a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
As far as I know, the following procedure applies to all countertop microwave ovens. Unplug the oven. Remove the screws holding the top/side cover (there are some on a flange around the back, and usually others either on the sides or on a flange wrapped around the bottom on each side).
Pull the cover back about 1/8" to unhook the front, then lift it off. You should see the lamp socket or a sheet metal box covering the lamp socket on top of the oven cavity (a few models have the lamp on one side or the back, but these are rare). If the lamp is enclosed in a box, remove the screws holding the box and lift or slide it off. (If you are unsure whether you are looking at the right object, open the door and look inside the cavity to make sure it matches the place where the light comes in.)
While you have the cover off, check the fan on the right side to make sure it is reasonably clean and the bearings are running smoothly. If the cooling fins on the magnetron are dirty, wipe those off also. Do not touch the circuitry on the controller board with your fingers or a with metal tool held in your fingers. Static electricity from your body could damage the electronics, even if you can't feel a spark.
Most keyboards are secured by the cover that's over the top of the key that normally has the power button on it. First, close the lid, turn the laptop over and remove the screws from the back of the laptop. Some screws might have the icon of a keyboard on them that are securing the keyboard. Remove the battery and notice inside the battery case if there are any screws, if so remove them. Sometimes there will be keys with a keyboard icon inside the battery case that secures the keyboard.
Turn the laptop back over and open the lid. With a flat head screw driver lift the part that is above the keyboard and under the lcd screen. Be careful because it might have a cable on it that you will have to remove. Once it is removed look to see if there are any screws holding the keyboard and if so remove them. Gently lift the keyboard up, sometimes it might be under some little ridges on each side, if so work with one side first lifting it up by pushing it inward a little as you lift up. The keyboard definitely has a cable under it so be careful. Once you have the keyboard up unlatch the the cable then you can complete remove the keyboard.
That is a transfer belt lift up error. The transfer belt lifts up for color and goes down for black only prints. Open right side door and check for paper stuck in the area near black rubber roller. Sometimes the belt dosen;t lift correctly. Open front door and turn knob on upper left counterclock wise to lower black transfer roller. On brown cover remove the top left screw and bottom right one (need to look on bottom side of cover) Slilde transfer unit out then back in. It is also possible the sensor inside machine is dirty.
reinstall back.. remove 2 screws under lint screen press 2 clips on front corners with putty knife lift top remove screw on each side top inside front lift front off belt goes over drum ..double it and pass through idler support arm then onto motor pulley ..belt pack may have a diagram
First unplug it. Next, using a small flat head screw driver or a putty knife and a flashlight, find the 2 green clips between the top panel and the front panel. Push on these while lifting up on the top. Swing the top back and lean it against the wall. Now As you look in the opening on the right hand side there are two plastic connectors on the wire bundles. Unplug both of these. Next, on the inside of the front panel you will see 2 phillips screws that connect the front panel onto the side panel. Once you remove the two screws, the front panel will tilt towards you. Lift up on it and set it to the side. You can now clean the lint from the inner workings and from the area beneath the lint screen also. Re-assemble in the reverse. Make sure as you are fitting the front panel back on, you lift up slightly on the drum to allign it properly.
Ordered drum from Sears parts. 3045EL1002D Cost of 85$ + 15 to ship. It came in 5 days.
Here is how to do it on a DLE2514W. Takes about an hour. I only used a phillips screw
driver. Take your time and look over the situation. I hope that I rememberd
everything. Good luck. Dryer Drum Repair
Dryer Drum Repair
1. Remove L bracket with 6 screws at the top, rear. 2. Slide top back 2 inches to unlatch and remove. 3. Remove control panel with 2 screws at top, inside corners. 4. Carefully unplug 4 plugs from back of control panel. 5. Looking at inside at the top. Remove wiring bundle from 2 guides. 6. Unplug wire from dryer light. 7. Open dryer door and unscrew 2 screws behind door just below lint trap. 8. Remove 4 screws at top of front panel that holds the door. 9. Lift up front panel to remove. I couldn't get the door switch plug to disconnect so I carefully rotated it an set it on top of the dryer. 10. Remove upper case bracket with 2 screws in front and 2 screws inside at top. 11. slide up a bit to unlock from sides. Watch routing of dryer switch wire bundle. 12. Remove lint trap duct with 2 machine screws. Carefully slide down to remove. 13. Remove front drum support with 4 screws attached to sides. Lift up to disengage
sides. Lift drum to free from rollers. 14. Observe how drive belt is routed around motor and tension roller. Push tension
roller up and release belt. Carefully take belt off and remove. 15. Almost done. Lift drum up at rear to free from rear rollers. Remove. 16. While your're there vacuume up dust and reverse procedure to install.
ok facing the drier front open thee door and remove the bolts around the door panel there are four of them two on each side then grasp the front about 3 inches down on either side to disengage the side retain clips tilt the panel back toward you and lift it up to disengage the bottom clips remove the front panel and if you need to lift the top remove the screws on the hooks on either side at the top and take the hooks off then you can lift the top that should give you plenty of access to do what you need to do
I had the same problem until I removed the screen and cleaned the front mirror with a static feather duster. First, turn OFF power. Second, remove screws on rear at top and on both sides of the screen. Third, remove speaker grill. Fourth, remove screws on each side of the screen where screen meets the speaker area. Fifth, remove two screws in center area of speaker area under screen. Sixth, lift screen up and away from set housing and use a duster with a two to three extension and GENTLY wipe the noticeable dust layer from the front tilted mirror located behind the screen at bottom of screen. Seventh, do everything in the REVERSE and you're done. If you need to replace the lamp, now's a good time to do so. Also you should clean the dust filter located behind an access door on the rear (right hand side as your are looking at the rear) with a handheld type of vacuum device.
After I completed ALL of the above procedures my WD-62525 was better than I remember. I bought it in 2005 and the picture quality has never looked so good.
The screen is as light as a feather but 62" is awkward. It is recommended you use another person to hold the screen but I work best alone and it was a breeze.