An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: wall heater does not work
I can only make assumptions on your setup based on your description. I am assuming you are referring to a gas wall heater that has an electronic ignitor and that you shorted the thermostat wire leads together to simulate 'calling for heat' .. If that's correct, then here's a few things you can try.. If you can open the wall heater access panel to see where the burner is, you should see some kind of igniter there too.. Rather than short the wires at the thermostat, why not ,...make a wire jumper at the heater itself and short across the contacts of where that thermostat would plug in? By doing that, you take the wiring out of the equation.. A short across the thermostat terminals at the heater should turn th eheater on and call for heat.. If everythings working, you should get gas into the burner and the ignitor should provide a spark to get a flame established.. I hope I helped you.. if not.. please elaborate on whats actually happening or where I am wrong..
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I believe the mazda protege has a separate thermoswitch to activate the radiator's fan. Perhaps the fan keeps blowing until the temperature is too low. Try replacing the fan thermoswitch. Just take care to put in tis place a thermoswitch of the same temperature range.
First check that exhaust, air ducts and filter are not blocked and free from lint. Make sure that the dryer has proper ventilation.
If there is no lint, there is proper ventilation and the machine keeps overheating, then either one of the thermostat is shorted or there is a contact in the wiring to the heater element.
A shorted cycling thermostat is quite a common fault. Testing is done reading impedance across the thermostat contacts. A shorted thermostat will read zero or an impedance smaller than 0.5 Ohms. If the cycling thermostat is shorted, the other thermostats in the heater assembly must also be tested.
If thermostats are OK check wiring to the heater looking for a contact that can keep the element 'hot' even when not directly energized from electronic control. Such fault is not common in recent appliance models.
If there is no problem concerning heater assembly you may have a defective control board.
If you are asking how to bypass thermostat to make heat work then remove cover plate from t-stat and remove screws that hold base to wall. Disconnect wires to Rh and W and jumper together. This should make heater run non stop. Thank you.
It generally is the IR Element that has gone bad. Look for burned wiring where the IR Element enters the oven cavity. Check for continuity through the IR Element.
1. Check that the blower motor is moving air. o Blower motor is not moving air: Check blower motor assembly and verify motor is stalled. Unplug oven and correct obstruction or replace motor. (For access to motor shaft, remove top panel.) o Blower motor is moving air: Verify high-limit thermostat is not tripped. See the high-limit thermostat information below. High-Limit Thermostat: o Thermostat tripped: Reset and determine why the thermostat tripped (See Figure 38, Item 114). Look for excess build up of grease inside the oven or any other source for a fire. o Thermostat is not tripped: Check main convection heater.
1. Convection heater is defective: Unplug oven and replace the convection heater and verify the K4 SSR (Figure 37) is not shorted across output.
2. Convection heater OK: Check the K4 SSR. o K4 defective: Unplug oven and replace. o K4 OK: Unplug oven and verify all wiring. Verify P1 voltage on I/O board is 5.0VDC (+/- 0.02) -
Umitherm governor (looks like an automotive thermostat) is bad or bypass valve defective. Both of these are in the header. You should have a manual bypass valve on the pool plumbing to regulate the flow in the heater. Try increasing or decreasing the water flow through the heater first.
this sounds like an issue with the control wiring, there could be wires shorted togeher either at the thermostat, or in the wall, you need to isolate the wires at both ends then check for continuity with an ohmmeter there should be none) to verify which wires are shorted
This heater has a thermal regulator and a high limit that could be the problems. If it were a high limit that was bad, the display would show the error when the heater goes off. In the absence of an error, one would look to the regulator. A bad regulator would cause the water flow to bypass the exchanger and cause a slow heat. The part is easily replaced and runs about $90. It sort of looks like a car thermostat and also has a spring. It is accessed by removing the large black plug near the plumbing inlet/outlet.