Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range
Can anyone provide instructions to change an oven igniter
Starfish, remove the oven racks, in back there will be two chrome screws, remove them. Lift the lower oven panel out by pulling up from the rear. Remove the screws holding the flame spreader and remove the flame spreader. Now you will see the burner and igniter attached to it. There are 2 quarter inch hex screws holding the ignitor on. GE likes to put them on an angle where you cant get at them. If you have trouble you can remove the bottom drawer and remove the screws securing the burner to the back wall. There should be one in the front too. The burner will now lift up and you can get at the screws. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts. Just cut the old igniter, strip the ends of the wires going to it and wire nut the new one on. Reverse the rest of the steps. Here's a little trouble shooting schem. Catriver...post back.
Posted on Jan 20, 2007
A short course from a 71 year fix it upper for the "broiler igniter" replacement:
Appliance: GE Gas Oven originally installed around 1990
Make sure you have the right tools: a 1/4" hex screw screw driver; a proper wire stripper.
Make sure you are young and can get yourself into the oven without messing up tomorrows golf game.
1) Precautions: a) Turn off the gas and power to the oven. Pull the electrical side plug in the box behind the oven bottom drawer; turn off the gas in the main gas supply located at the top of the oven (the range area). b) Do not tell your wife this is only going to take 30 minutes!
2) Use the hex screw driver to remove the two broiler igniter mounting screws located in the top back of the oven (behind the burner section);
3) Pull the igniter out from the wall, making sure not to damage wire insulation against the openings sharp edges;
4) Insure you pull at least say 6-inches of wire exposure and that, when you cut these wires, there is no chance that they will slip back into the opening.
5) Strip the insulation providing about 3/8 to 1/2" wire exposure. Verify you have not cut any of the wire, hence the need for a proper wire stripper.
6) Splice the wires into the new igniter, screwing the twister tightly in place, and insert splice connection and wires back in through the 3/4" port in the oven wall;
7) Re-mount the igniter back on the oven using the angle support removed from the failed igniter;
8) All should work fine now. When you run your test make sure you wait at least a minute to allow the gas (propane) to purge out all the air before ignition occurs.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
I followed catriver's solution to replace my GE oven ignitor and found that you can (easily) make 2 mistakes either of which will prevent the oven from lighting even though the new ignitor is perfectly good. The first mistake I made was not noticing the stripped ignitor wire has a very thin transparent inner layer of insulation remaining (like thin silicone). After I put on the ceramic wire nuts, the ignitor failed to glow so I thought I had a bad ignitor. I just happened to notice the insulation on old ignitor so I removed the wire nuts, scraped the ends of the wire with a sharp knife and put the wire nuts back. The new ignitor glowed perfectly but now the gas valve opened but gas would not ignite. Mistake #2 was the way I mounted the new ignitor. It is possible on my GE range to mount it facing forward and still mount it wrong. I believe the mounting bracket tab should be below the ignitor not above so be careful and note exactly how the old ignitor is mounted before removing it.
Posted on May 06, 2009
I have a GE XL44 Oven and same problem sited above - oven one day would not work. Ignitor glowed but no gas. Stove tops work but not oven. So I ordered a new ignitor from Repair Clinic and was very careful to order the ignitor that goes with the model oven we have(using model number JGBP35WEA2WW) I replaced the ignitor...it was a pain to get at but took maybe 30 minutes, but same problem exists. The oven will not release gas or light up. Any Ideas? I am thinking I need to call a technician at this point.
Posted on Aug 20, 2008
I have a GE XL44 Self Cleaning Gas Range that has twin burners on each side. The Front Right burner would not light up. The back works great. I feel that the gas is not coming out from the front right gas nozzel. Any suggestions ? Can I fix it or what . Please advice. The burners are cleaned and works great because I tried to reverse it and also switch it to the left.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
I have a XL44 Range and the oven would not light and looking under the stove I saw the ignitor was glowing. Seems the glowbar/ignitor wasn't getting hot enough. There was a parts listing in a pounch on the back top of the with part numbers, the glowbar was about $70 at my local appliance store. Replacing it took less than 30 minutes. (Unplug and turn off gas before you start)
1. Remove the lover oven plate by removing the screws in back and lifting it out. (2 screws)
2. Remove the glow bar and let it set at the bottom of the stove. (two screws)
3. Remove the flame splitter/burner by removing the a single screw that secures it to the front lip of the oven. (one screw)
4. Remove the ?protection plate? that is in front of the wiring. (one screw)
5. Remove the wiring access cover (one screw)
6. Gently pull the wires through the acces point until the plactic attachment comes through and unplug the glowbar.
7. Attach new glowbar and push wires back through.
Reverse steps 5-1
I did not screw the oven plate down until I tested and let it cool down. Like I said about 30 minutes work and I saved myself about $150 in labor. While we had it opened, we gave the inside a good cleaning.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
GE xl 44 forgot to unplug cut a wire got a spark poured gas out unpluged put new igniter in, still won't work doesn't glow or get gas did I maybe burn something up or blow fuse please help !!!
Posted on May 27, 2008
I have a GExl44 it seems that only one side of the oven is heating up (i do smell gas) can some one help
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
I have the same problem, can anyone tell where I can order or buy a ingnitor for my ge jgbp26weww1ww gas range?
Posted on Jan 05, 2008
I just replaced both the oven and broiler ignitors on my GE XL44 oven (specifically JGBP86WEA3WW) and took a few pictures. To be clear, the symptom is that all the control features work fine (i.e. clock works, you can set a temperature, etc.) but the oven (or broiler) never lights or heats up.
