Question about HP Pavilion F1703 17" LCD Monitor

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HP LCD Monitor w1907 Blowing fuse - no display

Have disassembled screen, found blown fuse (ceramic time delay fuse) not just blown, but blew ceramic apart, too! Have replaced fuse, only to power back up and hear little 'puff' - blown immediately again (didn't even get chance to press the power switch). Obviously this is a dead short somewhere, but need some kind of guidance so as to test circuit - if anyone can help.
Thanks in advance

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  • fixya919 Dec 01, 2008

    Fix-4U:

    The scren is out of warranty - 18 months old! Typical. eh!

    Blue ESR Meter sounds interesting, will look into that. Thanks for tip.



    Kim_Cu:

    1. No visible damage I can see.

    2. It's a 240V and definitely is 240V from 5KVA UPS

    3. Nothings seems out of ordinary here.

    4. Never had a chance to SEE it running - just acquired it. No fan, I was a little concerned about the rectifier circuit, but do not know how to isolate and test without removal of many components..

    5. Yes, I've heard this - how do I identify a filter capacitor?

    1. No assumptions here - all checked out.

    2. ??



    Thanks for good suggestions guys.

    So far we can only determine it is shorting somewhere - a capcitor sounds good, but I didn't want to remove all the capacitors from the board to be able to isolate them, does this ESR meter allow one to test whilst in circuit?

    Cheers

  • Bob Morris
    Bob Morris May 11, 2010

    fixya919:



    Is your monitor less than one year old? If it is, contact HP and have the whole unit replaced under warranty. Just a thought.

    Binary Bob

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Sure, you can testing it both ways... in-circuit or out.

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

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HEY...919,
Are you sure you replaced with the right voltage or installed backward... What you need is a good meter...I recommended you get the Blue ESR/Low Ohms Meter by Ana Tek Corp.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

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1. Visual inspection of the board, wires, etc. for short (expect you have already done this)
2. Start at the source. Need a meter to test voltage coming into the system (is it really 110VAC?)
3. Then the obvious, which is not so obvious or you would have fixed it by now. Need a meter to test components. Test switch. Maybe the power swtich is shorted!? Test all other components one at a time. Including all the wires. Do any of them feel stiff or look like the insulation might have melted a bit? Might need to remove wires to isolate components to test.
4. Since the power switch is not part of the problem then it is before the switch. When it was working, did anything run while the power was off? yellow LED? fan? Components like power diodes, bridges and rectifiers are typically blown by now also.
5. A filter capacitor, usually large, when shorted internally, can be the problem. Only test for short. Must remove one lead, watch polarity.
6. You can only blow so many fuses before the real problem, which the fuse is protecting, will appear...usually a disasterous end. I blew up a power supply to a washing machine after the third fuse. It fried the whole board with a very loud pop, bright flash and fragments of shrapnel flying everywhere. Please be careful!

Troubleshooters rules:
1. When you can't find the problem you are looking in the wrong place. Look somewhere else. Suspect everything, even the smallest detail is often the real problem. Like, what have you ruled out? Did you already assume the switch was good, the wire from the wall was good, the outlet was good, the power was good?
2. When you don't know what else to do, do something. Deliberately break something to see what will happen. (This is not a rule that I would use in this case but might serve you well in troubleshooting other problems in the future.)

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • Kim Parker
    Kim Parker Dec 01, 2008

    ok...good start...elimination of possible problems. The ESR meter seems to be ok but, as the documentation states: "...it's quite useless for identifying leaky and short-circuited capacitors; that's what the resistance ranges of normal multimeters are for! ".



    A filter capacitor is electrolytic and can be identified by a cylindrical shape. Typically the largest cylindrical shape on the board. Typically "radial" (standing up on the board with the leads through the board and soldered on the rear). The capacitor will have a very large minus sign and stripe down one side. If it is soldered to the board and is "radial" (laying flat on the board with the leads coming out both ends) then you might not see the stripe - it will be underneath the cap and the board.

    It will also be very large in size...typically 1000, 2000, 4000 or even 6000mfd (or ufd - actually "mu"fd) if you can read the numbers printed on it.



    Test: using the meter on ohms, touch both leads while it is in the board. If the meter reads "0" ohms then it is probably shorted. Reverse the leads and test again...another 0? Shorted. Otherwise you will need the Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) tester. From the description of your problem, a cap is shorted. Ordinarily there will be one large one for the major power and smaller ones for each of the output voltages needed for the system.



    Good luck.

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