Question about Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side Refrigerator with FrontFill Ice and Water

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Help My fridge keeps building up ice on the back of it under a metal case that holds hoses and wires......I have to unplug it and completely defrost this area before it will start to work again........Then it works fine for a couple of months till it does it again......can u help?

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I have a Amana Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Model BX518VW and have the same problem can some one give me any ideas why it is doing this.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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Freezer is not freezing and is building up ice in the back


Older GE fridges are notorious for the "Defrost Heater" failing. The fix is to empty the fridge, "manually defrost it" (just leave the freezer door open and aim a fan into the freezer box), and replace the Defrost Heater.

(The "new style" Defrost Heater is well improved, and should last near forever)

After you have Googled around a bit with your Model number to locate and purchase the proper Defrost Heater ($50), Unplug the fridge, PUT TOWELS ON THE FLOOR, and try to sop up as much of the thawing ice water before it even gets out of the freezer box. Also, you will notice a small "sink" with a drain in the back / bottom of the freezer box. Keep a dry towel there, and you will have little or no water leak out onto the floor.

You will want to prop the door open and run the fan for an entire day, if not 24 hours. The block of ice that formed on the cooling coils because the heater failed is usually quite substantial, and takes forever to completely melt. It is essential to melt it completely away, or airflow over the coils will stay blocked and the fridge will just never really work properly, new heater or not.

When it is nice and dry, remove the shelves, plastic lamp covers, etc., and then unscrew and remove the sheet metal covering the lower half of the freezer (maybe 4 or 6 sheet-metal screws). At the bottom of the freezer box, you will see the heater, located under the cooling coils. The electrical connectors will pull right off, and a single sheet-metal screw hold the unit in.

Pull the old heater out, put the new one in, slip the electrical connectors back on, replace the sheet-metal panel (back "wall" of the freezer), replace the screws, bulbs, plastics and shelved, and your good to go!

Do it all yourself (Yes, you can!) and save $200 to $300. Fix(d)Ya!

Dec 30, 2013 | GE Refrigerators

4 Answers

Ice develops at back of fridge


hi chris
dave here hope i can help

I would test the defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost limit switch

TESTING AND REPLACING THE DEFROST TIMER
This timer activates the heater that melts frost in the evaporator for 10 to 20 minutes every 10 to 12 hours. In the process, it turns the compressor off and on. If it fails, the compressor may not run. Or the heater may not go on, eventually causing a hidden ice buildup that blocks the cold-air flow and disables the evaporator fan. An access hole lets you test the timer. If the timer isn't in the control panel, look behind the front grille or behind the rear access panel. If the compressor fails to run turn the timer until it clicks. If compressor goes on, timer is faulty. If unit isn't defrosting automatically and turning timer stops compressor or fan, timer is faulty.
Before replacing timer, spray it with electrical contact cleaner through access hole and turn it a few times. Stop just before a click and wait to see if timer advances on its own.
To replace timer, unplug the refrigerator and open control panel. Remove screws holding timer to panel and pull of leads. If wires aren't in a plug, move then one at a time to new timer.

EVAPORATOR AND DEFROST HEATER
In a frost-free unit, the evaporator coils, their fan, and the deforst heater are located behind the freezer's back wall or under its floor. The fan, which circulates cold air between the coils and the two food compartments, is controlled by the door switch, the thermostat, or both. To check the fan, open both doors, wait for the compressor to go on, and hold in the door switch. If you can't hear the fan running, test the fan(below).
The defrost heater, which melts frost on the coils, is cycled on by the defrost timer(above). If the frost melts before the end of the defrost cycle, the defrost limit switch turns the heater off. The heater may be a metal rod, a wire wrapped in foil, or a coil inside a glass tube. All are tested the same way. Test terminals for the heater are often located in the control panel or under a doorjamb; check the wiring diagram. Or test the heater leads inside the evaporator compartment.

