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There are a few things that can do this... First check the burner top to make sure the holes are not blocked. 2nd, Are the other ignitors sparking? If so then try rotating the slack in the burners left and right - this works sometimes. If not then try placing a screwdriver (you holding the handle only) and touch the burner and lean the screwdriver towards the ignitor... making the spark gap smaller. If you have used the ignition without a burner in place the ignition pack will short out inside it and there will not be a spark until the gap is very small. 3rd, are the ceramic part of the ignitors cracked at the base... take care when washing as they break easy if caught on the cloth. The ignition pack works in pairs so having one work suggests the pair of this one is something in the lead if there is no spark... A huge spillover causing a short or a bad earth... check the burners are firmly in place. There is more but too much detail to post here. Good luck
Before you go to match lighting, have you changed the battery in the ignitor button? If you haven't, I'd start there first. Unscrew the ignitor cap and the battery's Positive Tip (+) will be facing you. Be sure to install the new battery in the same direction.While the battery is out, check for any corrosion that may be present in the battery holder. A Q-Tip & WD40 work well to clean out any corrosion.
To match light the burners ... use a long stick match (also called a hearth match) and carefully guide the match between the grates and under the flame tamers, as close to each burner as possible. Of course, the match should be lit prior to doing this. Turn each burner on individually, as you place the lighted match next to it. Once the burner lights, turn it down to low and move to the next burner and so on, until all the burners you want to use are lit. Then set the flame heights where you want them.
Hope this helped you. Please let me know and Happy Grilling!!
Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.
it is strange that you have no gas and no spark! if you held a match to the burner and turned the burner valve on it would lite di spite a failed ignitor,but for it not to lite, the burner valve[its what the knob attaches too] would have to be blocked[thats rare]or ........i got it .....the knob is broken.thats the only thing the burner valve and the spark ignitor have in common.try a knob from another burner................again.you have spark,because others are working.spark on troubled burner would work if valve blocked at orifice outlet,and if spark failed you would still get gas they work independent of each other,[but in unison].thats why im thinking knob.its the item that works both .when you turn the knob it opens the gas valve and as the gas valve rotates by turning the knob it activates or turns the spark switch so it closes the curcit allowing the electricty to the spark moduel.hey i hope that helps a little. God bless ,tom
replace the electrode that's the wire or pilot tip, it has a sensor built in, when it gets hot it stops automatically. if the electrode is between the front and rear burners, there are small holes on the burners going down on the side of the burner facing the ignition. they need to be clean. try a paper clip and insert the clip in side the holes.
One burner doesn't consistently light. Igniter sparks but not the same as the other - "good" burners spark at top of igniter and moves around to light, "bad" burner sparks toward the bottom and doesn't move much. I can use the burner by lighting with a match and it works fine. Have tried cleaning with a toothbrush without much success
I had a problem in which only one burner refused to light with the electronic ignition, even though the same ignitor (they are shared) would light the rear burner on the same side, and the problem burner would light with a match. On inspection, the spark occurs at a central point and there is a tube which apparently leads gas from each burner to the ignitor. There are two groupings of 3 holes each on the sloping part of each burner, facing toward the ignitor. After lighting both burners (the front one with a match), I saw that the lower group of 3 holes had tiny flames on the burner that worked properly, but not on the other. I carefully cleaned each of these holes with a small pin, and the problem appears to be solved.