Question about Maytag MDE2706 Electric Dryer

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After first Ignition cycle igniter stays on too briefly to open gas valve gas.

Our Matag DG713 worked years with no problems. Now upon first starting (cold start)the igniter stays on long enough to open the gas valve and ignite the gas (about twenty seconds). However once that first flame shuts off, the igniter cycles on for only ten to twelve seconds, not long enough to trigger gas flow. It will continue to cycle this way through the entire drying cycle, never again staying on long enough to start gas flow. When the dryer is turned on after 30 min. cooling down it again ignites - but again once and only once! Help please.

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  • jakieboy Aug 04, 2008

    I have a gas dryer Model DG713, it ignites, blows the flame but only stays on for about 10 seconds then goes out. In about a minute it does the same thing, ignite, blows for ten seconds then go out. The cycle keeps going. What can be causing this.

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    gas dryer ignites. stays on for about 25 seconds and then goes out

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    gas not igniting, changed igniter still not working

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    My gas oven in my DCS model does not work. Gas does not turn on. Before it stopped working it was slow start up the gas flow.



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Valid Most likely the problem with your dryer is the coils for the gas valve. Remove the access door (on the bottom right side on the front panel) and you can see the gas valve with three coils on top of it. They are coming as a kit with complete instruction. The part number for this kit is AP2669614.You can buy it here

Posted on Jan 16, 2007


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Is there a trick to starting the Pyrox 400? Turned the fan on and press on low then repeatedly press the ignition pilot light, start to smell of gas after a minute. Won't start Help please

Is the ignition sparking? When you press and hold down the buttons, the ignition should be sparking at the centre electrode. At the same time when you hold the buttons down, the gas valve is manually held open to release the gas. The spark is then supposed to ignite the gas. Hold the knobs down for about 3 to 5 seconds after ignition and the gas valve will stay on. If it lights but the flame wont stay on, it could be anything from a partially blocked aeration port to a worn knob. When you push down on the knob, it is supposed to press down on an electromagnetic lock which keeps the gas valve open when the flame is burning. When the knob or shaft isn't pushing down enough, it doesn't keep the gas valve locked and the flame will go out as soon as you let the knob go.

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Heater is cycling on and off, less then one minute cycle time between cycles. Sometimes SPK code comes on and stays on without firing. Have shorted water press switch with no effect. Pretty sure gas...

The SPK Code, indicates that there is power to Igniter and should be producing a Spark to ignite fuel! If this is actually the case, then it is NOT a safety sensor issue, The igniter serves a dual purpose: produce a spark, and then CONFIRM a flame is consuming the fuel. If it does not get a proper Milivolt reading, then gas valve will shut off, hence a cycle occurs. Not enough reading is the same to the heater as no reading! Safety issue. If gas valve stays open, and no flame to consume raw fuel, it will build up and accumulate then when ignition takes place, it go...BOOM! Not Good.
Either insufficient fuel supply/pressure or faulty igniter. It's also not a Gas Valve. It's a simple switching valve, either open or closed.

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When the heat cycle calls for gas there is no ignition is my gas valve bad?

I don't know what kind of furnace you have. But most furnaces have some sort of pilot first than after it is proven than the main gas will come on. Either a standing Pilot with a thermocouple. A hot surface ignition or Spark ignition with a flame sensor. Or a direct fire system where hot surface or spark ignitor start first than all the burners send a 1 sec blast of gas which is proven by the flame sensor if it proves the gas valve stays on.....
In what you have said you have 24 volts to the gas valve and it has not lite. then does the gas valve have a pilot tube???Does it have a thermocouple?? Do you smell gas?? If you don't smell gas then the main part of the valve has not opened. The Pilot valve has to open first and prove before the main gas will come on. I hope this helps. If you still need help repost with the name and model # of the furnace.

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1 Answer

Will not heat up in any cycle

If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, the following link will give you some advice on how to troubleshoot a no heat problem:

If this is a GAS dryer, the most common failure for heat related problems in a gas dryer is a weak or blown igniter on the burner assembly. The way the ignition system is supposed to work is like this:

1. Select the dryer cycle and press start.
2. The drum begins to spin and the igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.

  1. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you start the dryer to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the appliance that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.


Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the dryer still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

You can purchase a replacement at any of the following websites:

The first three sites on the list also offer some excellent exploded view diagrams of the appliance.

If your replacement igniter comes with a connector plug that does not match your appliance, you will be instructed to cut the old plug off and splice the wires together using ceramic wire lugs included in the kit. Do not use standard wire lugs as they will melt.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

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Hello and welcome to FixYA!
You are 100% correct in your suspicion that the oven ignitor is at fault. If you want to know "for certain" you can check that ignitor in circuit using an amprobe and looking for at least 2.9 amps, however I would say all you need do is replace that ignitor and your oven should return to proper operation. The gas smell is a result of an ignitor being on the "ragged edge" of being able to open the warp switch in the gas valve. Instead of opening up, it is "burping" the valve enough for you to smell gas. Your part number is a
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