Question about Honeywell Electronic Programmable Heat/Cool Thermostat - CT3300A100 Heater

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Frequent cycle times on my home furnace

My forced hot air furnace turns on and off every 10 minutes, (on for 10, off for 10) in order to maintain the temperature, but driving up by gas bills. Yet if I manually turn the thermostat on for 10, and off for 25, I can still maintain the same temp. I am not actually losing heat as fast as I add it. So I'm thinking I have a faulty thermostat??? Also it may be the location of it - it is at the base of the staircase leading upstairs and while that is an inside wall, it is the same wall as the staircase leading up from the basement which is not heated. Could this be wreaking havoc with "perceived" temperature swings sensed by the thermostat? Help!

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  • jason_bruno Nov 26, 2008

    My thermostat is a digital one. Would it still have a heat anticipator, or is that only for mechanical thermostats?

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There are a few things that can cause this problem. The most common is the hole behind the thermostat for the wiring was not covered up when the thermostat was installed. The thermostat will sense the air in the wall space or the basement if it is open to the back of the wall supporting the thermostat. Turn off the power to the air conditioner if attached and the furnace, remove the thermostat from the wall and seal up the wiring hole with duct tape. Insure the thermostat is mounted level when reinstalled. The thermostat should be mounted to sense the return air to the furnace, if the stair well leads upstairs, warm air rises, so keep the upstairs close to the same temperature as down stairs or move the thermostat and install a door to block air movement to the upstairs. There is a heat anticipator on the thermostat, the setting for it is in the installation manuel. For most gas furnaces it is .8. It is very easy to short out the thermostat when making this adjustment, so always have the power off.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

  • rgypsees Nov 26, 2008

    Some digital s have the adjustment in the back of the unit, some are programmable, some are fixed and come with the furnace preset. Another problem that is very common is the high temperature cutout in the furnace. This is a sensor that is sometimes dual purpose. It senses heat when the furnace has started and starts the fan motor. Some also shut the furnace down on high temperature. Some of these devices use full system voltage- 120/240 and some use step down voltage of 24-28. Always turn off all of the voltage to the furnace before taking off the cover to inspect it. The sensor is usually mounted to the inside wall of the furnace where it can sense furnace air temperature. Sometimes these switches stick, usually preventing the fan from coming on. A hand slap on the side of the furnace will sometimes get it to work and will work the whole season, sometimes not.. A common problem with this switch, is not the switch, but a clogged air filter or a clogged evaporator coil or something else preventing proper airflow, such as shutting off registers in unused rooms etc..Good luck, need to go work with a horse...

  • rgypsees Nov 26, 2008

    As an after thought, just turning off the power is not good enough, always test any circuit before you touch it even if you think you have turned off the power, it hurts, been there done that. So be careful!!

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