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Re: Rough idle ON 97 FORD MECURY
The problem may be a buildup of carbon or fuel varnish deposits in the idle speed control valve (also called the idle air control valve or IAC valve). The cure for this condition is to clean the valve with some aerosol throttle cleaner or engine top cleaner. disconnect the air ductwork from the throttle body. Start the car and run at about 1500 rpms spray the cleaner directly into the throat of the throttle body. Turn off the engine and let sit for a few minutes. Then repeat the process a couple of times. if that does not work, you can remove the IAC and clean it by spraying into the two holes on the underside of the valve. If not, then you need to replace the valve.If that does not work , then check for a code. the throttle position sensor may be the problem. you can have it scanned at an AutoZone or other parts store.
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Install a heavy-duty ground strap from your engine block to the battery, or check the existing ground connections. Think of the engine block as your primary "antenna" to catch positively-charged radio frequency interference -- aka electromagnetic or EMI -- energy; a solid ground connection will allow the block, valve covers and connected components to catch much of the RFI before it leaves the engine bay. This is especially crucial for engines that use coil-on-plug ignition, since the cylinder heads are completely responsible for capturing RFI generated between the ignition coils and spark plugs.
There are feedbacks to the remote controller unit and if there is fault of feeback from the ignition pulse, the handbrake or the RPM then the remote system can shut down.
So check the feedback from these sections to the unit. Also check the idling speed as it must be more to sustain the engine idling and iff the AC is also powered. If not reset and retune the engine to idle with ease.
The "idle speed control valve" also known as "idle air control valve”. If this has not been looked at, try cleaning or replacing it. This will not always generate a fault in the E.C.U.but if faulty or dirty(sticking)it will give you erratic idling and high C O readings. So it is suggested to look is the Idle Speed Control Valve, which predominantly helps smooth engine speed under slight load and when slowing down at lights.The valve in question often gets clogged with carbon, and while it is controlled by the engine management computer the buildup of carbon can affect its ability to operate correctly. It's usually a fairly easy process to locate remove and clean the valve. It's the cheapest place to start and there's a good chance it will fix the problem.The air flow meter (or sensor) would induce a diagnostic fault code in the engine's computer if it were to have a problem. This may not always be the case however which makes it that much trickier to diagnose. There should be test procedures to conduct on the air flow metre to confirm a fault, so a more definite diagnosis (rather than a could be this, could be that scenario) is needed here.
I would recommend taking the car to a Nissan agent, as they have probably dealt with this issue before. Expect a higher hourly charge, but they should have the background and specialised equipment to quickly pinpoint the fault.
Idle control on the road is different to idle control at standstill. With no load, the butterfly plate in the throttle allows sufficient air to bypass when it's closed to maintain a constant idle speed.
This is a setting that should not be touched once set from the factory. Generally an idle fault is just that, a fault, no adjustment will solve the problem.
Let us know if you have something more to know else accept the suggestion.
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Check/change the #4 plug. Make sure the gap is right, ceramic not broken, and that the plug wire is on correctly.(both ends) Did you use dielectric gel when you installed the plugs? Good idea to use it.
It sounds like either your ECU (Electronic Control Unit) is going out. This causes Fuel/ Air mixture problems, and a loss of power. Or you have a faulty/ clogged PVC. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) I would start by replacing the PVC, as it is cheaper and faster. If it's not, you would have only spent $5 or less. PVC problems are only apparent under load, and usually result in a loss of power and performance, but don't hamper the vehicle from idling. If it was your ECU you will hear the engine choke when you rev it up, even in neutral and it most likely would have problems idling. ECU problems also have a tenancy to make RPM gauges bounce around. However, they usually make the RPM spike upward, instead of down, but it is still possible. And lastly, a faulty ECU is supposed to trigger the check engine light, so if you don't have one on, try the PVC.