If you have this model of oven to replace the broiler ignitor just look up at the top of the inside of the oven, way in the back. To replace the broiler ignitor, you'll need to get access to the backside of the oven. In my installation, the only things attached to the oven are the AC wire and the gas hose and both of these had about 3 feet of excess length so I could easily slide the oven away from the wall.
Unplug the oven from power. To be really cautious you could close the gas valve.
In this first picture you see the ignitor on the top of the oven (circled) and you see an arrow pointing to the 2 screws that secure it.
This is a close up of the ignitor viewed from the right side. The yellow circle is one of the screws that secures it. The red circle highlights the screw for a plate that covers the hole that the ignitor wires go through to the backside of the oven.
I remove the 2 screws that secure the ignitor and loosen the screw that holds the cover plate. (Keep track of screws!) I rotate the cover plate so it is out of the way. I now see the hole behind it along with some insulation.
I now need to go to the backside of the oven. This picture is looking down the backside of the oven. The circled box is just a cover and needs to be removed to get access to those ignitor wires. The arrows point to the 2 screws that secure it.
Once the cover is removed I can see the wires coming out of the oven (circled). These wires connect with the oven's wiring with a plastic connector. This next picture shows the 2 halves of the connector separated. I disconnect by squeezing the tabs on the sides and pulling the 2 halves apart.
I push the ignitor half of the connector through the hole into the oven cavity and the pull it through from inside the oven. I now am able to take the broiler ignitor out of the oven. Here's a picture of the old ignitor (bottom) and the new one I bought:
Note that the new ignitor doesn't have the plastic connector on it so I need to reuse it. Using some wire strippers, I cut the connector off of the old ignitor, leaving at least a few inches of wire with it. Note that my new ignitor had one bare wire and one wire with a spade connector on it. I need both wires to be bare so I cut the spade connector off. I now strip about a half-inch of wire from the 3 cut wires. There is lots of insulation on these wires so make sure you get down to bare wires. I pair up the wires and twist them together (see picture). This is AC so it isn't polarized - either wire from the ignitor can go to either wire from the connector. After twisting the wires it looks like this:
The white caps are ceramic wire-nuts (ceramic to withstand the heat). I twist the wire-nuts onto the wires and make sure they are snug.
As the saying goes, installation is the reverse of the removal:
Push the connector and most of the wire through the hole in the back of the oven
Secure the ignitor with its 2 screws (I put on just a tiny amount of grease since it was a bit corroded)
Secure the cover plate making sure it cover most of the hole
Behind the oven, push the connector halves back together
Reattach the box-cover with its 2 screws
At this point I plugged the oven in and turned on the broiler with the oven door open. Within a few seconds I could see the ignitor glow orange so I knew it was working and shut it off. I pushed the oven back 'cause the broiler's fixed!
The installation of the oven ignitor was very similar so I'll skip some details (remember to unplug the power) but I did need to remove the bottom pan of the oven. The 2 circles in this picture indicate the 2 screws that secure the bottom pan of the oven:
The bottom pan easily lifts out after the screws are out. This next picture shows the oven ignitor in the back and the arrow points to the 2 screws that secure it (just like the broiler). Unfortunately, the screws are at an odd angle but I found that if I removed the screw holding the gas pipe (red circle) that I could move the gas pipe enough to get access to the ignitor screws.
It was still tight. I wrapped the socket with a rubber band and after loosening the screws with a ratchet, I could then remove the screws by hand with the wrapped socket.
After that it was much the same as the broiler but this time the wires go underneath the oven so I just had to pull out the drawer to get access. The connectors underneath were a couple spade bits so one wire from my new ignitor was all set and I just needed to put a spade bit on the other.
After threading the wires through the hole and connecting them underneath, I just secured the 2 screws holding the ignitor and tested it out just like the broiler.
Posted on May 11, 2013
I have a ge xl44 the oven control does not work
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
Was using oven early one morning and go to use it again in the afternoon and wouldn't you know it; won't work. Not even broiler. The burners work....Yea!
Since this type is no longer produced, I guess I should go ahead and by new one or is it worth my time to have it fixed???
Posted on Aug 19, 2012
I ran the self cleaning cycle until the timer read 0:00 and the clean button was flashing. I turned the oven off assuming it was done. Now, when I turn the oven on to pre-heat the clean button flashes and it won't pre-heat.......What do I need to do
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
I had the same problem with my RCA XL-44. SO I followed the advice in solution #3, purchasing a new ignitor from Repairclinic.com. I was able to complete the installation in less than 30 minutes, and now the oven works fine. Thank you catriver!
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
I replaced my neighbor's ignitor and it fixed the problem. Their old ignitor glowed, and looked great. It had a resistace of 220 ohms. The new ignitor had a resistance of 160 ohms. The oven fired up with the new ignitor. The XL44 has a safety feature that prevents the gas valve from opening if it has information that the ignitor is going bad a (has too high resistance? doesn't reach a high enough temperature? I don't know what it measures). Either way, replacing the ignitor fixed the problem. It cost about $65.
Posted on Jul 01, 2008
GE Spectra XL44, electronic control, can not get past 100 degrees for the oven. How do I fix this problem? Do I have to send in the control panel to have it fixed or replaced?
Roy in San Pedro
Posted on Mar 18, 2008
This just happen to me also....
Posted on Jan 06, 2008
How to light the oven
Posted on Apr 03, 2010
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