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Re: need to remove case of hotpoint wma 63
The drum comes out through the front on this one.Take off kick plate and remove screws holding front panel to frame. Take out soap drawer & remove screws behind it. Take off band holding door seal & peel seal back.Remove 2 screws holding door lock &push lock through. Pull control panel forward at left side &slide to right to remove being carefull with board & wiring.Remove screws holding top end of front then lift slightly &remove front.Remove back panel &take wiring off heating element & pump. Disconnect the pump hose at the drum end, disconnect the hose from the soap dispenser, note that wiring is fastened to the drum at several points and will need to be disconnected. Remove panel from behind control board then carefully move everything away from the front of the machine, the drum can now be lifted clear.
Forgot to mention unplugging motor but common sense will prevail.
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#1. A wheel bearing should not lock up the rear end. #2. Sounds like you have a far worse problem, probably in the differential. To replace the wheel bearing you need to remove the diff cover, take out the spider gear pin remove the locking c clip and remove the axle. Obviously the left rear wheel and rotor and caliper have to be removed as well. then the bearing ,which is pressed into the housing needs to be removed. If the bearing is that bad the axle will need to be replaced as well.
may have something stuck between the inner and outer drum......
socks tights and womens skimpies very easily slip down at the bottem door seal....
afraid the machine needs a total strip down if this is the case. remove the door
and front panels, the drum has a front cover held on by a number of clips.....
remove all clips take cover off....find said item and put back together
shouldnt take more than an hour..
if it isnt that,.then rear bearing could be shot at,, sorry
Removed lower rear panel of washer.
Undo 2 screws securing motor to outer drum casing, unplug motor lead and remove motor, brushes ar e located at the end of the motor furthest away from the motor pulley.
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE SOCKET this is a messy job, you will need to remove the lid remove the front of the machine 2 -3 screws behind the clip on pannel front bottom I cant rember if the front hangs on two lugs one either side or if there are acouple of screws behind the faceplate, you will need to disconnect the door safty switch (make note of the wire positions), remove the wire band that clamps the door seal to the outer drum, now you should be able to see the drum and the drum outer casing, you will neeed to remove the access panel from the rear of the machine and if the belt has not already come off remove it , you notice a large nut holding the flywheel on inspect closely as there may be some securing tags (large washer with folded edges stopping the nut from comming undone ) remove nut , you will now need to remove the drum from the front of the machine using a peice of wood place on shaft and strike it with a heavy hammer or a mallet do not worry about damaging the shaft as you will need to replace this as well as the bearings as when bearings fail it is normaly to do with water getting to the bearing and corroding them (rust) untill they give up this normally damages the shaft, once the shaft is removed if you look through to shaft hole you will see the outer casing of the beaings thease need to be removed normally by tapping out (not always easy)there are two one at fromt one at back the back one is removed from inside the drum front removed from rear of machine , once this is all clear you are ready to the reverse putting it all together, the bearing kit should contain all you need to replace the bearings including the spider ( the three legged fitting that connects to the drum and has the shaft on it) when replacing the bearings make sure that where the old bearings come out of is nice and clean (fine sanpaper to remove small high spots) i use vaselene to aid bearing seating , using a rubber mallet genlely tap the edge of the bearing into place (never hit the center of the bearing as you could damage the seal and or the bearing) when the bearings are in smear some grease onto the shaft and rfit, a bearing kit trade is about 20 uk pounds
working from the front using mole grips get hold of the suspension peg now feel round the back you should feel a raised part of the peg this has to be depressed now pull the peg out if it gets stuck push back 5mm and try again repeat on other side life the springs out with the drum
hope that helps
If it is you have two options:
1 - Buy another washing machine
2 - DIY possible for about £30 with all the RIGHT TOOLS, £100 if doing it properly. And even with the right tools this will take you about 3 hours, probably more.
To replace the bearings you NEED to have:
1) The parts - The replacement bearing kit (£30) and hotpoint recommend a new spider (£65) as well.
2) A tool to push the drum shaft from the casing.
3) A tool to remove the beaings. It is possible to buy a new rear casing with the bearings already fitted for about £70.
