Its most likely your heat sensor. if you get behind your dryer you will see a panel thats held on by screws remove that and you will see the sensor which has two wires going to it, you can just clip those wires and wire them together.and that will bypass the sensor.not the professional way but the cheap way.
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Post the model number for clarity. These tests should only be attempted by competent service personnel. Do you actually have 220 power? Are both legs of circuit hot...at 120v? While dryer is unplugged from power, check the heating coil for continuity. Also check continuity to ground from each end of heater (should not have continuity to ground at both ends). Also there should be power to the heating element when activated.
you need to send the model number,open the door and look around the opening where you put the clothes into the dryer and you'll see the tag with the model number.it will start with 110. or 417.because you have no heat that's why the timer won't advance,when the heat shuts down then the timer advances when the heat comes back on the timer stops moving or advancing,no heat the timer won't move.send the model number
The most likely cause is a bad ignitor part number 279311. It has to glow to open the valve and ignite the gas. You should hear a loud click when you first start the dryer. That tells us there is voltage to the gas valve.
check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.