Question about American Range AR-6-C Gas Kitchen Range

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Igniter that heats up to light the oven may have gone bad. if it has it will not allow the gas to come on in the oven as a safety feature. Also a bad thermocouple in the oven can stop the oven from lighting.
When you turn on the oven do you see the igniter near the main burner come on? It will glow really red-orange and be bright. If on but dim replace it. If it does I would replace the thermocouple in the oven itself. Usually looks like a rod in clips on the back wall of the oven with a metal wire leading through to the back or bottom of the oven. A hardware store should have a replacement for it so pop it out of the clips and undo the other end then take it with you to match up.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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Check out if the ignitor is glowing or not.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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  • jamesrated Nov 28, 2008

    Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems

    Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
    If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.

    There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models .

  • jamesrated Nov 28, 2008

    Ignitor glowing but oven only gets warm

    If the ignitor ages and gets 'weak', it is possible for it to glow and generate some warmth in the oven but the oven burner never actually come on to get the oven up to proper temperature. It is also possible for the oven burner to light and heat once but never cycle back on again afterward. The heat generated by the ignitor may keep the oven warm for a while until it is noticed that the oven isn't heating 'right' any longer.

    Oven not heating and ignitor NOT glowing

    Power must flow from the control system to the ignitor and through the oven valve. If there is any break in that circuit, the ignitor will not glow and thus the gas valve not open. The ignitor not glowing could be caused by the ignitor or the gas valve being open (infinite resistance - no continuity). If both have continuity (ie. at least some resistance) and the ignitor is still not glowing, a problem in the control system or the rest of the electrical circuit would need to be investigated.

    An ignitor and oven valve having continuity does not necessarily that they are good, just that they're not electrically open, which is only one way that they might fail. If either has NO continuity at all (ie. infinite resistance) they are likely defective and need to be replaced.

  • jamesrated Nov 28, 2008

    gnitors do age and will eventually generate less heat than they normally should. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this occurs, gas released into the oven can result in a gas smell or sometimes even build up to the point where when finally ignited, the extra amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven.

    In the latter case, the oven should be removed from use until the condition can be looked into and corrected. DO NOT continue to use a gas appliance in such a condition!

    Pulsating Oven Flame

    It can sometimes happen that the ignitor is just on the verge of allowing the correct amperage to the oven valve, but not quite. In such a case the oven valve can repeatedly cycle open and close quickly, creating an 'pulsating' burner flame. Testing for proper amperage draw of the ignition circuit is needed to determine if a 'weak' oven ignitor may be responsible instead of an internal problem with the oven valve itself.

    Observations/tests necessary to diagnose problems

    Does the ignitor glow when the oven burner should be heating?

    If NOT glowing at all:

    Does the oven ignitor have continuity?

    Does the oven valve have continuity?

    Is the oven control system providing power to the oven components?

    If the ignitor IS glowing:

    What is the amperage draw* on the ignition circuit?

      *There is NO voltage or resistance test that will help to diagnose the cause of the problem at this point. Only an amperage test is relevant. An ignitor with a white or beige colored rectangular base should draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps. A round base or powder-blue colored rectangular base ignitor should draw 2.5 to 3.0 amps.


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Please specify your question?

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Nov 28, 2008

    If your range/oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these:

    Fuse/circuit breaker
    Main wiring
    Range/oven wiring

    Fuse/circuit breaker

    to see if power is getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn
    on--even a light? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit

    Main wiring

    the main wiring connection from the house, at the range/oven, gets
    burned and so breaks the connection. Then you may have to replace the
    power cord to the range/oven, and the terminal block that the wire is
    attached to.

    Range/oven wiring

    may be a broken or burned wire at the back of the range/oven. If you
    repair any of the wires, use only proper appliance-grade wire and wire


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