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Huskylock 560 EDT serger - rolled edge stitch wrong

The serger will do a regular overlock stitch just fine, but will not ''roll'' the rolled edge stitch... just a smaller overlock stitch that sticks out past the edge. The dealer had never done a rolled edge stitch on this machine. I have tried over the years to get it to work, figured it was my lack of serger knowledge - but I stumped the expert!! Bought the machine from a quilter friend 10 yrs ago or so. I did just what the manual said with tensions, settings, left needle only. Dealer said never heard of using left only, just right needle only. Tried it very gently, seemed to not want to go all the way down, so did not force it. Any ideas??!!

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  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: bernina 1300 dc overlocker skipping stitches

Make sure the chain stitch thread is threaded exactly as it should be, make doubly sure the thread comes off the bobbin vertically and runs through all eyes smoothly. Any faults in the threading causes extra tension at the needle despite what the tension is set on.
If this is not the cause then the needle depth and the looper timing needs checking.
Rob

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: I have a white superlock 228 jaguar serger problems with right needle

Couple of things I could think of: tension disks need cleaning, there is a site that tells how to clean them, maybe 2 as I recall. Other thing is it is a much older serger, (I have one I am slowly working on to bring up to working level), so it could be that a tension spring internally has lost its tension. It might need a trip to the repair man if that is the case. Another thing is are you using correct needles for the machine? Have you changed them recently? Even new needles can be bad, so if you have to change three times to triple check it can be worth it.

Posted on Sep 09, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Brother Serger 634d

where can i buy a new thread tree for my 1034d brother overlocker from betty c

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: user guide Overlocker/serger Husquvarna Viking Huskylock 905

Hey if you need a new manual go to this link www.ifixmachines.com and dont forget to put this code (150t) so you can get $1.50 discount. Hope this help.. By the way the manual cost only $10. BYE

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

Zenqi
  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: Need Huskylock 535D all purpose need plate

The parts catalogs show this part as obsolete.

Try Googling the top Husqvarna Viking dealers to find one with spare parts from junker machines. Most dealers have a good supply of used plates.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • 371 Answers

SOURCE: i HAVE LOST MY POWER CORD AND NEED TO BUY A

You can try ebay but be sure to know what you are looking for since a lot of cords are very similiar.

3rd party vendors which might have it:
http://www.pd60.net
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com

contact authorized Husqvarna Viking dealer and they should be able to order one from Husqvarna Viking. A list of dealers close to you can be found at the Husqvarna Viking website - http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us

Good luck.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

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1 Answer

I need help in good tension for rolled hem in empisal 606D overlocker


Your owner's manual should have instructions for rolled hem settings. My Bernina manual has a the following settings:
Medium weight fabric
80/12 Universal needle
3 cones serger thread
Upper looper 3-5
Lower looper 7-9
Left needle (no thread)
Right needle 3-5
Stitch length 1-1.5
Cutting width 2-3
Differential feed N

Can use woolly thread in the upper looper, but the tension may need to be loosened since the woolly nylon thread will stretch.


Make It Handmade Threading Your Serger or Overlocker

...

Dec 19, 2015 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Why does fabric get caugh on the roll hem devise when over locking


this sounds like an overlocker/serger machine you are using? if the fabric is catching on the overlocking tongue it could be a number of factors, have you lifted the top cutting blade out of the way and forgot to put it back into place? That would be my first thought, the top and bottom blade move against each other cutting the fabric. Rolled hemming usually requires the blade to be set on about 2, or middle of its setting range, the stitch finger is pulled back out of the stitching area, top looper thread is loosened off and bottom looper thread is tightened up, resulting in the top looper thread wrapping around the edge of the fabric and pulling the cut edge down under within the seam, forming the rolled hem.

May 13, 2014 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Huskylock 936 will not form a 4-thread overlock stitch


It may be difficult to solve a computer controlled machine with as many options as the 936 serger. Stepper motors control many of the functions. You can check out this video I made 4 years ago to get an idea of where to look.

Nov 19, 2013 | Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 936

1 Answer

How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?


I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.
10_16_2011_3_34_10_am.jpg

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Sep 24, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

When sewing with the brother serger 1034d, loops of thread stick out beyond the fabric-it is not nice and close like it's supposed to be. the settings from left to right are: 4,4,3,3. this is what my...


Can you wind the lower cutting blade to the right to cut less fabric and therefore fill out the stitching? On most sergers the lower blade position can be adjusted sometimes with a little knob or dial. You need to raise the top blade out of the way first, usually you put pressure onto it to release the spring holding it up against the lower blade, then swing it up to do this. Then wind the adjustment on the lower blade and move it to the right to cut less fabric then test serge. Your manual should give you more specific information on this and should be your first 'go to".

I would adjust my looper tensions to suit the fabric and width of the stitch I'm trying to achieve so yes, the settings you've been given are average tensions but its okay to vary these too. From left to right, I'd set 4, 4, 4, 4 and test serge again and see if this pulls the looper threads in against the fabric if moving the blade hasn't tightened up the stitching.

