Gfci what was the 1978 code for gfci if any?

GFCI trips when the current in the line does not = the current in the neutral. This might happen if some of the current is flowing in the ground lead.
Run the machine till it trips, unplug it and measure resistance from line (narrow spade) to ground (round). It should be an open circuit.
Any resistance there indicates a problem in the machine and the reason the breaker is tripping.

This is all I could find for E7 error code:

E7 Loss of 120 VAC power to all power module boards on the system. The system will shut down.

Look for tripped circuit breaker or tripped GFCI outlet. Any outlet wired downstream of GFCI (for example on same circuit as GFCI in bathroom) will lose power if bath GFCI is tripped.

If alarm code E94 is displayed on the control panel, it means the water temperature is too low. If alarm code E94 appears, unplug and plug back in the GFCI/RCD and test the GFCI/RCD to restart the system when the spa water temperature is higher than 39?F (4?C).

Hi Augie, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

First, a couple of notes. You must provide GFCI protection for a fixture (light, fan, etc.) in a shower under any of the following conditions: 1) If the manufacturer specifies this protection in this location (nearly every fan in a shower requires this protection), 2) If the local / state electrical code requires it (the National Electric Code does not have such a requirement) and 3) If the local wiring inspector requires it. You can argue with the inspector if there is no local / state requirement - but is usually not worth the effort.

Next, cautionary notes: Nuisance tripping of GFCI devices have nearly been eliminated in newer fixtures and small motor loads. Some older fluorescent fixtures and larger motor loads may cause some trouble - but that's about it especially if an inspector is requiring the protection (this happens pretty often). If a newer light fixture is tripping a GFCI device - something is wrong. This should be fully checked out before powering it again. There is a very real potential for shock or burns under the right conditions. Use extreme caution here. Maybe a new fixture is in order??

Finally, to your question. Most GFCI outlets have LINE and LOAD terminals. This means that anything connected to the LOAD terminals will have the benefit of GFCI protection. The line terminals however, are not protected.

If you connect the circuit that you do NOT want to have GFCI protection to the wires that will be connected to the LINE terminals, no GFCI protection will be afforded to them.

The circuit that you DO wish to have GFCI protection should be connected to the LOAD terminals. Since you can not secure two wires to a terminal, you will need to connect a short length (8") of insulated wire to each of the line terminal screws (silver and gold screws) and connect the other end to the wires that supply power to this GFCI outlet *and* the wires that will provide non-GFCI protected power to the light fixture through the switch; with wirenuts.

Basically, the jumper from the outlet to the switch can not come from the LOAD terminal - instead it must come before the protection - from the wire that brings "hot" power to the LINE terminal side. The same holds true for the white neutral wire that connects to the fixture; it can not come from the LOAD terminal - it must come from the wire that brings "neutral" power to the LINE terminal of the GFCI outlet.

I hope this helps and good luck! If you have more questions - ask away.

most gfci are 15 amp draws
its quite possible your refer needs 19 or more to start
i would reccommend getting the unit of gfci plug

All fridge and freezers should be plugged into an NON-GFCI protected outlet, since the inital start of the compressor can cause the GFCI to detect a millivolt surge, when the compressor starts, causing the GFCI to trip.

If this is in a kitchen, you should change out the outlet to a non-GFCI outlet BUT only to a single outlet that only has the freezer plugged into.

If it's in a basement, garage, or some other place with a GFCI outlet, you can change out that one outlet to a standard single outlet device of which ONLY the freezer will be plugged into and remain code compliant. You will need to make sure that any other outlets served by that current GFCI outlet stay protected, by installing the GFCI you swap out, and put it in place of the NEXT outlet in the circuit.

By doing that, you will have the first outlet that was the GFCI, now a single outlet NON-GFCI serving the freezer, but the next outlet in the branch circuit gets a GFCI outlet, thus protecting the rest of the circuit, in compliance with the NEC (National Electric Code)

If you need further help with this, please comment back and I'll check back later and provide you more detailed info. Of course, be sure to turn off the breaker to this circuit before making any changes to the outlets, etc.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

It is possible that the extention cord is the problem. Over time wires will heat voltage will drop. Along with the added distance on the code the voltage drop cause a drain and trips the GFCI. Try replacing GFCI and also try opperating without the extension cord.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_87ce33216d7b2148

you need to replace the gfci,the older gfci's interpret these frequencies as a shock hazard and shut off power to the circuit.you can buy @hobart, part#913053, that should solve the trip problem. dont forget to vote thanks monomoy