Question about Simmons Mattress Matino - Natural Maple Crib

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Simmons Model # 221061

Hi I need:
1- Metal stabilizing bar
2- Lower Sping Bracket left and right.

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  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: "Metal stabilizing bar" for Simmons Easy Side Crib (from 2000)

You can call Products America at 800-205-9642 or 800-772-1041. They offer a wide verity of hardware for many cribs.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

CribParts
  • 340 Answers

SOURCE: Stabilizing bar bracket and lower brackets for a

Hello! This is Products America! We are the crib hardware specialist. If you are referring to a latch bracket, this system is no longer being made. We may be able to convert you to a hand release. If you would like to see, please call when you are with the crib. As long as the crib is not under any recall, hopefully we can help you. We are open M-F 8 am-6 pm CST. Our phone number is 800-205-9642 or 800-772-1041. We look forward to speaking with you!

Please check out our website at www.productsamerica.com.

Posted on Aug 06, 2010

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What does the control arm on the front left driver side supposed to look like fully assembled


Hello! First diagram is the lower...Second is the upper..Guru...saailer

LOWER IDENTIFICATION:




Item
Part Number Description 1
5495 Stabilizer Bar Link Bolt and Bushing Assembly 2
18A192 Nut, Washer and Bushing Assembly 3
808264 Bolt 4
5005 Frame 5
5B326 Torsion Bar (LH) 6
5B327 Torsion Bar (RH) 7
620481 Nut 8
5C491 Nut and Washer 9
3079 Front Suspension Lower Arm (LH) 10
3078 Front Suspension Lower Arm (RH) 11
3A130 Tie Rod End 12
808166 Nut 13
808167 Nut 14
5K483 Front Stabilizer Bar Link 15
5482 Front Stabilizer Bar 16
5484 Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing 17
3B353 Front Stabilizer Retainer 18
N807396-S100 Bolt A
- Tighten to 40-55 Nm
(30-40 Lb-Ft) B
- Tighten to 150-200 Nm (111-148 Lb-Ft) C
- Tighten to 21-29 Nm
(15-21 Lb-Ft)


UPPER IDENTIFICATION:
Item Part Number Description 1 3C156 Damper Assembly (RH) 2 805348 Nut and Washer 3 - Shock Absorber Insulator
(Part of 18198) 4 3C157 Damper Assembly (LH) 5 3020 Front Suspension Bumper 6 3083 Front Suspension Upper Arm Assembly A - Tighten to 34-47 Nm
(25-35 Lb-Ft)



LOWER DIAGRAM FOLLOWED BY UPPER:

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Feb 12, 2012 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

I have a deniese austin manual treadmill and do not know how to open it


Dear Sir:

Thank you by your request, I will help you inmediately.

1) Unpack the carton. Place Main frame and Running track on a flat level floor.
Attach the post left and right onto the Main frame withthe Screw.

2)Attach the STABILIZER Stand with the post lef and right before mentioned 1) onto the main frame annd tightly secured with Screw/Nut.

3) Raise UP the post Left +Right mentioned Before in the section 1)

4) Inser the Handle Bar left +Right in the front Handle bar, then onto the post Left and Right mentioned into the section 1)

5) Put the computer unit onto the fron Handle Bar with Screw.

6) Raise the Main Frame and Running Track up, attach adjustable Rod with Screw Nut and lik Stabilizer stand tightly secure with screw nut.
Warning: On folding up the running track, do make sure que the pin lock knob are porperly enganged and securely tghten to prevent accident.
To unfold, Pin lock simply loose to pull out Knob and gently lower the Running Track.and Ready.

Thank you in advance, sincerely. God bless you.

If you need further assistance, please contact me

E.CUADRA
MANAGUA, NICARAGUA. C.A.

Sep 28, 2011 | Exercise & Fitness

3 Answers

There is a squeek in the front end, Just put new brakes in but it still squeeks. Could this be a CV joint or a Bearing? The noise is present with or without the brake s applied. There is no vibration and...


worn CV joints "click," but only upon turning.
worn bearings "grind," with a faint metal-on-metal sound.
So, squeaking in the front end is unlikely to be a CV joint or a bearing.
Squeak could be almost any front suspension component, but here's the reason to stop
guessing what it is and jack up the car, remove the two front tires and inspect the
front suspension: it could be a bolt/nut
that is loosening - and by catching it, and tightening it, you could save yourself the cost of
replacing the missing hardware. Also, be aware that an inspecting mechanic (if your state or
county requires a safety inspection (like Pennsylvania)) will inspect all components of your car's
front suspension as a routine component of your car's safety inspection.
Also:

