Question about Frigidaire Kitchen Ranges
The last three episodes of using the oven (Frigidaire Elements Range Model LES389FEA) at 350 has resulted in burnt food. Although I do not have a thermometer to place in the oven, the generated heat feels in excess of 500. I threw the breaker for the range/oven hoping the electronics might need to be reset. However, the oven still overheats. The oven element was replaced 6-9 months ago and there were no problems with the unit until this week.
Hey Rellis, cut off the breaker,,, now check to make sure ALL the element connections are TIGHT,, ..loose connections cause excess resistance, excess resistance causes excess voltage = too hot unit!
If this doesn't help... >?
Posted on Jun 25, 2017
U might want to replace the thermostat since it appears to not be working properly.
Posted on Jun 25, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: FRIDGIDAIRE RANGE
It is most likely the pop came from a relay on the control board if the elements checked ok but not getting power to them. This is fairly common on fridgidaire ranges. Replace the oven control. Usually the control overlay is sold as a separate piece.
Posted on Nov 12, 2007
although you dont have hte model number , that is indeed a correct and valid part number for the control lists for a about $120. since your back there give a quick look at the wiring into the unit, is that ok ??? adn where the burnout is on the control does it appear to have shorted out against the back wall??? perhaps a relay on the board just blew??? i really wouldn't thinkn tha another component was goning to make that go bad, also ck the bake and broil elements for continuity, perhapa wire fell off the element blowing out the control
Posted on Mar 20, 2008
open the bottom drawer and get the model number off the serial plate on the left hand side i think its a slide in with the controls on front
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though
Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Posted on May 23, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
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