TESTING THE EVAPORATOR FAN
To remove the evaporator fan, unplug unit; open back panel(or floor) of freezer. Then unscrew housing holding fan, and take off leads going to fan motor. With VOM(Volt-Ohm Meter) on RX1, probe motor terminals(except green ground wire terminal). Look for moderate resistance(50 to 200 ohms). Replace fan if much lower or infinity.

TESTING THE DEFROST HEATER
Open control panel. With VOM on RX1, probe test terminals. Look for 15-to 100-ohm reading. If infinity, turn defrost timer(as above); retest.

TESTING DEFROST LIMIT SWITCH
Trace and disconnect leads. With VOM on RX1, probe leads. Look for infinity reading when switch is warm, zero after 20 minutes in working freezer.

Hope this sources your problem
Thank you for using Fixya.com

Jul 20, 2008 | AEG Santo U 86000i Compact Refrigerator

1 Answer

Where is the drain hole? The refrigerator is defrosting and the condensation is under the bottom drawers instead of the pan beneath the frig. I can't find the place where the water should be draining...


The drain is in the FREEZER. Frost and ice melts off the evaporator coil during the defrost cycle and collects in a tray directly under the coil. The tray is pitched to the drain tube that runs inside the fridge wall to a pan under the fridge - where the water is evaporated by the heat created by the compressor and the fan that cools the condenser coil.

To see these parts, unplug the fridge. You'll need to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer. That means the freezer needs to emptied, ice maker removed, etc. Chances are that the drain is clogged - most likely with ice. Manually defrost with a hair dryer and use a turkey baster filled with hot water to direct a stream into the drain tube. Resist using tools to chip ice - the components are made with soft metal and if punctured will allow freon gas to escape. You can suffer instant frostbite to exposed skin or blindness if it gets into your eyes. Once water is flowing, consider hanging a piece of copper or aluminum wire from the defrost heater down into the drain tube. Make sure the wire hangs down as far as the ice build up did (2 or 3 inches at most). This will help conduct the heat into the drain tube and prevent it from icing over in the future.

I hope this was helpful. If it was, please rate it "4 thumbs up". Thanks!

Aug 01, 2011 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

2 Answers

Water is leaking into my fridge from defrost.


Most times this is a plugged defrost drain system. The defrost heater in the freezer section melts the frost and changes it to water, this water is suppose to flow down a drain system. If this drain system is restricted or plugged the water will leak inside the refrigerator. The drain system starts in the freezer section with a tray built under the evaporator coil. The water is funneled through a small hose into a cup in the top middle of the fresh food section ( not on all models, but this is the most common way ), from there, the water is directed out the back wall to a drain hose that runs down the back of the refrigerator into a condensing tray. The heat created under the fridge makes the water evaporate and disappear. Some of the cups ( in the top back of the fresh food section ) can be removed for cleaning. A turkey baster can be used to help clean out the drain system. Fill the baster with hot water and "blast" it into the drain hose to help flush it out. A piece of wire or pipe cleaner can also be pushed into the drain hoses to help clean then out. On a S x S style of fridge the drain system is in the bottom back of the freezer section and often you will have to remove the evaporator cover to access the drain hole. You can clean this out in the same manner as previously mentioned, but because of the water leaking into the freezer instead of the fresh food section you will have to remove the ice build up to clean out the drain system.


If in case the water is leaking on the floor then:--
There are several things to check for. The condensing defrost tray under the fridge can crack or develop a hole and leak onto the floor. A door gasket not closing properly may cause sweating and leak onto the floor. If your fridge has developed a frost free failure problem, often the frost will travel down the suction line at the back of the fridge and drip water on the floor. The heat exchanger tubing can separate and also sweat and drip on the floor. Ice maker and chilled water fill lines can crack and leak as well, this is fairly common with the plastic lines as they can dry out and crack.
Unplug the unit from main power outlet and empty whole unit and keep both the doors open and then connect the power after 24 hours and recheck.This procedure is called manual defrost reset.If this helps then its OK,but if this procedure not helping then its the faulty defrost unit and it needs to be replaced.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.


