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1. try unplugging or flipping circuit breaker, wait 10 secs, hold in power/on button for 5 secs, plug back in and see if it resets.
2. try tapping on door lock position on front of unit and see if it unlocks unit(lock stuck). hit it hard with palm, but not enough to dent or damage
the code f2 e1 is stuck key
this code is for models with digital display
one or more keys on the user interface were actuated for 15 seconds or longer. If a key is stuck and cannot be freed up then the user interface control will need to be replaced
replace the interface control
I would suggest that a technician be call for a diagnosis of the problem and a quote be obtained for the repairs first
I am currently having the same issue with my Maytag A482. Not sure if you have found a fix yet, or if you have replaced your washer. My washer runs fine until it nears the end of the cycle, when it begins to spin and shake violently, enough to loosen the leveling feet and rock back and forth. I pulled the front panel of the machine off (two screws near the base in the front, and two clips at the top) and ran a load through it. It ran fine until the end, when the machine started shaking violently. I did notice a few small pieces of roundish felt looking material sitting on the bottom, which after some research looks like it may be the damper pad. I found these online: Damper pad 203956 Replacement Damper 203725 for MAYTAG Laundry Appliances A482
I am hoping this will resolve the issue, I will order them this afternoon and install them once they arrive. I really hate to replace such a good washer with a new high efficiency unit, which all seem to have terrible reviews after a few months/year of use.
One of the burner switches may have a stuck "element on" arm inside. I found mine by unplugging the switches one by one and restoring power inbetween. Once I restored power and the light went out, I knew I had the problem switch unplugged. Popped it open, freed the stuck arm. Reassembled, twisted the switch a few times to ensure smooth operation and reinstalled the switch. Problem solved.
With most pressure washers the pump is also secured to the crankshaft using a setscrew. Check around the pump flange. You should find a small hold or slot in it somewhere around its radius. You will then need to slowly crank the engine until the setscrew is aligned to the opening. They are normally allen head setscrews but they vary in size. Once you remove the setscrew it should slide off the crank. Sometimes they will still stick on and will require some prying to remove them. In rare instances the cranks can rust together and require heat in order to be freed from one another.
May be partially seized from sitting. I'd pull spark plug and pour/spray some WD-40 or similar in cylinder and let it soak for a while and keep trying to pull rope once in a while until it lets loose. Once it starts to turn over, install plug and see if it will start and run for a minute or 2 then change oil and should be good to go. If not, get back to me.
fault code indicates a draining problem and the display can be cleared
by pressing the Pause/Cancel button twice. Either the pump filter is blocked, the drain hose is clogged/kinked, the pressure switch is stuck in the full
position, or the pump itself is not working.
Disconnect power and
the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet
then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom
front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to
access and remove the screws more easily. Once the panel is off,
remove the pump filter by turning the knob counterclockwise. Clean the
from any debris that prevents water from draining out properly. Reach
in the pump impeller with your finger then turn it and inspect it for
damage, restriction or blockage. Replace the pump if the impeller is
broken or restricted and cannot be freed. Let us know if you need further advice.