Question about Ovens

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Frigidaire Model FEFL78CSA oven not heating

Hi,
Seen one of your solutions on Fixya. Neither element(bake or broil) are working. I was told it is probably the ERC. The stovetop burners work, oven light works, and the element conections are all good. the oven is probably about 5 years old. Is this control fairly easy to replace? I am handy repairing appliances so I feel confident that I could replace it, but I can't find any manuals or instructions to do this. Can you help?
Thanks Rick

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  • tiekx6 Dec 10, 2008

    Thanks for the support. The response was quick(especially since it was Thanksgiving Eve). Your solution confirmed my guess and everything is working fine on my oven by replacing the ECR. I got my replacement part from Appliancepartspro.com. They were a little bit cheaper than Searspartsdirect.com and they shipped my part in 2 days. Thanks for your help.



    Rick

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I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. I tried to respond to your question yesterday, but the web link was not working. Your assumptions are probably correct as the ERC controls all the oven features on an electric range. This is a fairly simple repair job that any do-it-yourselfer can accomplish.

The ERC is easily accessed by removing the back panel of the operator console. The circuit board is screwed in place with a series of wire connectors. Most models have the wire color coding printed on the circuit board for ease of identification. In addition, there should be a wiring diagram located either inside the console, or on the back of the range. This will also list the color codes. If not, I would recommend you label all wiring BEFORE removing to ensure everything is reconnected correctly (a digital camera can come in handy as well).

New ERCs generally do not come with the overlay. This is the plastic printed face-piece that covers the front of the board with all your controls and numbers. Some manufacturers provide this with the new ERC, but MOST do not. The existing one can be reused by carefully removing and reinstalling to the new ERC. You may consider ordering an overlay too if yours is in bad shape.

You can order a replacement at searspartsdirect.com. Pcappliancerepair.com also carries the part for just a few cents cheaper. I recommend the sears website for the helpful exploded view illustrations. Just type in your model number and look under the "Backguard" heading for item number 20 (part #316207529). The overlay is listed as item 20A (part #316220804). If you wish to save a little and order from the other website, use the part numbers provided by Sears for your search criteria as I could not find your model number listed.

Please ensure you UNPLUG the appliance before servicing. No special tools are required. If you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Dec 10, 2008

    Glad I could be of assistance. I will have to remember that web site you used. Could be a good resource in the future.

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I have a Fridgidaire Model # PLEB30S8CCC wall oven. The broiler works fine. The oven is very slow to heat up, 20 minutes to reach 250. I checked the lower element with a omp meter it read 20. Is that...


Hello there and than you for choosing Fixya
If your oven does not heat, does not heat enough or does not broil, a common cause is a burned out heating element. There are two elements, the baking element on the floor of the oven and the broiling element on the ceiling of the oven. They are about the diameter of a pencil and typically supported by metal stand-offs.
This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.
When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.
There are other possible causes of these symptoms, refer to our diagnostic page for some other possibilities.
To test the heating element using a multimeter, follow the steps provided below.
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  2. Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.
  3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.
  4. Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.
  5. Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.
  6. Disconnect the wires from the element.
  7. Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.
  8. If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and resecure the element.

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Since the oven has two heating elements, if the oven does not heat up on any condition, and both broiling and baking element are not working, then the most common fault causing the problem is a faulty temperature probe.

The temperature probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line on the circuit from electronic oven control to baking and broiling element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reaching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

If only one element is failing, then the fault is probably the element. In that case you can test the element removing it from the cavity, and testing Ohms on the element. If circuit is open , then the element must be replaced.

Regards.

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Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

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Dear Dupe,

please rate this solution if it mends up ur needs,else choose fixya,


please do the following checks,

  • Reseat the element
  • Test the element
  • Test the element connectors
  • Check the thermometer bulb
  • Test the oven temperature control
  • Test the oven selector control
  • Recalibrate the temperature control

  • please rate this solution if it mends up ur needs,else choose fixya.Thank you

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