My system is a year and a half old. One day, by mistake I flicked the switch off with my foot. When I tried to turn it back on, it only got on for 2-3 seconds, then the red light faded away. I thought it was the fuse. I've put a new fuse, a 3amp and it blew the fuse once again. But this time the fuse was all black, not like the original, the original was yellow and it looked like it wasn't good anymore. I would like to know if my system is damaged for good, or if I still have a chance to save it. I tought maybe it was the fuse that was not strong enough. I would like to know what fuse this system needs, cause im pretty shure the old one was a 3amp. If it's not the fuse can you help me?
Go to Logitech support and check the faq's on your speakers. You must replace with the same fuse and it may be a 3amp slow blow fuse. If so replace with the same fuse or you will just keep blowing them out.
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Sounds like something in the control module. I have 2. One bought used about a year old. Lasted about 3 months and something in the control module or panel died so would not light or power up. I hard wired the blower and Infrared bulbs to manual switches so I can manually turn on and off heat. Have separate switches so can leave the fan blowing after turning off the elements to allow them to cool. The other heater was bought new and laster about a year and a half. Then the thermostat reading worked and fan worked cycling as should but elements would not light. Did a factory reset holding power button while plugging in. That fixed it for a day then back to same. took back off and while trying to trouble shoot voltages on the power supply module the elements started working again. Not sure what the issue but seems to be a definite issue with short lived control modules. To date have not found a resource to buy new control boards or other replacement parts besides bulbs which with the fans seem to be the most durable part of the whole heater.
i have the same problem with mine and it disapperas with a short sharp pull on the throttle out of those revs... however as kmrmike said above im goona pull it apart soon expecting to find something... now i have a constant ticking sound, like a playing card flapping in the spokes of a push bike and it gets louder and through the rev range, iv only heard it in the last day but have felt the fibes of the clicks/flicks through the foot rests.... any ideas there? idle is fine once warm, still has power and i cant find any leaks of any sort... i have a cam chain tensioner to re fit as the old one is buggerd but i cant see how the two issues relate. the clicking/flicking only occurs when in gear and accellerating... hole in the exhaust?
I agree with the mechanic..
I would have someone remove the security system all together from the van...
You dont mention what model van ... or year... so it's hard to discern what to do from this point.
I just flick mine open the rest of the way and keep shooting as iv'e dropped min too many times and keep it in a jacket pocket that gets steppd on and rained on so I'm just banking some money for the day I can't just flick it open again. I sell digital cameras and your almost ready for a new one I dont worry about repairs just will I have enough Jack to buy another one when this one don't go no mor.
i dont know what your timing is relevant to flicking the compression switch and kicking, but get the engine to the compression stroke and then as you go to kick it hard, flick the switch at that moment. timing is everything. i had an old yamaha tt 500 that kicked back so hard my foot slipped off the kick start and kick lever came up and took the skin off my shin.. it took quit a bit of time to get the timing but once i did, it was easy.. hope this helps.
First, NEVER turn the volume all the way up to see what's wrong. If HALF volume doesn't work you're only risking a catastrophic speaker blowout if you should suddenly flick the switch that's causing the problem with FULL volume on.
Look for the MUTE or Volume +/- controls on the remote and indicators.