I've checked the coils inside the freezer for ice and found some,after defrost and switching back on, after a while I found the fan working ok.But the temp remains just under fridge temp level and the red light remains on, even with fast freeze switched on. Help?
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Re: The red light remains on...
The coils should have a nice white frost pattern evenly on the coils (no solid ice block sort of thing). If there is very little frost, or say just chunk of ice in one spot, then you may have a leak in the system where the refrigerant has leaked out.
The fan above the coils should be on when the compressor is running to circulate the cold air.
It does sound like you may have a sealed system leak and there's just not enough refrigerant to flash into a gas for proper cooling. Check on these items and get back to us.
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Check for ice / frosting inside the freezer .... If present you probably have a defrost problem.... This causes the freezer coil to ice up and block the air flow ... the causes could be a bad defrost heater , defrost timer, defrost sensors, or control board. Also make sure that the condenser coil is clean. remove ALL dust with a vacuum and a coil brush .the coil is located either on the bottom or on the back side of the unit... You didn't give the Make and model #
Sounds to me you may have a defrost failure. In most cases the fresh food compartment will show signs first but your model has an auto damper that may be causing the fresh food section to remain cold. Do you notice frost build up on the rear inside back panel of the freezer? Example HERE. If you do you will need to manually defrost the freezer, remove the rear panel of the freezer and use a hair dryer to melt the ice covering the evaporator coils. Example of ice/frost build up on the evaporator coils HERE The most likely cause for the problem is a defective=> 12002495 Defrost Control Board The defrost board is found inside the fresh food section and inside the control panel. Item 12 in this photo HERE is the defrost control board. Second possibility is the=> 67004948 Defrost Heater Item 7 in photo HERE and is the 67004757 Defrost Thermostat and that item location 3HERE First the defrost control board needs to be checked for burn marks or signs of heat damage. I am here if you would like me to help you get to the parts I listed above, Thanks Sea Breeze
You can fix this, just follow the procedure given to enable get back your refrigerator going, Check the temperature setting Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the freezer or freezer Check for air flow restrictions in vents Test the temperature control Clean the condensor coils Check the door seals Test the door switch Test defrost heater Test defrost timer Test evaporator fan Check for a clogged drain tube Check for refrigerant leak Freezer is too cold
Check the temperature setting Test the temperature control Freezer is noisy
Hissing and popping is normal, it is the defrost heater. Check that the freezer is level Check the drain pan Check the condensor fan Check the evaporator fan Inspect the compressor mounts Freezer runs continuously
Defrost the freezer Clean the condensor coils Check the door seals Freezer starts and stops frequently
Clean the condensor coils Check the outlet voltage Test the condensor fan Test the compressor relay Test the overload protector Test the compressor motor Freezer does not defrost automatically
Test the defrost timer Test the defrost heater Test the defrost thermostat Freezer has an unpleasant odor
Remove spoiled food Clean freezer interior with a solution of h Clean freezer interior with a solution of hot water and baking soda Clean the door seals Remove breaker strips and check for wet insulation Water on floor outside of freezer
Check the drain pan If you have an ice-maker, check the water supply hose going into and coming out of the water inlet valve Water inside the freezer
Check for a clogged drain tube If you have an ice-maker, check freezer and ice-maker for level
I hope this will help in solving the problem......
Your cooling coils have frosted so much that there is ice forming allover the cooling coils and preventing the actual cooling inthe fridge. First of all shut off the fridge for about 10 hours and wait for all the ice to defrost. Clean up your fridge well and then check inside of the freezer compartment for break in wiring, failure of the heater or the thermostat. Now put the fridge on and see if the cooling comes back.If the set works ok then dont worry till you experience the same fault coming back. In this case your auto defrost timer could be faulty as it is not doing the 8 hours cycle defrosting. Check this out test and replace . Get help if you are not familiar. good day
Take a look inside the freezer at the back wall. See if there is ice built up on it. If you have ice or frost on the panel, you either have a bad fan are you having a defrost problem. If I had to guess I would say a defrost problem. Unplug the fridge and remove the panel. Use a hair dryer to defrost the ice. There is a coil inside the ice so DO NOT TRY TO CHIP THE ICE OUT. just take the time and defrost it. After that is done, if you know how to use a multi-meter. You can check the heaters (Found inside the coils) to see if they have continuity. I would bet they don't. If I'm correct, you will need to replace the heater. Until you get the part or have someone to repair it, you can replace the panel, plug it back in and your fridge will work normally for around three days or until the coil builds ice back on it. This will give you time to either fix it or have someone to take care of it for you.
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model thumbs up
HI, Your auto defrost cycle has gone bad. Remove the rear inside freezer panel and check continuity on the defrost heater and bi-metal switch. The bi-metal has to be cold when testing it. If both parts show continuity, you will need to change the defrost timer. I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
The defrost system is not doing it's job. I bet if you took the panel off below the fan you will see more ice on the cooling coils. There should be a light coat of frost on the coils but not a heavy ice build up. There is a heating element at the bottom area of these coils which should be defrosting all this ice.
1. A defrost timer turns this heating element on.
2. The heating element melts the ice.
3. A thermo disc attached to the coils will turn the heater off.
bulmer...it takes about two days to fully defrost these units unless you take the freezer section cover off and use a heat source. If you do...be sure to protect yourself against water and electricity mixing....not healthy. See below for another note.
clean the condenser coils below the unit.
check for the amount of gas in the unit. It must be off for half an hour. Remove the back fiber panel. The big thing is the compressor. Clean off the largest pipe coming out of it. Plug the unit in...watch out for the fan! The pipe should frost up and then clear off or stay wet after about 5 minutes. It should not be frosty. If it is, you need refrigerant.
Note: If you do remove the inside freezer panel and defrost, you can see how much refrigerant you have in your unit. Start the unit. Wait 5 minutes and observe the coils. They should be evenly frosted end to end. If approximately so, you're good. If not, you're low on gas.