4) Patience and a supply of tea!
1 - disconnect everything and I mean everything see number 2.
2 - remove the drum casing from the chasis
3 - take off the pulley wheel
4 - open the casing
5 - remove the drum from the casing. DO NOT USE A HAMMER as the shaft deforms very easily (good job I've a new "spider"!)
6 - fit new "spider" if using. Here is where you find the bolts are rusted completely solid from spider to drum and require drilling out.
7 - remove bearings from casing (hence the need for the bearing removal tool)
8 - fit new bearings and rebuild machine (hence the need for the bearing fitting tool)
However I stopped at number 7 due to not having the right tools and I have no idea how much the right tools cost.
Trust me, take option one! £100 is a third of a new machine!
Hi, I also have the bearing problem on a hotpoint wma and have just stated the repair job. I have found the following on different forums, so maybe it might help others. You do need to remove the drum and there are two different sizes of bearings 30mm and 35mm. To find the size you need you have to get to the bearings and measure them.
. Ok,Hotpoint wma series drum bearing failure.Firstly very common problem since i work on these things every day-i think there is a design fault-nothing new in this trade!What follows is
the sequence of problems in changing the drum bearings:If the machine has been thrashed into oblivion just changing the oilseal/bearings will have you back to square one within a
couple of months since you would`ve damaged the drum shaft as the bigger bearing of the 2 goes into shapnell mode!So you`d best change the drum shaft(in the trade known as the
spider) however this thing is aluminium usually held onto the the drum via torx headed screws either in steel or soft Al2 also-forget it as your not going to get these out unless your mega
lucky,what we do at work is to replace the whole tank/drum/bearing assembly which comes with a new element and belt ie the whole tank unit,the trade price of this part is less than
£100.00-you can draw your own conclusions as to the retail price as you wish.If you haven`t thrashed the machine you can get away with replacing just the bearings or easier still the rear
half of the tank(trade price 30.00+vat) in which the bearings are already fitted via the factory and reuse the existing spider/drum shaft so long as it isn`t damaged by disintergrated bearing
shapnell.I hope this clears up this problem for you.Please note that this machine`s filter which is at the rear doubles up as the air trap-the oval section 8" long semi transpatent plastic tube
thing-the part that allows the water to compress the air so turning off the level of fill at the right level via the round swt behind the soap dispenser-called the pressure swt-if the filter gets
bunged up the machine o/fills and either overfills or overfills and floods or tries to spin with aload of water still inside the drum or perhaps no spin at all.Hope this helps someone.
The drum comes out through the front on this one. Take off kick plate and remove screws holding front panel to frame. Take out soap drawer & remove screws behind it. Take off band
holding door seal & peel seal back. Remove 2 screws holding door lock &push lock through. Pull control panel forward at left side & slide to right to remove being careful with board &
wiring.Remove screws holding top end of front then lift slightly &remove front.Remove back panel & take wiring off heating element & pump. Disconnect the pump hose at the drum end,
disconnect the hose from the soap dispenser, note that wiring is fastened to the drum at several points and will need to be disconnected. Remove panel from behind control board then
carefully move everything away from the front of the machine, the drum can now be lifted clear.
Forgot to mention unplugging motor but common sense will prevail. ///////////////////////////////
This one comes out through the front.Remove screws behind soap drawer and take off control panel then take out screws at top and bottom of front panel. take seal off door then lift front to remove. the rest you obviously know.
thanks for using Fixya
I presume you mean the inner drum, this is major strip down, remove the top, remove the front panel and the control panel, remove and split the out drum in half, remove the drum pully, refit the nut and hit the spindle with a hammer using the nut to protect the thread, this will force the drum spider out of the bearings, reverse the process to reassemble.
Regards and good luck
Sounds to me like the rear bearing is seized up. Seeing how you describe its been noisy for ages I would say the porblem is the bearing. Its not a easy jub to replace for a novice.The entire tub must be removed and taken apart to replace the rear bearing. To take the case apart its only the front panel with the door that that will come off. there should be a wire with a spring that holds the bellows to the door. remove that and the rest should come apart from the inside. Dont forget to disconect the dor switch.