T.v is about ten yr. old the problem i am having is that
set go's fromcolor to green then swithes back from time to time but does not stay in color like it should. please tell me it's not major is it somthing i can fix?
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Re: toshiba cx35f70 35"
It could be a bad solder connection on either the crt drive board that attaches to the neck of the picture tube, the video processing circuits on the main printed circuit board or the picture tube itself. If you can lightly bang the sides or top of the set to get the symptom to come/go, then it is most likely a bad connectiion. If, when the screen goes green, you see fine white lines diagnonally across the screen about a half inch apart, then it is likely the picture tube.
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It sounds that the video output section circuit bard to this TV have some loose solder terminals. Resolder all the suspected solder terminals by applying a little more solder. The video output section board can be located at the neck of the picture tube, will directly plugged on to it. Check it. If you wish to know more details about single color display screens, check this site. It has details to that problem. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Pull up previous posts there, either by its
left side bar, or view it in Timeslide option.
In most instances the flashing green (or red or other colors) indicates that the TV has engaged a "protection mode" that is to keep from causing further damage in the set.
There is one thing that you might try... Unplug the TV from the wall. Leave it unplugged for about ten minutes and then plug it back in. If this restores normal function then the microprocessor that controls your TV was confused by something usually a power spike or brown out.
If the set goes back to the same mode with the flashing light there is an internal defect that can only be corrected by a qualified Technician specializing in Televisions. There is a safety factor involved here that's why it has shut itself down in the first place
Sounds like you have a bad picture tube. More than likely the CRT could be shorted, which would cause the set to shut down. My first advise would be to power up the set with an isolation transformer with the voltage about 60% approx. 72 Volts AC, and monitor what happens when you increase the voltage slowly. If the set remains on at 60 -70 %, then when increased to 90 - 100% it shuts down, you have something drawing too much current ( which could be the CRT )
Absolutely not worth repair. You have described a classic symptom of Zenith picture tube failure, and about 99% of the time the main board in the TV is ruined as well. You've gotten good life from the set (manufacturers figure tube life is around 7 years these days), so it's time to replace it.
If this TV is 36" it does not use the coolant. This condition could be related to a defective video amplifier transistor that is mounted on the assembly that is attach to the CRT or a dry/cristalized solder joint on that same assembly.
It could also be a defective picture tube(CRT) as well.
How old is this TV?
It either has an unrepairable problem in the tube itself, or the
circuit driving the green gun has a problem. If the TV is at
least ten years old, I wouldn't spend any money on getting this fixed.
There are far better experts from this site who would know more if you can post back specific model no or preferably the Chassis no. of your Toshiba.
Just to start the ball rolling, to my knowledge, most models of CTVs since a few years back uses an internal mini computer. Like any computer it does need to be reset and in your case, unplugging (actually for a few hours) performs a hard reset . For a few minutes is a soft reset.
At times, the standby led or power led would also flash a certain sequence to indicate if there is an internal fault detected by the protection circuitry. By unplugging, you did a reset on the protection circuitry and if your problem is intermittent or develops over a period of viewing time (chances are heat related problem), then the protect will auto activate and will not allow power on the next time (if the unit is plug).
Hope that this be of some initial help/idea. Please post back and I'm sure others would be offering detailed assistance thereafter.
My first inclination would be to check the picture tube, especially if the set is over 7 years old. If it is not that, then anything from bad solder connections to capacitors or a defective IC could be the cause. If it's over 10 years old, replace it. No use flogging a dead horse.