My mother turns her furnace down at night, so it has time to really cool down. when she gets up in the morning she turns up the thermostat to about 70 but the furnace has a hard time getting started again, it clicks for about a minute sometimes igniting a flame sometimes not at all (at least an hour) but eventually it will ignite, then it will work ok as long as the furnace is warm. The furnace is a Goodman unsure of model # but it is a downdraft heats about 1800 sq ft
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Turn of the system at the thermostat. If you turn off the blower, assuming you mean at the tstat, there's no need to turn off the pilot. If blower is running and won't stop, even if turned off at tstat, turn off power by any means necessary, and pilot does not need to be turned off. A "standing pilot" is made to stay lit at all times, running or not.
If the fan comes on first, then the flame ignites, it USUALLY indicates there is a problem in the ignition process of the furnace. Most new manufacturers have the adjustable 'time off' sequence for the blower, and most initiate a call for the blower to run within a pre-determined amount of time AFTER a call for heat has been established. ALSO, and this is where I think the problem is, the ignition sequence starts immediately upon a call for heat. If there is a heat ignition failure, it will attempt a restart. USUALLY, they allow 5 restarts within a certain timeframe then the circuit board locks out the heat sequence until it is reset by cycling the power or cycling the thermostat manually.
What I think is happening with yours it that your ignition sequence is experiencing a 'flame failure' upon a call for heat....then it re-establishes the ignition sequence, which takes another 30 to 45 seconds. During this time, the blower automatically starts (because the allotted time has expired) and blows COLD air because of the initial flame failure. In the meantime the ignition sequence establishes a flame on the second or possibly the third try and then you feel the warm air.
IF this is the case, ultimately what will happen is that the furnace will continue to experience 'flame failure' and eventually fail to the point of 'flame failure lockout' and you will have no heat, but the fan could possibly run continuously.
At any rate, without being able to be there to troubleshoot and test components physically, this is just a calculated and reasonably reasonable guess. What it is telling you is that you probably need to contact a reputable, reliable service organization to give your furnace a good going over before it lets you down on a good cooooold night!!!
I hope this helps you understand the basics of what happens within the system and bear in mind, this is a 'generic' sequence and possibly NOT the exact sequence of your particular furnace.
What you are describing is a lock-out condition that occurs after the furnace attempts to establish flame three times (usually) and fails, necessitating manual cycling of the power to 'reset' the circuit board. Its unusual that it is only happening at night unless the night temps drop extremely lower in you location than the daytime temps and the heat loss is greater so the furnace needs to come on more ofter. Hmmm.... Still a bit odd.
I'd have a tendency to inspect the flame rod or flame sensor and its connections back to the 'sensor' spade clip on the circuit board. It is responsible for signalling the control board that the flame has been established so gas can continue to flow feeding the flames. If it does not send the signal in a few short seconds after the gas valve opens, it shuts the system down and it re establishes the cycle again....only up to three times before a lockout.
Your system may not have a separate flame sensor and if not the ignition electrode or hot surface igniter itself performs double duty as the ignition device AND the flame sensor. If so, check the connections and make sure there is no oxidation between the wire and the connector.
I suppose this furnace is fueled by Natural Gas? (Or is it Propane-- Bottled gas?)
Did the Service company leave you any manual, with your new furnace? and I would think there was a warranty, for assuring you (the customer) satisfaction, no? Have you called the people who sold/installed it? What do they say?
If they did leave a manual-- what does it suggest for narrowing down your possible problems? Like: Low Fuel-- Low Voltage- Filter Changes, Fan switch problems- or ignition failure problems?
For a new furnace, someone should be right there to do a start-up for you!
There is a pressure switch near your draft inducer motor that needs to close when draft inducer motor is running. Verify that the switch is closing. If it is not closing, you might have a problem with either the switch itself, or there could be some sort of blockage in your flue. I would start with the switch first. This switch has to "prove" before it will allow anything else to happen. The loud click could be from your switch or your gas valve. If the switch is closing and nothing else is happening, it could be a problem with your gas valve or HSI.
That is usually the flame is dirty and not sensing the flame.
You can clean this by first turning off all the power to the furnace.
Take the door off to burner area and locating the flame sensor it looks like metal rod and it is in the flame of one of the burners.
Once you locate it, take a piece of extra fine steel wool and clean it.
Put door back on and turn power on and furnace should run.
Sounds like a dirty flame sensor.
Also 9 degrees is a large swing to recover. Most specialist will advise no more than a 5 degree set back, otherwise recovery time eliminates any savings you may achieve.
the fan you hear come on at a call for heat is most likely just the inducer motor. the click you hear is probably the relay for the hot surface ignitor which should glow red, then in turn ignite the main burners. your going to have to determine if the ignitor is coming on. if it isnt the ignitor is bad and will need to be replaced. if it comes on and than shuts off after a few seconds the ifc board is probably at fault