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Kenmore wall oven model#278-4088815 shows F-3 code

Cleansed my wall oven,turned breaker off,pulled elements out finished cleaning,put elements back in.When I closed the door,it locked itself and aproximately 30 sec. and it showed the f-3 code,pushed cancel and it showed f-7 code whats up?

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: unlocking oven door??

Try pressing STOP/CLEAR, then pressing in and holding the door switch plunger for 6 seconds on the upper right hand corner of the door.

Posted on Sep 17, 2008

  • 1214 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn-Air elec oven finished self cleaning, door locked,F3 error

Go here to get the manual -

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%20W10176680.pdf

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Oven locked so I can't shut door/operate oven

Thanks a million, solved the problem like a charm. For those that can't find it, it is on the left side orf the OVEN, not the stove. Once you open the door, you'll find it on the frame's upper left side corner, can't miss it. Good luck

Posted on May 05, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: door locked after shutting down cleaning cycle earlier than

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Frigidaire Gallery

Got a frigidaire gallery pro-series oven model #FGF379WECS the pervious owner had propane gas but i have natural gas. is there any way of switching ithe oven from propane to natural without buying a converter kit?

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore oven keeps beeping, shows F7 on display.

Please, don't replace anything before trying this first! The insulation in the ribbon cable is poor, so the conductors in the cable become crossed. The ribbon cable is actually two ribbons pressed together, and the conductors between the two cables are shorting or becomming crossed. Lift the two cables apart, place a piece of paper between them, fold the edges of the paper over the cable so that it does not slip out, and make sure to shove it all the way down to where it will meet the plastic display panel housing. There, problem solved, and you didn't have to buy new parts.

Posted on Dec 08, 2009

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2 Answers

My oven heating element does not heat, we heard a loud pop and it quit, model 79096112400 kenmore, where do i start checking


Hi Eddie. It sounds like a bad heating element. This is easily replaced and not too expensive at about $60 for a new heating element. First lets verify the heating element is bad. Follows these steps:
1. Find the 50 amp breaker to your oven in your electrical panel and turn the power off. Just to ensure your safety also unplug it from the wall (incase that pesky neighbor wants to see you break dance and decides to turn the breaker back on while you are working on the oven!)
2. Pull stove away from wall or out so that you can access the back panel.
3. Remove the back panel and look through the insulation on the lower 1/3rd of the oven to find the ends and connections to your heating element. There should be one wire on each side of it secured by a screw or slide on connector. At this time you only need to remove the wire on one side of the element. This is for testing and verification purposes.
4. After removing one end of the wire take a multimeter or any continuity tester and put one probe on each end of the heating element connection on the element itself. Right where the wire connects from the one side you removed, and you can place the other lead right on the connection/connector metal part of the element connector. If the heating element is bad as I suspect, you will see that there is an "Open Line" condition or zero continuity which means infinite ohms on an ohm meter. If the element is good you will have continuity and your meter will indicate 20-40 ohms. If you did not damage any electronic controls when the element blew, you will be good to go with a cheap element replacement. Otherwise you may have damaged electronic controls (control board) as well. Check out this link as it will have great information and Youtube videos to show you how to test and replace this element. Good Luck!
http://www.appliance411.com/faq/test-element.shtml
Regards,

Randy

Appliance411 FAQ Testing Range Stove Oven Cooktop Element

Dec 10, 2014 | Ovens

1 Answer

We have a GE electric stove with a JDP 39 oven element which has burned out. How do we get the bottom heating element out to replace it?


UNPLUG the stove or turn off its breaker.

Inside the oven, trace the element back to the rear wall. There should be one screw on each side next to where the element goes through the rear wall. Unscrew that screw on each side and pull the element toward you - it'll come easily, bring its wiring behind it (this is why there must be NO power to the stove!). Detach the wiring from the element... DO NOT allow the wires to pull back through the wall, or you'll have to pull the whole range out to retrieve them.

To install the new element, just reverse that procedure.

