What's your problem?motor 2.0 h.p.p.

I don\'t know, but change the switch or bypass it. They give plenty of problems & motor would start sometimes & not others.....Check the oil & rely on old style tech. I bypassed the switch on both of mine.after they gave problems & wouldn\'t run when needed....I only got a second one when I needed power & the switch was the only thing wrong ( I found this out too late.) & ended up with 2....

there are 2 heater core **** at the back of the motor .are they hot .you have to let it run to see if they gety hot . they get hot then you have a bad or stuck blend door motor

1) adjust the speed sensor, clean it, and tight the plug very well
2) measure the input voltage motor, if there the motor need repair
see my personal TIPS
3) measure the voltage output board, for input voltage motor, if there are NOT the board is faulty.
see the diagram.
God bless you

It's either the fuse, heating element, thermal cut-off or thermostat

Dryer will not run
1. No power--check fuse & power supply
2. Loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
3. Door switch--make certain door closed properly to actuate switch
4. Defective motor---check motor.
5. Defective timer---replace timer

Runs but will not heat
1.loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
2. Defective thermostat--replace thermostat
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor--replace switch (check linkage to motor)
4. Defective timer--replace timer
5. Open heater element---replace heater element
6. Heat switch set to off----set switch for desired heat

more than likely....blower motor resistor, normally located next to blower motor passenger
side under dash 2 screws & a plug

It doesn't sound like you are getting a true 230 volts to the timer. Measure from terminal 1 to terminal 3. You should read 230 volts. If you are getting 230 volts between 1 and 3, return the timer, it's defective. If you are not getting 230 between 1 and 3, then you'll have to have a look inside the electric panel to see what has been miswired. There should be a 2 pole breaker with a white and a black wire connected to it that goes out to the timer.

the fast ticking sound you are refering to sounds like the solenoid on your starter motor. that's how they let you know they're faulty & yes will need to be replaced if you want your car to start. it's quick & easy to get at from under the car only. you will need to jack up the car or park over a garage pit. which ever method you choose, be safe, & block your vehicle. there are 2 bolts to remove. first, disconect the battery. now disconect the ''red'' + wire off the solenoid & the ignition wire plug. the bottom bolt is easy but the top bolt you will need a10'' long by 1/2'' drive extention on your ratchet to reach it & remove it. a gentle tap with a rubber hammer will do the trick.once down, you can now remove the solenoid, replace it, test the starter first, & now put it back in the same way it came out. by putting in the bottom bolt first, it will be easier to realine the starter motor into place. DO NOT over tighten the bolts or the + conection terminals. always tork if you can. reconnect battery & away you go. hope my experience helps.

There's a switch ( kinda same shape, color & operation method as your power seat switches) behind driver's seat near the 2 Boot/Top 'release' pull tabs,, it's mounted on the "roof" of the open compartment area behind the seats. Slide your hand along there til you feel it. It recycles the pull-down motor up & down & should release the top. Also try in the trunck, there's 2 hard plastic strings with loops at end,, pull & see if it releases it.