Question about Audio Players & Recorders
I HAVE A SONY EXPLOD 1600 WATT AMPLIFIER.I HAVE RUN 4 GAUGE WIRES FOR GROUND AND HOT .HAVE MONSTER CABLE SPEAKER WIRES.AND MONSTER RCAS .I AM ALSO RUNNING 2 SOLO BARRICK 12S.SYSTEM SOUNDS GREAT.BUT IT HAS A PROBLEM OF SHUTTING DOWN .BUT COMES BACK ON AFTER A MINUTE OR TWO.DONE WIRE EVERYTHING ON SPEAKERS EVERYWHICH WAY I COULD.NO BETTER WHAT SHOULD I DO.IT FEELS LIKE THE AMP IS GETTING HOT .DOES IT NEED A FAN MOUNTED ON TOP TO CORRECT THIS PROBLEM.THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE.
Your amp is surely over heating try to turn the gain down and yes mount a fan blowing air over the heat sink.
Posted on Dec 01, 2008
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 23, 2014 | Pyramid PB1000 MOSFET Bridgeable Amplifier...
Sep 04, 2012 | Blitz 1600 Watt 4 Gauge Amplifier...
Choose where to put your new amp. If you are installing subwoofers it's usually best to put the amplifier in the trunk next to or attached to your subwoofer enclosure. If you are going to power your main car speakers with the amplifier then it may be better to put the amp under the passenger's seat.
Purchase the following wiring for the amp: A thick power cable (the thickness required depends on the total wattage of your amp, ask a sales rep or consult your amplifier's manual for the proper gauge) that will have to reach from your battery to the amp (the power cable should also have an inline fuse to protect the amplifier); 3 feet of ground cable of equal thickness as the power cable; an RCA signal cable to carry the left and right signals from your head unit to the amp; a "remote on" wire which can be any thin wire (20 to 24 gauge) that will also run from the head unit to the amp; speaker wire (if you are powering subwoofers you should only need about 3 feet of 12-gauge wire per sub, if you're going to power your main speakers you will need enough 16-gauge wire to reach each speaker from the amp, 12 feet per speaker is usually safe).
Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers, wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, a utility knife, sandpaper, masking tape with a pen for labeling, 2 crimp-on o-ring ends for the power and ground cables. If you're hooking the amp to your speakers, you'll also need 2 crimp-on female spade connectors for each speaker.
Find a manual with instructions on taking off the dash of your car (not the whole dash--just the head unit, in order to hook wires to the back), and also to get at your car's speakers if you are hooking the amp to them.
Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery. Never work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.
Attach the side with the fuse of the thick positive (+/red) power cable to the connector on the positive terminal of your battery; the o-ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery. Now put the fuse in the fuse holder.
Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the driver's side) and to your amplifier. If your amp is in the back it is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car. Be careful where you run the wire because the power cables should never be near the signal or speaker wires.
Find a metal bolt or screw on the metal of your car near the amp to connect the ground cable to. This should be as close to the amp as possible, never more than 3 feet. Unscrew it and clean the metal surface with sandpaper. Attach the ground to it with the o-ring and screw it back down firmly.
Remove your head unit and run the signal and remote on wires from behind the head unit to your amp. Connect the RCA connectors and the remote on wire to the back of your head unit.
(If you are installing subwoofers and not running your normal speakers off the amplifier skip to step 7.) Run the 16-gauge wire from each one of your speakers to the amplifier. On the amp side use the masking tape to label each wire so you know which speaker it is. On the speaker end-strip a 1/4 inch off the ends of the wires and crimp on the female spade connectors with your pliers. Connect the spade connectors to your speakers making sure to match the positive (+/red or white) with the positive terminal and the negative (-/black) with the negative one.
Connect everything to your amplifier. Only strip off as much as you need off the end of each wire to make a solid connection, you don't want any exposed wire hanging out. If you have subs, attach them to the amp with the 12-gauge speaker wire.
Secure your amp to something. If it is in the back you can screw it directly to your subwoofer enclosure. If it is under a seat you may just want to get some straps that hold it down.
Reconnect your car's negative cable to the battery. Test your system and make sure everything works, going around to see that every speaker is on before you put everything back together
Feb 17, 2011 | Car Audio & Video
Feb 20, 2010 | Sony Xplod XM-1652Z Car Audio Amplifier
Mar 25, 2009 | Legend LA1490 - American Legacy Series 2 -...
Mar 03, 2009 | Sony XM-2150GSX Car Audio Amplifier
How do you have the wires hooked from the sony reciever to the inputs on the mtx?
Sounds like your Remote wire is way too big. it should be 14 guage. It only sends a low voltage low amp signal.
Another thing that could be messing up the sounds is the routing of the wires. you should have the power supply wires separate from the Audiop signal wiring. Power should run down the Driver side and Audio down the passenger side.
When you answer I may be able to tell you more.
Oct 19, 2007 | Car Audio & Video
67 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!