Jul 31, 2014 | Ovens

1 Answer

How to replace the oven element in my oven


A lot of the times you can turn the breaker off, remove the racks, locate the element to be removed, and where the element goes into the back wall there are usually two screws or bolts you can take out that hold the element in. you can then pull the element out. Do this slowly and carefully so as not to have the wires be pulled from the connection pins on the element. If that happens you will have to fish the wire out or pull the oven out from the wall to connect it.

Apr 25, 2012 | Ovens

1 Answer

Will not heat after clean cycle, got code but it did not return after being cleared by wife who does not remember code except for the letter F. Element or thermostat how do you tell which is the problem.No...


Hello, welcome to FixYa.

It sounds like the hi-limit safety thermostat may be tripped, that is the component that typically trips/activates during a self clean on many wall ovens & ranges.
Unfortunately you'll need to pull the oven from the cabinet to gain access to it.


If you pull/slide the unit away from the wall and unplug it you can replace the hi-limit...you will likely require two people or if you have a couple of "saw horses" or the like to slide it onto.

It will be a non-reset type hi-limit (based on the model number you posted) so needs to be replaced as I mentioned, doing so will get you back up and cooking in no time.

**Unplug or turn off the breaker of the wall oven first of course...safety first**

Once you remove the panel you will need to look for a switch/thermostat which looks like this...


macmarkus_930.jpg

Replacement part number is typically $30-$40US. # 3879224 and available on-line at vendors such as "appliancepartspros.com" "repairclinic.com" or "searspartsdirect,com" to name a few.


Let me know how you make out. Good luck. I'll watch for your reply and if you need anything further I'll be glad to help in any manner I can.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Sep 09, 2011 | KitchenAid KEBC147 Electric Oven

1 Answer

Maytag electric oven model cwe5800acb. The lower element in the upper oven will not heat up. Can the lower element be replaced without removing the oven from the wall.


Yes, replace the lower element by first turning off the circuit breaker to the oven (110V is still to half of the 220V element circuit even though the oven setting is turned off), then unscrew the two screws holding the element to the back wall of the oven, then pull the element out (may have to tug it a bit to get the connectors through the insulation), and pull the wire connector clips off the element.

Mar 14, 2011 | Maytag CWE5800A Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

My kenmore self cleaning oven , F06 error


first try to turn the breaker off and then back on and see what happens.let me know if this helps and what is the model number?

May 10, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Broiler element out. Need instructions on replacement.


Varies a little by brand, but basically you:
1. Turn off the power. Either at the breaker, or pull out the range/oven and unplug it.
2. open the oven door, remove the racks.
3. where the element enters the back of the range, there should be a screw or two one each side. Remove the screws
4. pull out the element
5. put the new element in and reverse the steps above.

be sure and take your oven model # to the appliane store when you order your new element.

Peace

Mar 02, 2010 | Ovens

2 Answers

There was a poof sound in the oven and the breaker jumped. I put the breaker back on and it jumped again,I put the breaker on and the top element work but the bottom element ..nothing. I think the baking...


Very likely - yes. Turn the breaker off first (there is usually always power to one of the terminals of the element). Remove the element and check for continuity. No continuity - replace.

Oct 13, 2009 | KitchenAid KEBC107 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Put in new wall oven , turned on power and set


my kenmore double oven model 41165 has no power....its hardwired 40 amp....it stopped working when it was cooling down after the slf cleaning cycle..we had a storm and had a minute power outage. Finakky got the door open but it wont turn on at all. Tried the breakers but i stll get no power....no even the bulb.......thanks....

Jun 07, 2009 | Ovens

2 Answers

Oven showing F2 fault


tire, if your model starts with 911. the code stands for an overtemperature condition. I would start with the temp sensor, this is the probe inside the oven cavity, part # 334300. You can ohm it out, should be around 1100 ohms at room temp. This is for model number starting with 911. Catriver..post back.

Apr 21, 2007 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

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