1-----Inspect----- Coil Spring----- Broken or Weak Coil Springs.
2-----Inspect----- Sway Bar Bushing----- Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Stabilizer Bar Bushings.
3-----Inspect----- Steering Stabilizer Bracket----- Loose or Broken Steering Stabilizer Bracket.
4-----Inspect-----lower ball joints-----Loose bolt/rubber bushing to lower control arm.
5-----Inspect-----Upper Ball Joints-----Loose bolt/missing rubber bushing.
6-----Inspect-----Connecting Rods-----(these are the rods that connect the lower control arm to the
front of the frame) Check for loose nut (on the frame side), or loose bolts (on the control arm side).

May 22, 2011 | Saturn Vue Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Remove and replace Front Sway bar


Hello ggagne.
Here is the procedure.

  1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
  3. Remove the pinch bolt from the lower intermediate steering shaft
  4. Loosen all insulator clamp attaching bolts.
  5. Place a jack stand under the center of the rear frame cross member.
  6. Remove the rear frame-to-body bolts.
  7. Lower the rear of the frame just enough to gain access to the stabilizer shaft.
  8. Remove the insulator clamp bolts and the clamps from the frame.
  9. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer bar.
  10. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the control arms.
  11. Pull the stabilizer shaft rearward.
Installation
  1. Insert the stabilizer shaft to the left side of the vehicle. Important: DO NOT tighten the stabilizer link nut at this time. The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the control arms such that you can obtain the vehicle design trim heights before tightening the link nut.
  2. Loosely install the stabilizer shaft link at the control arm.
  3. Install the insulators on to the stabilizer bar.
  4. Connect the insulator clamps to the frame.
    • Tighten the stabilizer shaft bracket bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
  5. Raise the frame into position while you guide the steering shaft onto the gear.
  6. Install the new frame-to-body attaching bolts.
  7. Remove the jack stand.
  8. Install the pinch bolt and tighten.
  9. Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Support the weight of the vehicle by the control arms.
  12. Tighten the stabilizer link nut.
    • Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
There you are, I hope your job goes well.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

Nov 13, 2010 | 2002 Buick Century

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Replace broken sway bar for a 1996 ford windstar


Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
    Using care not to damage the front stabilizer bar link ball stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut.




  1. Using care not to damage the front stabilizer ball link stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front stabilizer bar nut.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage the ball joint boot.
    With another set of support safety stands under front sub-frame, remove two rear sub-frame retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front sub-frame to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets (5486).
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar bracket bolts, stabilizer bar brackets, stabilizer bar bracket insulators and front stabilizer bar (5482) as required.
Installation
  1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and contamination in area of stabilizer bar bracket insulator installation position.
  1. Lubricate inside diameter of new stabilizer bar bracket insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A or equivalent. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber stabilizer bar bracket insulators.
  1. Install new stabilizer bar bracket insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
  1. Install stabilizer bar bracket on stabilizer bar bracket insulators and install new bolts. Tighten to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
  1. Raise front sub-frame and install new front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts. Tighten to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
  1. Install front stabilizer bar link (5K483) to front shock absorber. Use care not to damage link ball joint boot seal.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
    Install a new front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut. Tighten to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).

  2. 66a0f1a.gif

Apr 28, 2010 | 1996 Ford Windstar

2 Answers

"Metal stabilizing bar" for Simmons Easy Side Crib (from 2000)


You can call Products America at 800-205-9642 or 800-772-1041. They offer a wide verity of hardware for many cribs.