Sergers are more variable than a straight stitch sewing machine so its okay to move tension knobs a bit, just turn each a half number each time you adjust, then test serge and look at the stitch formation. Your needles tension should be fine at 4, leave them alone.

I'd suggest if you can find one, go to a "Getting to know your serger" type class as there is lots of techniques such as seaming on a curve, turning right angles, both inside and outside and making rolled hem edges that are very helpful serger skills to learn along with making adjustments and troubleshooting. Or go to you-tube and search some of these techniques for videos. Also www.sewing.about.com is a great sewing resource and Debbie has pages on sergers/overlockers here too.

When I'm starting a new dressmaking project I will spend 10 mins on the overlocker/serger, changing the thread colour to suit the garment, then test serging and adjusting the stitch tensions to suit the fabric. I have 4 cones of thread each in white, black, beige, grey, pink and pale blue and these threads will give a suitable finish on most fabric colours and prints. Then there is wooly overlocker thread, this is a fluffy thread that you can use for rolled hems as the thread relaxes once stitched and "fills" out the closely stitched edge covering the rolled fabric edge and is another whole area of fun to try out.

Often I'll just use a three thread to neaten the raw edges of a seam I will press open. Or I will assemble a whole knit garment using the four thread stitch, so much faster then stitching seams, then neatening. Jersey knits and sergers are made for each other.

As an aside the D on your machine model would denote "differential feed" too - briefly differential feed is adjusting the amount that the two feed dogs move under the foot and means you can "hold back" the fabric as it is stitched (0.5), or "stretch" it out (1.5 or 2 setting). Really handy for loose weave fabrics that stretch as you serge them, you can compensate using the differential feed setting. And in reverse, you can create a "lettuce" or wavy edge by turning the differential feed up.

I hope that this helps you out with your Brother 1034D and hasn't just confused you. Good luck.

Aug 01, 2011 | Brother 1034D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Do you have a manual, project book or anytrhing that gives information on how to use the features of the 936 surger?


I would suggest that you contact Husqvarna Viking to purchase a manual for your 936 serger, their contact details are here.
http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us/406.htm

You could also get lots of general sewing info from Debbie Cosgrove at http://sewing.about.com/od/sergersoverlock/ss/serger.htm sewing.about.com is a fantastic source of information on sewing techniques, sewing machines, sergers and projects too.

Sergers are quite differernt to a sewing machine and there are plenty purchased, used once or twice, then put away or sold because they are a bit difficult. But like any new skill learnt, taking a class and learning hands on is so much better than trying to figure out from a manual so if you can find a local Husky dealership, I'd enquire about an "intro to serger" type class, well worth the money and time.

Yours will probably do a three thread overlock, 4 thread overlock and rolled hem stitch, these three seams will cover a variety of sewing tasks and applications. You can seam knits and lycra with the 4 thread, and neaten the raw edges of just about all fabrics with a three thread. The rolled hem allows you to do a small covered edge which covers the fabric cut edge wrapping the thread around it closely. Beautiful on very light weight fabric edges like ruffles and frills where you have yards of fabric to neaten, much quicker than turning edge twice and straight stitching it.

There are other techniques with a serger such as sewing stretched elastic onto fabric, sewing over nylon fishing line to give a fluted edge or stitching over a string of beads. These are best done with a special foot for this purpose, elasticator or beading foot. You can also use decorative threads through the loopers to give an attractive finish.

There are several good sewing with a serger books on the market, Singer does one but there are other great ones too. You could always borrow one from the library before committing to buying it.

Jul 07, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I adjust the stitch length on a Janome "My Lock" 234?


Is there a dial on the right above the flywheel? This is where you adjust the stitch length on most sergers. It might be numbered from 0 to 5 or 4.

tally_girl_23.jpg
If it has differential feed, there would be a dial there for this too, possibly under the stitch length knob - it would have numbers like -1, -0.5, 0, 0.5 and 1 on it.

If you are new to sergers/overlockers I highly recommend a class, demonstration or investing in a good book to get you started as they are not like sewing machines and many of the techniques are best demonstrated such as rolled thread edging and flat lock seams.

I've borrowed he Singer book "Sewing with an overlocker", or "Serge with Confidence" by Nancy Zieman from my library but there would be other titles too.

Apr 13, 2011 | Janome 2049LX Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Need Huskylock 535D all purpose need plate


The parts catalogs show this part as obsolete.

Try Googling the top Husqvarna Viking dealers to find one with spare parts from junker machines. Most dealers have a good supply of used plates.

Jul 23, 2009 | Husqvarna Husky 165

4 Answers

Brother Serger 634d


where can i buy a new thread tree for my 1034d brother overlocker from betty c

Oct 30, 2008 | Brother Lay-In Thread Serger Mechanical...

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