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Kenmore Series 80 also won't fill

"if your washer will agitate when set to fill but not fill, then your pressure switch is bad.
also you may want to check and see if you are getting both hot and cold to your washer."

Larry-
Could you explain this? My Kenmore Series 80 also won't fill. I don't know what a pressure switch is, or where it is located. I have replaced the water inlet valve, but it still won't fill--even though both sides of the valve are getting 110v.
Happy Holidays!
Regards,
JC

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  • 9 more comments 
  • SATworks Nov 29, 2008

    I don't think it's the pressure switch. My washer won't agitate unless the tub is full of water, according to the setting on the pressure switch knob. Same for the rinse cycle. It behaves normally in all aspects except filling with water. For some reason, neither side of the water inlet valve will open, even after replacing it with a new one.

  • SATworks Nov 29, 2008

    I don't mean the tub has to be full. What I mean is it won't agitate until the tub fills to the point I have the knob set for. In other words, it agitates when it is supposed to, and works fine. It drains, agitates, spins and emptys properly. I just can't get the inlet valves to open, and the inlet valve is new.

  • SATworks Nov 29, 2008

    If I set the timer to fill, the water inlet valve gets 120v when I pull the timer knob (to turn the power on), but it just won't open the valve. I don't get it. I posted my question with as much detail as possible on the Premium Answer part of this website, but so far, only one response and they said to replace the pressure switch too, but that switch seems to be operating as it should.



    Do you still think I should replace the pressure switch?

  • SATworks Nov 29, 2008

    That's perfectly reasonable to check. Unfortunately, I've been using the hoses (disconnected) to fill the tub manually to do the laundry, so I know they don't have a clog or choked filter screen. With the hoses re-connected and double checked, no water flow.

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    I was afraid you might say that. It was a mail order valve, so it will take some time! -Thank you for your help, Larry!

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    Larry- I checked the inlet water switch by applying 120v current directly to the tabs, and the new switch works fine, as well as the old one. When I hook it up to the machine, however, it doesn't work...which is strange

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    Larry- I tested the inlet water valve by applying 120v to the tabs and the switch works fine. I connected the switch ti the machine and it doesn't work. The leads to the switch read 120v on my meter, but it obviously is not (somehow) enough power to operate the switch! I'm no electrician, but I think the problem is electrical. I don't want to keep replacing parts willy-nilly, or I'm not saving any money trying to fix it myself. Are you good with washer electrical systems too?

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    Here's what I got from the premium side for advice--see if this makes sense to you:

    "Initially and based on your post "Both sides of the valve are receiving 120v", the problem would lie in the controller. For the valve to operate, only one of the terminals of the water inlet valve should have 120 reading, the other is common and is switched thus so by the controller board. You might want to look at the controller board for cold solder or a loose terminal/connector. Often, cold solder would be on the relay terminals."

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    I just checked, and I get 120 reading on both sets of spades whether calling for just hot, just cold, or both.

    As for the controller board, it looks solid, can't see anything loose, or any broken solder terminals, but one part on the board is VERY hot to the touch, and two small, black parts are chipped. (see pictures)




  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    Connection at Valve

  • SATworks Nov 30, 2008

    Kenmore Series 80 110-82681110 Numbers on the board itself are 388246 on the brown side and 824-77410-01 Rev.11 on the green side. Thanks, Larry! You're a peach!

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The pressure switch is inside the console with the timer on top of washer, it is the round thing with a rubber hose stuck onto it ,,, if you have a know that you can set for water level that is it, some models dont have the knob but all has the pressure switch ,,, take the 2 screws out of the console and pull forward at bottom and swing up to get to all the controls, be sure to have your washer unplugged when doing this / larry

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 7 more comments 
  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 29, 2008

    the pressure switch is what makes it agit on small, med and large and its isnt but only in large so it still sounds like the pressure switch to me / larry

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 29, 2008

    ok, sorry if i mis-understood ,,,,,,, the timer supplys power to valve thru pressure switch ,,,,, the wire wire is nutual and the red and yellow is the hot wires ,,,, if you have not replace it i would if you have let me know all you have done and i will rattle my brain and get you a answer to fix the ****** haha / larry

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 29, 2008

    no do not replace the pressure switch ........ if you are gettin 120v at the valve when you set it then all that stuff is working ,,,,, if 120v is at valve it should open and water come in and if no water eather hot or cold then do something for me ,,,,, dont get ticked but i have seen this before and even dont it myself ,,,,,,, check to see if you have your water turn back on after replacing the valve ,,,,,,,, and if you do then take the hoses off the back of the washer and turn water on to make sure you have good water pressure coming thru the hoses, if so reconnect the hoses, turn on the water and set washer to fill and turn on and if no water at that point then take the valve back and make them replace it ,,,, larry

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 29, 2008

    go and make them replace the valve

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 30, 2008

    with valve hooked up on washer set washer to fill on hot and check valve to see if there is 120v on the valve and then do the same on the cold side and if no power on valve that way then go ahead and replace the pressure switch / larry

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 30, 2008

    i have had my days haha ,,,,,, if you get 120v on the spades on valve when turned on thats all it is suppose to get and water should come in, if i was there i could find the problem but its hard to do on here ,,,, there is only 3 things to cause the problem you have and thats the timer, pressure switch or valve and you tested the valve so i would go to next cheapest which is the pressure switch ,,,,,, larry

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 30, 2008

    hate to say it but they dont seem to know what they are talking about ,,,,,,, on your valve you have two solinoids with 2 termerals on each ,,,,,, when set to hot you get 120v to one set on 1 sol and on cold you get 120v on the other sol and if set on warm then you get 120v to both sets of sol ,,,,,, the controller he speeks of is the timer

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 30, 2008

    thats your problem ,,,, the board is fried ,,,,, send me the complete model number and i will see if i may have one here and if not i will atleast get you the part number ,,,,,, sent to larryyb@centurytel.net / larry

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Nov 30, 2008

    contact me on my email larryyb@centurytel.net about the board
    larry


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