Nov 12, 2009 | Simmons Mattress EasySide Crib

1 Answer

How to remove front stabilizer bar in '05 Scion TC


I don't know if you can get the bushings out without changing the bar or not, but changing the bar is a big job for a DIY. I was thinking about it but will probably have a pro do it for me. From the shop manual: 1. PLACE FRONT WHEEL FACING STRAIGHT AHEAD 2. REMOVE COLUMN HOLE COVER SILENCER SHEET (See page SR-9) 3. DISCONNECT NO. 2 STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT ASSEMBLY (See page PS-21) 4. DISCONNECT NO. 1 STEERING COLUMN HOLE COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY 5. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL 6. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER LH 7. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH 8. REMOVE FRONT STABILIZER LINK ASSEMBLY LH (a) Remove the 2 nuts and front stabilizer link LH. HINT: Use a 6 mm hexagon wrench to hold the stud if the ball joint turns together with the nut. 9. REMOVE FRONT STABILIZER LINK ASSEMBLY RH HINT: Use the same procedures described for the LH side. 10. DISCONNECT TIE ROD END SUB-ASSEMBLY LH (See page DS-6) 11. DISCONNECT TIE ROD END SUB-ASSEMBLY RH (See page PS-21) 12. DISCONNECT PRESSURE FEED TUBE ASSEMBLY (See page PS-21) 13. DISCONNECT FRONT SUSPENSION NO. 1 LOWER ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY LH (See page SP-22) 14. DISCONNECT FRONT SUSPENSION NO. 1 LOWER ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY RH HINT: Use the same procedures described for the LH side. 15. REMOVE FRONT FLOOR PANEL BRACE (See page EX-2) 16. REMOVE CENTER EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY (See page EX-2) 17. REMOVE HOOD SUB-ASSEMBLY 18. REMOVE NO. 1 ENGINE COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY 19. SUSPEND ENGINE ASSEMBLY (See page MX-19) 20. REMOVE NO. 1 HOOK (See page PS-22) 21. REMOVE FRONT SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER SUB-ASSEMBLY (See page PS-22) 22. REMOVE FRONT NO. 1 STABILIZER BRACKET LH (a) Remove the 2 bolts and front No. 1 stabilizer bracket LH from the suspension crossmember. 23. REMOVE FRONT NO. 1 STABILIZER BRACKET RH HINT: Use the same procedures described for the LH side. 24. REMOVE FRONT NO. 1 STABILIZER BAR BUSH (a) Remove the 2 No. 1 stabilizer bar bushes from the stabilizer bar. 25. REMOVE FRONT STABILIZER BAR
You can download the manual online for about $15. Well worth it.

Jun 30, 2009 | Scion TC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need the rear shock torque specs for a 2007 sport trac


Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft lb-in Brake caliper bolt 32 24 — Brake disc shield bolt 8 — 71 Fuel tank filler pipe bracket bolt 15 11 — Fuel tank filler pipe hose clamps 3 — 27 Halfshaft nut and washer 275 203 — Lower arm inboard bolt 250 185 — Lower arm outboard bolt 275 203 — Parking brake cable bracket bolt 10 — 89 Shock absorber lower bolt 275 203 — Shock absorber rod nut 65 48 — Shock absorber upper mount nut 30 22 — Stabilizer bar bracket nut 48 35 — Stabilizer bar link nut and grommet 30 22 — Toe link cam adjuster nut 275 203 — Toe link outboard bolt 325 240 — Trailing arm bolt 300 222 — Upper arm outboard bolt 225 166 — Upper arm inboard nut 250 185 — Wheel speed sensor bolt 8 — 71 Wheel knuckle bolt 275 203 —

Mar 30, 2009 | 2007 Ford Sport Trac Limited

1 Answer

Front spring and shock assembly diagram


d4f5461.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 5310 Front Coil Spring 2 18124 Front Shock Absorber 3 3A130 Tie Rod End 4 1104 Wheel Hub 5 3K185 Front Wheel Knuckle 6 3078 Front Suspension Lower Arm 7 5482 Front Stabilizer Bar 8 5K484 Stabilizer Bar Link 9 N806899-S60 Bolt (4 Req'd) 10 5486 Stabilizer Bar Bracket 11 5484 Rack and Pinion Mounting Bracket Insulator (2 Req'd) (Position Slits Toward Front of Vehicle) 12 W520214-S60 Nut (2 Req'd) 13 N807144-S60 Nut (2 Req'd) 14 N803990-S60 Bolt (2 Req'd) 15 N806364-S60 Nut (2 Req'd) 16 N808466-S428 Nut (2 Req'd) 17 N808391-S100 Bolt (2 Req'd) 18 N807089-S101 Nut (2 Req'd) 19 W500746-S426 Bolt (2 Req'd) 20 W520214-S60 Nut (2 Req'd) 21 N804608-S1428 Nut (2 Req'd) 22 N804002-S100 Washer (2 Req'd) (Dished Side Up) 23 18183 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket (2 Req'd) 24 3B455 Front Suspension Bearing and Seal (2 Req'd) 25 N811008-S100 Washer (2 Req'd)(Dished Side Up) 26 N803766-S60 Nut (6 Req'd) A — Install With Color Code at Bottom of Link — Green—RH Side, Red—LH Side B — Tighten to 30-40 Nm (22-29 Lb-Ft) C — Notches and Stamped "Front" Toward Front Of Vehicle D — Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 53-72 Nm (39-53 Lb-Ft)

Dec 30, 2008 | 1995 Ford Taurus

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