Once again I woke this morning only to find that the plug sockets and I assume all them had failed during the course of the night. Lights ok. On the fuse board all showed ok but for one switch that was off and when turned to on all was ok. This problem is happening more often and I want to know how do I locate the culprit easily. My theory it is either my fridge freezer or gas boiler, because both run during the night and call for more electricity when either needs to be cooled down or water to be heated.
The age of the electric wiring could be an issue. I suspect a bad or loose connection at the recepticals. If appliance plug- in results in a loose connection,( IE: Plug falls out ). Replace the duplex recepticals as needed. Also check wiring connections to be sure they are tight.
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If its a gas furnace it could be the heat sensor on the pilot flame unit. When the sensor is failing it stops telling the control that the pilot is lit properly and the furnace goes thru another start up sequence. You can try to scrape any flash and dirt off of the heat sensor rod to clean it or remove it and clean or replace the sensor or the pilot assembly. There are plenty or furnace parts on Amazon. The next most likely thing is the relay board is ready to fail that part is ~$80 but you need to get the part number right and be experienced with wiring. WARNING-DANGER B4 you do anything to your furnace Turn Off The POWER first! If there is no plug or switch near by, shut of the circuit breaker! If you don't know what any of this means then you are likely not a good choice to mess with this device Be Safe :)
you have a short circuit.in you machine. Open a see if there are some wire touching the ground of the machine, or touching another cable. Of course you must sure that you are NOT using extension cord. if you are doing that , please DO not doing that, could be the reason for tripping the breaker.
External Hard drives usually draw more current (power) from the PC's USB port and some times even the power being provided by PC's USB port is too less for HDD. In both cases the HDD tries to start but will eventually fail. To cater this you need to buy USB cable with two USB connectors at PC end. Plugging both the connectors to the PC will draw required power from the PC and your HDD will work fine. Also try to connect your HDD to some other PC and see if it works their or not.
something is stuck in it, the humming is letting you know that its stuck. assuming you dont have a disposal turning wrench try this. unplug the unit under the sink. using an old wooden broom handle,, place it inside the disposal , and try and turn the unit. once you free it up, use a flashlight to look inside and remove whatever is jamming it up. once this is done, plug it back in and try it again. if the humming has stopped and it doesn't turn on. at the bottom of the unit is a reset switch. push it in, and try it again ( turn off the power as you rest it)
Black is the AC power into the switch, and the others are the switched power leads out. Take a close look at the switch housing and you might see small markings reading L1 and L2 by the red and blue leads.
To wire the switch, use a pressure connector (wire nut) to connect the black lead to the incoming AC power. On a polarized line cord, where the plug has one prong wider than the other, the hot side is the narrow prong. The neutral side, which connects to the white wires from the lamp sockets, is the wide prong, and the cord usually has a ridge molded in.
The red and blue wires go to the sockets. (This kind of switch is usually used in three-socket lamps, so I assume that's what you have.) The red lead should connect to the black wire from one socket, and the blue lead to the black wires from the other two. The usual sequence is power off, L1 (red) on, L2 (blue) on, L1 and L2 on. So as you turn the switch (or press the button in a push switch) you get one light, then two, then all 3 on.
Make sure all your connections are good and tight with UL approved connectors and there are no exposed bare wires, and you should be good to go.
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in the timer. 2-Set
the time of the day (on the hour, example. 2. Pm) using the top TIME
button. For pm there will be a dot to
the lower right of the 6. 3-Once
the time is set push the MODE button, this will replace the 6pm with a flashing P. 4-Push
the TIME button again to set the time you want the timer to come on. (Remember
for 6pm there will be a dot to the
lower right of the 6. 5-Push
the MODE button once the desired time is set, an E will appear. 6-Push
the TIME button again to select the time you want the timer to go off (example 10.pm). 7-Push
the MODE Button again. The time of day 2. (Pm) will be displayed. If the timer loses power just repeat the above
What you ask is possible but depends where you are in the world as regulations vary. Basic say the feed cable must be large enough to carry the full current of the plug socket and fused accordingly.where you branch off to the light you fit a fused spur unit or slave mains where you can change the fuse capacity and cable size according to light requirements.But electricity is dangerous and best left to qualified tradespersons.
Unfortunately, there are so many things, that are 'Designed to fail'. I know this is not a solution, but if you bear in mind that, sometimes, you do get what you pay for. Just make sure that, if whatever it is, is, under guarantee, be firm, and insist that they give you the service, you have payed for. Good luck with that.