The oven was left on broil for long period of time (overnight). Now the oven does not work. There is no display on oven control and no oven light; completely dark. Have reset the circuit breaker to no avail. The igniters to the gas cook top work fine so at least there is some juice. Is there a simple reset or did we burn something out?
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Re: Dual fuel kitchenaid; burners work, oven does not
I had a similar problem. There's a thermostat before the control panel. You need to remove the knobs and the front panel to get to it. You'll also need to remove a couple of trim pieces to keep from bending the panel. The part number is Whirlpool W10017820, sells for about $40.
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F2 Oven temperature is too high 1. Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC). 2. For SELF CLEAN models: check door lock operation. 3. Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective.
Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit, not actual oven temperature.
I was baking and the stove suddenly changed to Maxi Broil and then to ERR F2EO Stuck Key. I cannot seem to change it by start or off or even turning the unit off and then back on. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Thanks for providing the full model number, which allows us to look up part numbers and see exploded views of your product.
Most likely the bake ignitor is bad (even if it still glows, it may not draw enough amperage to allow the gas safety valve to open). One way you can test this on your model is to swap out the broil ignitor for the bake ignitor, as they are the same part number on your model. (part number WB13T10045) The broiler is normally used much less than the oven, so the part does not fail very often on the broiler. You will have to take the cover off the floor of the oven, then the flame spreader, to reach the burner area. The ignitor is the rectangular part at the back, on the side of the burner. (only two wires to deal with) (By the way, for future reference, your model number ends is SS, as in stainless steel, not a 55)
I went to the kitchenaid web site for parts and found a trouble shooting section. I read about how a electronic glow coil works and discovered that mine was just old and did not reach the right voltage to open the gas flow valve.
Check continuity on gas valve. the middle connector is common, upper is broil and bottom is bake. Resistance between common and bake should be about the same as between common and broil. I believe you'll need to set the ohmmeter to KOhms (or x1000.
If no continuity between any of the connectors - replace gas valve (not much fun, and part is expensive).
I hate self clean functions - If you think about it - you should too. These ranges are equipped with electronic components and running self clean at 950 degrees will more than likely burn something out. A lot of complaints are because of the self clean. It's not worth it to self clean than to clean it yourself. And 200 dollars is a great price for something like this if it includes parts and labor. Good luck.