the valve to operate, only one the the terminals of the water inlet valve should have 120 reading, the other is common and is switched thus so by the controller board. Might you want to look at the controller board for cold solder or loose terminal/connector. Often, cold solder would be on the relay terminals.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 01, 2008

    Hi again,

    The chipped black components are switching transistors. The control the relays that supplies power to the different components such as the valves, motors. The controller board also gets its triggers/signals from the switches, sensors and settings of the buttons or knobs.

    Looks like the controller board assembly has to be replaced. The alternative is to do component level repair which would require a schematic diagram, soldering iron and source for the discrete components.The only component that could not be checked completely in a controller board would be the multi pin ICs.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 04, 2008

    Hi again,



    Any updates or developments so far?





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You need to replace water level switch

Click this link

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

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Check the water supplies at the back of the appliance. If water is flowing regularly into the machine, then it is probably a faulty inlet valve.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

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  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 29, 2008

    Check the water is getting into the machine from the water supply, if there is no water coming in, then check that water supply lines are not clogged.

    If lines are OK you will need to test the inlet valve by energizing it. If water inlet valve is faulty replace it .

    Another faulty part that can prevent water coming in is the water level switch, but from description it does not seem the case.

    Check the general diagram here: Top Load Whirlpool Style.

    Enter model number here to get parts and schematics.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 29, 2008

    I did not read the rest of your comment, if you already replaced the inlet valve, then it is the pressure switch, that is a membrane device that determines water level. It is located generally near to the bottom of the Tub.

    Give me model number if you want more precise schematics.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 30, 2008

    When the valve gets power the solenoid keep it closed.

    See

    Appliance411 FAQ: Testing an appliance Water Fill Valve


    That part of the board is hot because you have that big resistor in there. Test the 1.5 Kohms resistor for continuity, and also the two chipped components.

    Replace the components or replace the whole control assembly, you find parts here.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 01, 2008

    Here is the replacement timer, call the seller toll-free at 1-888-895-1535 from
    7:00 AM to 9:00 PM Eastern time, Monday to Friday and Saturday from
    8:00 AM to 6:00 PM Eastern time, and verify the part.

    Let us know how it goes.


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