Aug 30, 2010 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

My 20+ year old top freezer fridge sometimes leaks water from the freezer into the fridge through the air vents. Is this from the defrosting of the freezer and how do it get it to stop?


You will need to take the freezer compartment apart. Remove the ice build up. Clear the defrost drain located under the coils near the center of the drain pan. Usally some very hot water will work in clearing the drain. Once it is clear and the ice is all removed from the bottom of the freezer you will need to check and or replace the defrost bi-metal and the defrost timer. The bi-metal is located on the coils in the freezer. It looks like a little can with two wires going to it. The defrost timer depending on the brand can be located in the refrigerator near the controls,or under the refrigerator behind the kick plate. Or in the back of the refrigerator near the compressor

Oct 14, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frigidiare PLHS39EESS9 Ice build up in bottom of Freezer


I had the same problem with my Jenn-air side-by-side

Your freezer has a defrost cycle and when the freezer temp is set too cold, your drainage pan and tube freezes up (behind the back panels in the freezer) and when that gets full it spills over too the bottom of the fridge and keeps building up until you notice.
  • Un-plug fridge and put your food in coolers or another fridge.
  • Defrost the freezer, remove the ice from the bottom.
  • Remove the back panel/s (in the freezer).
  • Check the drainage pan. If it is iced up, you'll have to carefully remove the ice and check the drainage hole.
  • If the hole is iced up, so is the first 1-2 inches of the plastic tube leading to the main drainage pan behind and under the fridge.
  • You can use a hair drier to speed up defrost.
  • To defrost the hole and tube I used round ended metal (nut pics or beater attachment ends- avoid sharp objects) heated up in boiling water and gently forced down into the hole and tube until defrosted.
  • Check flow(by pouring warm water) down and looking behind and under fridge(with flashlight) to see if flowing into main drainage pan.
  • Turn up your freezer temp and check with a thermometer. Your freezer temp was probably set too cold
Mine is going on 5 months with no problem. If this continues, it might be the defroster.
Good Luck!

Mar 22, 2009 | Frigidaire PLHS39EESS Stainless Steel

1 Answer

My bottom freezer is making ice but not keeping the food frozen


The flow tubes are blocked.You will need to defrost the unit,unplug and pull off as much ice as possible.You can put pans of hot water in the freezer.

Feb 12, 2009 | Whirlpool GB9SHKXL Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Freezer and fridge warming up (GE side by side)


You have a defrost problem...and a dispenser chute or door problem... first check the door for air leaks . check that the chute door is closing tight and allways... also check around the door seal..

Now your defrost problem you have three parts defrost timer, heater and defrost thermostat .(bi-metal) the most likely problem is you bi-metal it is cliped on the evaporator about the size of a quarter with two wires mostly brown and orange... with the power off...and with the bimetal cool check it for check continuity... also check the heater for continuity .. next check your defrost timer it can be with the controls or in at the bottom under the cover,, or in the back ..there is a knob to advance the timer .. turn it untill it clicks and you have stated the defrost cycle. it should take around 20 minutes then the compressor will state again... hope this helps let me know

Jun 09, 2008 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Back of Fridge icing up


If the fan is running you more than likely have a defrost problem.
look at the back wall of the freezer section if it is frosted up. it's not defrosting.
There three components in this system. The defrost heater, the defrost termination stat., and the defrost timer. Newer refrigerators do not have a timer per say it is build into a electronic board usually mounted on the back of the refrigerator under a metal plate. The termination stat is the cheapest part @ $ 25.00. The heater should run @ 50.00 to 70.00. The board could be as much as 200.00 or more. If the refrigerator is over 10 years old you may wish to look into getting a replacement. Appliances are designed to start failing after 10 years old.
My opinion.
If you unplug the refrigerator let it defrost then plug it back in. it will work properly about 3 days before it frosts back up.

May 17, 2008 | Miele KFN8762SDED Bottom Freezer...

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