GE XL44 gas oven

Starfish, remove the oven racks, in back there will be two chrome screws, remove them. Lift the lower oven panel out by pulling up from the rear. Remove the screws holding the flame spreader and remove the flame spreader. Now you will see the burner and igniter attached to it. There are 2 quarter inch hex screws holding the ignitor on. GE likes to put them on an angle where you cant get at them. If you have trouble you can remove the bottom drawer and remove the screws securing the burner to the back wall. There should be one in the front too. The burner will now lift up and you can get at the screws. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts. Just cut the old igniter, strip the ends of the wires going to it and wire nut the new one on. Reverse the rest of the steps. Here's a little trouble shooting schem. Catriver...post back.

GE Spectra XL44, electronic control, can not get past 100 degrees for the oven. How do I fix this problem? Do I have to send in the control panel to have it fixed or replaced?
Roy in San Pedro

I replaced my neighbor's ignitor and it fixed the problem. Their old ignitor glowed, and looked great. It had a resistace of 220 ohms. The new ignitor had a resistance of 160 ohms. The oven fired up with the new ignitor. The XL44 has a safety feature that prevents the gas valve from opening if it has information that the ignitor is going bad a (has too high resistance? doesn't reach a high enough temperature? I don't know what it measures). Either way, replacing the ignitor fixed the problem. It cost about $65.

I have the same problem, can anyone tell where I can order or buy a ingnitor for my ge jgbp26weww1ww gas range?

I have a GE XL44 Oven and same problem sited above - oven one day would not work. Ignitor glowed but no gas. Stove tops work but not oven. So I ordered a new ignitor from Repair Clinic and was very careful to order the ignitor that goes with the model oven we have(using model number JGBP35WEA2WW) I replaced the ignitor...it was a pain to get at but took maybe 30 minutes, but same problem exists. The oven will not release gas or light up. Any Ideas? I am thinking I need to call a technician at this point.

this just happen to me also....

GE xl 44 forgot to unplug cut a wire got a spark poured gas out unpluged put new igniter in, still won't work doesn't glow or get gas did I maybe burn something up or blow fuse please help !!!
THANKS BILL.

I followed catriver's solution to replace my GE oven ignitor and found that you can (easily) make 2 mistakes either of which will prevent the oven from lighting even though the new ignitor is perfectly good. The first mistake I made was not noticing the stripped ignitor wire has a very thin transparent inner layer of insulation remaining (like thin silicone). After I put on the ceramic wire nuts, the ignitor failed to glow so I thought I had a bad ignitor. I just happened to notice the insulation on old ignitor so I removed the wire nuts, scraped the ends of the wire with a sharp knife and put the wire nuts back. The new ignitor glowed perfectly but now the gas valve opened but gas would not ignite. Mistake #2 was the way I mounted the new ignitor. It is possible on my GE range to mount it facing forward and still mount it wrong. I believe the mounting bracket tab should be below the ignitor not above so be careful and note exactly how the old ignitor is mounted before removing it.

A short course from a 71 year fix it upper for the "broiler igniter" replacement:
Appliance: GE Gas Oven originally installed around 1990
Make sure you have the right tools: a 1/4" hex screw screw driver; a proper wire stripper.
Make sure you are young and can get yourself into the oven without messing up tomorrows golf game.
1) Precautions: a) Turn off the gas and power to the oven. Pull the electrical side plug in the box behind the oven bottom drawer; turn off the gas in the main gas supply located at the top of the oven (the range area). b) Do not tell your wife this is only going to take 30 minutes!
2) Use the hex screw driver to remove the two broiler igniter mounting screws located in the top back of the oven (behind the burner section);
3) Pull the igniter out from the wall, making sure not to damage wire insulation against the openings sharp edges;
4) Insure you pull at least say 6-inches of wire exposure and that, when you cut these wires, there is no chance that they will slip back into the opening.
5) Strip the insulation providing about 3/8 to 1/2" wire exposure. Verify you have not cut any of the wire, hence the need for a proper wire stripper.
6) Splice the wires into the new igniter, screwing the twister tightly in place, and insert splice connection and wires back in through the 3/4" port in the oven wall;
7) Re-mount the igniter back on the oven using the angle support removed from the failed igniter;
8) All should work fine now. When you run your test make sure you wait at least a minute to allow the gas (propane) to purge out all the air before ignition occurs.

I have a GE XL44 Self Cleaning Gas Range that has twin burners on each side. The Front Right burner would not light up. The back works great. I feel that the gas is not coming out from the front right gas nozzel. Any suggestions ? Can I fix it or what . Please advice. The burners are cleaned and works great because I tried to reverse it and also switch it to the left.

i have a ge xl44 the oven control does not work

I had the same problem with my RCA XL-44. SO I followed the advice in solution #3, purchasing a new ignitor from Repairclinic.com. I was able to complete the installation in less than 30 minutes, and now the oven works fine. Thank you catriver!