Power surge blowing fuses on amp when car is turned on.
I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with a stereo system. Not every time...but occassionally when I would start the car there would be what seems to me a ''surge'' of power to the amp. At first the subs would just make a few loud booms and then stop and work fine, after a while they ended up blowing. Then it just started to blow the fuse in the amp as soon as I would start the car. I have the correct fuses, a good ground. The power wire is wired through a digital capacitor before the amp and it reads at about 14. I took the stereo out for a while and just recently ran the wires again and hooked up an amp to it and it seemed to do fine, but I'm afraid to hook up subs to it for fear that they will blow. Any advice on why this may be happening?
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Re: Power surge blowing fuses on amp when car is turned...
The voltage regulator in the alternator or the capacitor is malfunctioning. get a multimeter on the battery when u start the car (before the capacitor) if it reads a large surge (something greater than 14 or 15 volts) then u may need a new amp, if not, then test it on the back end of capacitor to the chassie negative, see if u detect spike there.
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For what amp, a Home stereo amp or a car stereo amp? Most car amps will not have internal fuses, but home stereo amps do have internal fuses. You will notice on car audio amps fuses are always plugged into the side of the amps or they have an inline fuse that is on the main power wire into it. You have more than likely blown a Mosfet Power Transistor, very common in car amps, I'm fixing 3 of them right now with that problem. Class "D" Amps seem to have this problem on a regular basis and they are hard to get working again once they blow. You won't even see any evidence of the bad parts inside the amp either, old amps will fill your car with thick smoke and will have obvious damaged parts. Best bet is you will be looking at buying a new amp unless you paid over $500 dollars for it, it's not worth fixing, check the warranty to have it replaced by the manufacturer.
when you say redlight is on it isnt very clear as the power light for the amp is red...right above the cooling fan are 2 indicator lights and if either of them is on your issue can normally be addressed by faulty wiring, you may have wired the speakers at at an ohm load the amp isnt made for which over time will blow the amp if not right away. Also if you dont have inline fuses and such setup i the system then something as simple *** a power surge could have blown the amp...again since the power indicator(red triangle in the center of the amp) is red it could always be that your head units RCA outputs are bad if you have any hooked up at all.
Generally, if you are using the manufactures fuse rating you can use a slightly higher rating and it will resolve the blowing fuses. Fuses supply resistance, if there isn't enough resistance you'll fry the system board in the amplifier. But if you have 25 amp fuses installed, install 30 amp, if you have 30 install 35 amp, 35 install 40. Anything higher will damage the amp.
Hope this helps.
A rare chance, something may be internally wrong with the amp and shorting it out which will blow the fuse.
Use the incorrect wiring of subs to the amp, you'll blow fuses and damage the amp from it turning off consistently. The amp should be running at 2 ohm stereo stable or 4 ohm mono stable.
Very few amps are designed to run at 1 ohm or less. Not to mention the subs can't handle it.
Most likely a bad ground connection, clean up where the ground is connected to the vehicle, check the power wire connections too, if that doesn't help route the ground wire to either the chassis or the battery to get a lot better connection, also possibly if you have the amp on full gain (max power) it may be getting a surge from your vehicle which means turn to down a little or get a capacitor.
First off which fuse is it? The inline fuse from the battery or the amplifiers power supply fuse? Blowing the main fuse from the battery is caused by either the load (your amp) drawing too much current or you have a short to ground somewhere. Maybe there is a tear in the 12Vdc line and it is shorting to the chassis of your car. If the amps power supply fuse is blowing as soon as it turns on your amp has a shorted power supply. This will require internal component changes by a technician. If it is blowing after operation at high volumes I would say change the impedance that the amp is driving. If you are at 2 ohm try to rewire your speakers for four ohm. (go from parallel to series wiring then bridge mono or operate the amp in stereo mode)
hey dennis if you have a standard car amplifier all you need to do is run a wire from the battery post straight from the battery to amp batt+ post, then negative side can also be run straight from battery negative, than the remote post on your amp. you can either utilize the power antenae circuit coming out of the stereo unit or an ignition power from your ignition power fuse box so you don't draw battery power when key is off, please reply back if your stereo unit has rca output and does your amp. have rca connection(rca connections are red and white audio cable style connection).
I assume you are speaking of the car battery, and it gets drained when the ignition is turned off. Your problem is you have connected your system to the wrong power connection. Automobiles have wiring lines that supply power all the time, to other parts of your vehicle. You need to find a power connection, preferably from your fuse box, that stops supplying power when the ignition is turned off. This will also help provide a back-up fuse incase of any other problems you might incur.
The amplifier probably has shorted output transistors.
Disconnect the speakers and RCA cables. Replace the fuses with two 10 amp fuses or a single 20 amp fuse. If the amp blows the fuse when it powers up, the outputs are almost certainly the problem. Don't try it with the two 30 amp fuses. The smaller fuses will provide more protection for the power supply. If the amp powers up with the smaller fuses and they don't blow, check the speakers and the wiring (for shorts to ground or shorts between wires).