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Re: electric start gas range
All burners apark at the same time. If they don't light then electrodes (where the spark jumps off of) are either worn out or cracked or there is dirt in the area of the sparking. Clean thoroughly to diagnose this correctly.
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While the coach should be level within 3 deg side to side and 6 front to back it will not keep the refrigerator from lighting on gas or operating on electric. Out side where the gas line comes into the refrigerator valve there is a small brass knob that is used to shutoff gas flow. Verify that the valve is in the open position. Then there is a peep window that will be able to be opened so you can see if the the unit is lighting and burning. Turn the refrigerator on in gas mode and see if it is trying to light. You will hear the spark ticking. It will try this three times before locking out. If it does light but burns and continues ticking as if it is still trying to light, then the board is not sensing the flame and will cause the valve to close. If this is the case you need to check the gap between the igniter tip and the burner tube. It should be approximately 1/8". If the gap is correct then the ignitor/thermocouple may be bad and it could be the lower board. You would have to determine if you want to try the thermocouple and see if it corrects the problem or take it to a reputable repair shop to have them check the board.
This is a common problem. If a pot is allowed to boil over it can gum up the electric igniter. First try to clean the igniter. If you don't feel comfortable call a repair man. If you want to try it on your own here is what you do. It is either not getting gas or the igniter is not working. First turn the burner to start then try to light it with a match or lighter. If it lights you have gas. Next you can try to clean the igniter. https://www.geapplianceparts.com/GEApplianceParts/modelsectionsearch You will have to take it apart. If cleaning it does not fix the problem you can try to change the HARNESS SWITCH item 323. https://www.geapplianceparts.com/GEApplianceParts/modelsectionsearch Hope this helps.
Auto mode is electric 1st then gas. If no 110v is available it tries to light the gas. Do you have gas & is it turned on? You should hear a clicking from the back of the frig. Make sure the air is purged out of the system by lighting your range and let the burners come on for 30 sec or so. You might have to cycle the frig on & off a couple of times after you purge the air. Set the button to "gas only".
Hello, your problem is going to be 1 of 2 problems, 1st did you spill liquid on the switch? if so the switch has shorted out, unplug the appliance for 24 hours to dry the switch out then plug it back in...if after 24 hours it is still clicking you have a bad switch (these are the burner knobs) check each one with a ohms meter, the one that is bad will read infinate on your ohms meter when it is switched off. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment. Good Luck!! Mike
Try lighting the burner manually from the back. Electric must be all the way to off before you can start the gas burner. One locks out the other. If you can light it from the back you have an ignition problem.
What you are referring to as the flame failure device and there is a spark? On gas refrigerators there is generally a thermocouple safety device. This thermocouple shuts off the gas if it does not receive heat from the flame to generate the millivolt current to hold the gas safety valve open. If this thermocouple is bad it will allow the flame to be lit but it will go out as soon as you manually release the depressor that opens the valve. Your supply pressure is in range. If you have to much primary air you will get a flame lift of from the burner. To little primary air and you will have a dirty and lazy flame.